Rear control arms?

MachR1

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What are you guys using and how do you like them? Lets hear the good and the bad. I've got about 500hp going through my t56 Magnum and wanted to upgrade the control arms while i've got the rear end out.
 

NewEdge4.6

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i have BBK Rears and to be honest i really do love them, they aren't the best ones on the market but im 100% satisfied with my set
 

blacksheep-1

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So I assume that you will be doing mostly straight line stuff because, as noted in many prior threads, doing solid UCA will not improve, but rather hurt the handling characteristics of our cars.
 

MachR1

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So I assume that you will be doing mostly straight line stuff because, as noted in many prior threads, doing solid UCA will not improve, but rather hurt the handling characteristics of our cars.

Yes just drag racing from time to time. I've heard good things about double adjustable UCA like the ones from steeda. My goal is to avoid wheel hop and stiffen up the rear end.
 

blacksheep-1

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i have stock uppers, i didnt install the uppers

good

Are you suggesting that I don't change the UCA?

not to improve handling

Yes just drag racing from time to time. I've heard good things about double adjustable UCA like the ones from steeda. My goal is to avoid wheel hop and stiffen up the rear end.

then go for it



Well if you are going to go drag racing and the car is dedicated in that direction then the tri 4link can be made to work for that application. Introducing solid (type) ucas to that link system and expecting it to handle, has been well documented to causing things like snap oversteer, (along with limiting suspension travel) which the T4L tends to do anyway. Same thing with a panhard bar, stay away from it in the T4L application, just replace the lower arms and call it a day, to go beyond a T4L and it's short comings requires a significant expenditure ( such as a truck arm, or watts link) to make it handle. Just replace the lowers, mess with the shocks, springs and sway bar and leave it at that.
 

Mattstang04

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I'm using Maximum Motorsports standard rear control arms. The spherical bushings with the stock uppers do help with controlling some of the side to side motion of these cars. They are quality pieces. No regrets.

If you want to lay down some cash do the Maximum Motorsports panhard bar and torque arm. Install both of those and you can go UCA free, reduce a ton of wheel hop and keep the axle centered in the car. That's good for straight lines and curves.
 

61mmstang94

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Some normal non-adjustable lowers from maximum motorsports and the typical adjustable uppers with a factory sway bar and bolt-in factory location single-adjustable qa1 coil overs. It's been good for mid-8s and 16X mph. Goes straight and steady as long as it's not cold out and/or bad track prep.

I could probably stand to upgrade everything in the rear that I'm using for suspension but it's been good for what it is. Maybe one day but I've been happy with it so I've left it alone even though a few more tenths off the ET would be nice.
 

blacksheep-1

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If you want to lay down some cash do the Maximum Motorsports panhard bar and torque arm. Install both of those and you can go UCA free, reduce a ton of wheel hop and keep the axle centered in the car. That's good for straight lines and curves.

This is probably the most expedient way to "fix" the rear suspension issue on these cars, and the torque (or truck) arm will work for both the drags and road courses, but it's an expenditure many will not want to make.
 

jymboslice

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I have griggs adjustable lowers on my 04' and fixed steeda aluminum ones on my 2000. The griggs are just all around badass but the steeda ones work ok.


With ~500rwhp+ i'd try to get spherical bearings, if you can swing it I would get adjustable uppers to, to correct your pinion angle.
 

silvercyanide

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I run MM XD LCA's. They have spherical bearings on both the axle and chassis ends, but the chassis end gets poly inserts to help with NVH. Though personally there's not much NVH by comparison to the old worn out rubber bushings that were in the stockers. You can get an adjustable set too so you can set it for the street and adjust when you hit the strip. The best part about these LCA's is that they advertise them to be "stronger than the bolts that hold them in". MM recommends these for any car launched hard or over 400 RWHP.

If you are wanting to change the UCA's, MM sell some FRPP style ones that are basically stock arms with better quality rubber bushings. They only sell these because they know a stiff poly bushing will only hurt handling and tear up torque boxes. They would prefer you run a panhard bar and torque arm.
 

redfire04gt

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I decided on UPR single adjustable lowers and UPR double adjustable uppers and UPR spherical bushings in the axle housing. I don't have a lot of miles on this setup just a few quick trips around town but I did not notice any additional noise. I was going to do MM lowers only and leave my stock uppers but the bushings in my uppers were bad so I just decided that I could get UPR uppers and lowers for about the same price as the MM lowers.
 

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