my cobra is really fat at idle. It didnt use to be like that. Any ideas????
Thanks in advance!!!!
Thanks in advance!!!!
Really fat at idle
- Thread starter 93svt#981
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You talking really rich? This post makes no sense.
Throwing any codes? I would look at your O2's first, possibly reflash over your tune and see where that leads you.
The car has an awful smell of gas when it is idling and no it's not throwing any codes. If I back in the garage instead of just pulling in and shutting it off it stinks up the house it's so bad. It doesn't make any sense because it seems to run fine. Does the frps control anything at idle?
I blew my FRPS on my last cobra. Car started fine but ran super rich because of the false reading, causing high fuel pressure thus the richness.
Actually, it does.
oke:This is why I like to run wide bands... Get a scanner and start trouble shooting.
Will the frps show up on a scanner even if there is no light on?
That I can't answer. Maybe Bigmoose can answer that? I wonder if your O2's are acting up? Whats done to the car?
Keep us updated.
Keep us updated.
LOL! You must be a young guy.
Fat = rich;-) Opposite of lean... make sense now?
A very old hot rodding term started back in the carburetor days. Still in use in racing circles today.
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Try unplugging the FRPS and see if it changes after a few minutes.
Do you keep a spare in the console? If so put it on and try it.
If not I would get one, even if it's not the problem these go out often enough That I keep a spare one in the console along with a small 7mm wrench.
Sometimes when the diaphragm in the FRPS blows, they will not run and having a spare one could save you a tow.
When the electronics half of it goes, you can usually drive it home by unplugging it.
I knew what it meant. Just asking for clarification like any conditions under which the car acts oddly or something.
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when mine went i got no codes at all. the extensive diag tool the dealer has didn't even pick it up.
1. Check the FRPS
2. Use a handheld (SCT, Diablo) and read your stft b1 & b2. At idle they both should be 1.00 +/- 3%. If one is really rich, it will read .75 or close to it. That is a bad front O2.
Most of the time, neither one will throw a code.
2. Use a handheld (SCT, Diablo) and read your stft b1 & b2. At idle they both should be 1.00 +/- 3%. If one is really rich, it will read .75 or close to it. That is a bad front O2.
Most of the time, neither one will throw a code.
I took the car to Amazon today and Rick was very helpful. The frps is good. The o2 sensors are all over the place. I ordered them and will have them tomorrow. I will update this once I get them installed. Thanks for all the help guys!
nice to get to see everyone yesterday..
your car is so pretty :burnout:
did Rick tell you he is painting his Gen 1 Lighting the same color?
your car is so pretty :burnout:
did Rick tell you he is painting his Gen 1 Lighting the same color?
If the o2 sensor is swinging properly, just not enough or biased to one side, i doubt the computer will pick that up. Usually you would only get a code if the o2 took a total dump and stayed at a fixed voltage.
Good to hear you got this solved!
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