Rear Hub and Bearing R&R

ShelbyGuy

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This is a job that takes a few specialty tools, and there are a couple of nuances to the job too.

1) Remove knuckle from the car. This will be covered in a seperate write-up.

2) Remove dust shield. On a Cobra, these are 10mm hex head bolts. Ford recommends replacing them, but probably to give it fresh threadlocker. Life is too short for a car with shielding that rattles.

3) Press out the hub. To do this, we need a press (thank you captain obvious), step plates, and a way to support the knuckle. I use the Ford/Rotunda/OTC tool specific for this job. Day one of Auto Mechanics 101 - use the right tool for the job.

BilletFLow supercharger pulley puller used for size comparisson.

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This is a step plate that fits perfectly in the hub
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Pressing out the hub (dont laugh - I know I need more press plates)
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And out it comes.
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4) Take out the giant snap ring. Cheesy snap ring tools need not apply. Getting this guy in and out is the hardest part of the job, in my opinion.

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Here is what we have apart so far:
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5) With another step plate (every press user needs a handful of these little buggers) of the right size, press out the bearing. I'm using the Ford/Rotunda/OTC tool specific to the job of supporting the knuckle.

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And out it comes.
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To replace the bearing and hub, its mostly a reverse of the removal process, but some of the step plates are different.

I'm reusing the parts I just removed because there was nothing wrong with them. Whether the part is new or used, the only difference is you need to lube up a new part. Never press something in dry.

1) Using the proper step plate, press the bearing into the knuckle

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2) Replace the giant snap ring.
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3) With the proper step plate, support the inner race of the bearing
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The step plate sticks up into the bearing far enough that I have to flip it over in order to get the hub into the bearing all the way. Whenever pressing anything together, if you feel resistance, STOP. 12 tons on an aluminum casting can destroy it. Let the press do the work. If you have to hurk on the press to get things together, stop and take a look at things. Chances are something is cockeyed, or you've reached the bottom of the bore.

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4) Replace the dust shield and reinstall on the car.
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Homebrew

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Great write-up. Do you have any idea how I can track down the rotunda tools needed, other than ebay? I have the part numbers for all the tools needed, but I have only been able to find them in kits on ebay. I'm willing to buy the kits if thats what it comes to, but I don't know which kits the tools are in. I've managed to find the kit numbers for four of the tools needed, but still don't know which kits the others are in. If you or anyone else has any insight as to where else I might be able to get the tools, I'd greatly appreciate it.

-Kevin
 

Homebrew

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ShelbyGuy said:
you can order them individually from any otc/spx dealer. i use toolsource.com or etoolcart.com. the ford numbers have been superceded with otc numbers, but the shop manual for 03/04 cars will have the otc numbers.

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. My DVD manuals only appear to have the rotunda part numbers, so I'll have to track down an actual shop manual.


mosconiac said:
Is anyone else getting red x's?

Pictures are showing up for me at the moment. :shrug:
 

QuickV8

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so i need a special tool to change my wheel bearing? is there a way to make a tool that i already have to work?

think autozone would rent the tool out. can u post a picture of the tool?

if someone emails me the pics from the OP post.. i'll host them on my website for free.
 

mu22stang

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Go to video section at fulltiltboogieracing.com. It has everything you need to know.
 

QuickV8

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thanks.

so is there any other parts i need to buy? i have the new axle nut, wheel bearing, a drill press. anything else?

remove brakes, take knuckle off of car, press out old wheel bearing, press in new one. re-install back on car. right?
 

mr.magic

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^bump for I needs to knows as well. Lifted the car for a fuel filter change today and noticed some play in the driver rear.:nonono:

On a vent note!! F**k!, D****t!, s**t!, M***er F***er!,@!*&#@! this "In perfect shape" car I just bought has a ton of problems.

Side note I don't think the previous owner really knew all the problems i'm just VERY attentive to detail.

15/sep-Also discoved today that the cotter pin was missing and the bolt on the knuckle had worked it's way out quite a bit and the end link was litterly hanging on by a thread. WTF!!!!
 
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QuickV8

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^ may just be your axle nut is loose. tighten it. socket size is 1 3/8. get some threadlocker

i bought a new axle nut and put threadlocker on it.. and i still get problems. i also changed my wheel bearing. no noises for awhile..about every 3 weeks maybe..i'll get this noise that sounds like a loud clicking..like the teeth on the spindle are hitting metal or something. when i remove the axle nut completely and re-tighten it..the noise goes away for awhile again. strange as hell.
 

QuickV8

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its easy to change the bearing after u've done it once.

from what i can remember..
-take brakes and rotor off
-goto a autoparts store and rent the tie rod puller to remove the tie rod..but dont get the regular tie rod puller..its the other puller. cant remember the name. get both if u want. remove the tie rod..snaps loose once u tighten the tool u rented. and take the safety clip out of the tie rod first.
-take axle nut off.. then remove 2? big bolts/nuts that hold the knuckle shaft on...
-goto a parts store and buy a new bearing..i got the 30 one
-take teh knuckle to a tire shop and tell them to remove the old one n put new one in. 20-30 bucks.
-reinstall the knucle and the tie rod.. put safety clip back into tie tod
-put threadlocker on and tighten the axle nut.. i cant remember what u torque it to..240? its in this thread i believe. u can rent the big torq wrench at Oriely's.. they have an adapter to make the huge socket fit the torque wrench
-put the rotor and brakes back on.. bleed the brakes.
 
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COBRA_ESQ

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^ may just be your axle nut is loose. tighten it. socket size is 1 3/8. get some threadlocker

i bought a new axle nut and put threadlocker on it.. and i still get problems. i also changed my wheel bearing. no noises for awhile..about every 3 weeks maybe..i'll get this noise that sounds like a loud clicking..like the teeth on the spindle are hitting metal or something. when i remove the axle nut completely and re-tighten it..the noise goes away for awhile again. strange as hell.


The nut is single use compression nut and should not be reused, which is probably it keeps loosening up. I would reinspect the bearing and replace the nut. Be sure you torque to the correct spec, over or under could lead to problems. Skip the thread locker as it can throw off your readings.


These rear wheel bearings are funny things. I had very noticeable free play and grooved the front half of the spindle where the bearing seats, yet no noise, wobble or pull.
 

mr.magic

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[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1CqCFJVKNU"]YouTube - Cobra IRS Hub and Bearing RR[/nomedia]



Ya know as soon as I bought the car and the guy gave me the wheel lock key I said oh shit not another one of these. Just tried to remove the wheel for a quick look and broke ANOTHER one of these stupid keys. No matter how gentle you are this thing will break. Who was the person who designed this device?? I need to find and shoot him in the face!!!!

OK I'm lost! What all do i need for a rear bearing replacement and fix?? 1 Bearing and 1 36mm nut and that's it right minus tools and press of course. When shopping I get a ton of other bearings*TIMKEN inners, outers, sleeve this and upside down sleeve that* and parts that are apparently related to the knuckle and hub which I've never heard of or scene before. Also is there a way I can mic/check the inner hub to see if it's reusable or too worn?
 
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