I've used on Adam's polish for many years, but am less pleased with recent reformulations. (I miss their old green/orange/white, or even their orange/white, polish lineups.) Any thoughts on their current (blue/white/purple) offerings?That would mostly depend upon the 'type' of paint you are dealing with as well as how 'thick' it is. 'Burn through' is dependent upon some of the factors above as well as the type of machine, amount of downward pressure, pad and product, etc you use.
M105 is affectionately known as rocks in a bottle/sand in a bottle, and is a decently aggressive compound. Not something that I would use as a one and done. It would need to finished down with a finishing polish.
I am not familiar with either of the other two products you listed.
IMO, you can not go wrong with the offerings from Griot's, Meguiar's, Menzerna, or the other top tier brands.
You may also want to look into an AIO/All In One product that will provide correction, polishing and some protection in one product. Blackfire One Step is excellent. 3D speed, Rupes UNO, etc.
I also recommend that anyone doing any serious paint correction utilize a Paint Thickness Gauge (PTG) so you have an idea as to how much clear/paint you are working with.
Hope this helps and keep us posted!
I'm sure Scott will chime-in to correct anything about which I misspeak, but I did this on my black GT500 for years prior to ceramic coating everything. In my experience...@NastyGT500 I am planning on a ceramic coating Job and planning on doing all the steps this next go around with my gt500 (silver), I done some reading but the paint correction stage what to use vs. not use seems to be like pandora box. Luckily silver or maybe my specific car isn’t marrd to bad that I don’t see a lot besides finer swirling. So is it better to start with a light compound and work more agressive?
I’ve only use the meguiars (black bottle) compound on a yellow / Orange disk pad before… I wouldn’t say it helped it did too much if any.
@5.0Black No offense take. No apologies needed. Maybe you’re right the vapor silver hiding more or I need something better? Face Palm. I bought on Cyber Monday pinnacle ( Swirl remover & their polish cream) as I thought it’d be a step better without going too aggressive. Mighta jumped that gun and bought “junk” that ain’t going do squat (is that the case?)Thanks for the information!
I am not familiar with SPTA pads and in doing a quick search I didn’t find that much. What is interesting is that Megs UC should be able to tackle light swirls with something like an LC orange pad. With what I am seeing it leads me to believe one/both of the below:
1. Swirls- It could be that your cars lighter color is masking how deep these swirls are. It could be beyond what Megs UC and/or your pads can do.
2. Pads- Looking at SPTA pads, you own their most aggressive foam pad (yellow) as well as a light polish/wax pad (orange). Could be that your pads are used up/losing performance or it could be pad quality. I don’t mean that last bit rudely, if it came off that way I do sincerely apologize.
How is your pad rotation?
I am curious what Scott has to say on this, but I would say you have the ability to already test “less aggressive” methods. If what you have isn’t working then I don’t think Pinnacle’s swirl remover will do much different. I would try a more aggressive product like Jescars correcting compound or Sonax Cutmax. I think your clear should be fine as the most aggressive product you own is UC.
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It is always good to have good products on hand lol. That being said, I would imagine the swirl remover wouldn't do anything more than UC.@5.0Black No offense take. No apologies needed. Maybe you’re right the vapor silver hiding more or I need something better? Face Palm. I bought on Cyber Monday pinnacle ( Swirl remover & their polish cream) as I thought it’d be a step better without going too aggressive. Mighta jumped that gun and bought “junk” that ain’t going do squat (is that the case?)
The pads I have I’ve only used 1x so I know they’re not worn. I am using HF Bauers 6” DA polisher / sander. Maybe my settings are off? I am too lazy to dig through the garage to get to the Shelby to pull back the cover til springtime.
Besides 1 scratch on the drivers door (it’s not finger nail deep -lighter) I can’t get it out. The rest of the car is pretty good…. If I shine LED across the paint… you’d see the fine swirl marks which I’d say is probably undetected by 90% of the average joe. But I gotta sorta a mild ADD where I can’t leave things alone too.
I have read that one actually! I also have some of his books too, good material for those wanting to take the plunge lol.5.0: as you know, there are so many variables! Pad rotation/speed, downward pressure, amount of section passes, pad type/construction/aggressiveness, but most importantly would be product/chemical/polish/compound choice.
Check this link out, some excellent reading and wisdom from Mike Phillips:
Abrasive Technology - THE most important factor when it comes to polishing paint Anyone that's been to one of our classes, (car and boat), or read anywww.autogeekonline.net
Happy to help! Let us know how it works. Cutmax is good stuff. As long as your other fundamentals are good it should do some work for you.