Rear end feels unstable.

[wkornf]

I bought a bearing from rock Auto and paid to get it pressed in. I also replaced the cross Axis joints which locate the knuckles. lot's of stuff to break for sure.

I wouldn't pay for a new hub / spindle or Ford bearing. that's crazy money!

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[Fordman1994]

The rear hub is twice as much as the front and that makes me cheap? I'm going to spend $430 on two hubs and bearings and you think those are good prices? You can get new knuckles, hubs and bearings for the new irs from ford for $450.

 

[biminiLX]

Yes actually I do.
Think about it big picture—it’s a 17yr old classic, 2 year run, with the only IRS Ford had put in the Mustang for the most part.
How often do you have to service the rear suspension/IRS?
So you’re looking at required maintenance that is reasonable $$$ for the type of vehicle. VERY reasonable prices compared to many other valuable performance cars.
My point is any performance/collectible car is going to cost you. Gotta pay to play.
-J

 

[me32]

Yes actually I do.
Think about it big picture—it’s a 17yr old classic, 2 year run, with the only IRS Ford had put in the Mustang for the most part.
How often do you have to service the rear suspension/IRS?
So you’re looking at required maintenance that is reasonable $$$ for the type of vehicle. VERY reasonable prices compared to many other valuable performance cars.
My point is any performance/collectible car is going to cost you. Gotta pay to play.
-J

Incorrect the irs was ran from 99-04 cobra's only including 2000 R. Improved each year and 03/04 were the same

 

[wkornf]

you're correct, the prices suck because it's rare stuff. still stings your wallet..

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[Fordman1994]

I understand it's an older car and it needs lots of maintenance work. I know once the irs is rebuilt it will last a long time. That's why I'm not going to cheap out on parts. Just crazy how expensive parts are for it. You are right though. They didnt make a lot of irs cars. So parts are rare.

 

[me32]

I understand it's an older car and it needs lots of maintenance work. I know once the irs is rebuilt it will last a long time. That's why I'm not going to cheap out on parts. Just crazy how expensive parts are for it. You are right though. They didnt make a lot of irs cars. So parts are rare.

Yeah its not cheap and parts have actually gone up the last few years because they know of the age people will be replacing parts

 

[52merc]

If the hub is OK, buy a couple of Timken Set 49 bearings off amazon. There are the same as what is on the car from the factory. Find someone with a press. Replace them yourself. Save a bunch of money. Check your cross-axis joints. The OE boots get hard, crack and let all the grease out, then get loose. If the cross-axis joints are good, I would still recommend replacing the boots. Full Tilt Boogie Racing sells nice replacement boots and complete replacement joints. Mine were still good, so I repacked them with synthetic CV joint grease before installing the new boots. My hub flanges were a bit rusty, so I soaked them in Evapo-Rust which does a nice job of removing the rust and leaves a dark gray coating on the steel which helps (won't completely prevent) stop the rust from reforming.

 

[Fordman1994]

I'm definitely doing it myself. Thanks for the info. How do you know if the cross axis joints are bad? My boots are all tore up. Did you clean up those knuckles too? They look like new.

 

[52merc]

Yes, I cleaned everything up best I could. To test the cross-axis joints, mount the joint in a vice and try to rock the knuckle back and forth. If they are bad you will hear it and feel it. I've read somewhere that they don't recommend flushing out all the grease. I assume its hard to make sure you actually get grease back in between all the medal surfaces. I just wiped mine down well to get any grit off, then "repacked" them best I could and installed the new boots. The first boot took me about 10 min to get on. The second boot took me about 2 min. All the rest took me a total of 2 min. There is a bit of a learning curve, but once you get the technique down, they go on real easy. I also had a boot on a half-shaft leaking a little. Turned out to be just leaking between the boot and the shaft so I just cut off the old clamp, repacked the CV with CV grease, and installed a new clamp.

 

[Snk-Byet01]

If the hub is OK, buy a couple of Timken Set 49 bearings off amazon. There are the same as what is on the car from the factory. Find someone with a press. Replace them yourself. Save a bunch of money. Check your cross-axis joints. The OE boots get hard, crack and let all the grease out, then get loose. If the cross-axis joints are good, I would still recommend replacing the boots. Full Tilt Boogie Racing sells nice replacement boots and complete replacement joints. Mine were still good, so I repacked them with synthetic CV joint grease before installing the new boots. My hub flanges were a bit rusty, so I soaked them in Evapo-Rust which does a nice job of removing the rust and leaves a dark gray coating on the steel which helps (won't completely prevent) stop the rust from reforming. View attachment 1562062

^^^^ This. I had to take my hubs to a machine shop to press the bearings out and in. From my experience, it is almost always the driver's side. When you rotate your tires, re-torque the hubs.