Rattle from transmission/ hard to get in 1st gear

[aespinal24]

About a month and a half ago I got a stage 1 Calimer mt-82, RST clutch,new throwout bearing and my car still has this weird rattle that happens at idle and leaves when I clutch in. Getting I to first gear is also a pain in the ass sometimes and I have to pump the clutch peddle to get it to go in and alot of the times it's still difficult to get in gear, shifting kinda feels like shit too car did the same thing before when i had a spec stage 3 clutch and also had a new throwout bearing and was still on stock tranny have upgraded braided clutch line any input would be greatly appreciated

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[DSG2003Mach1]

Im not too familiar with the hydraulic clutch system on these cars but I'd suspect something to do with that...when you say you have to pump the clutch pedal up that sounds like a leak or air in the system to me

 

[aespinal24]

Yea I have to pump it up like 3-5 times then it might go in 1st gear smoothly, affects other gears too when driving around town but first gear is the worst especially because I'm completely stoped

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[Norm Peterson]

About a month and a half ago I got a stage 1 Calimer mt-82, RST clutch,new throwout bearing and my car still has this weird rattle that happens at idle and leaves when I clutch in.

Sounds like gear rattle between the input shaft gear and the countershaft. When you step on the clutch, the input shaft stops turning along with the clutch disc and the small unsteadiness in engine rpm as each cylinder fires (that you can't eliminate) stops affecting it. The OE-level fix for this is those dual-mass flywheels.

Getting I to first gear is also a pain in the ass sometimes and I have to pump the clutch peddle to get it to go in and alot of the times it's still difficult to get in gear, shifting kinda feels like shit too car did the same thing before when i had a spec stage 3 clutch and also had a new throwout bearing and was still on stock tranny have upgraded braided clutch line any input would be greatly appreciated

Probably an air bubble or two in the clutch line from when you replaced the throwout bearing. Needs further bleeding that somebody here ought to have some tips for doing (I don't).

When you're stopped, the transmission's output shaft is rotating at zero rpm and the transmission's input side cannot be made to match that via the synchros unless you could stall the engine that way, so the 1st gear synchro puts up a fight. Once you're moving, the synchros only have to force the input side of the transmission to match some non-zero output shaft rpm, so as long as the clutch is mostly disengaged the synchros can make the necessary rev match happen without involving nearly as much force. This will still wear the upper-gear synchros a bit faster.


Norm

 

[aespinal24]

Thanks for the help

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