"Quick Help* How to Center Axle with Panhard Bar?

HandsomeRob

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Hey Guys,
I Just installed my MM Panhard Bar and my new Wheels/Tires. I noticed that the passenger side tire is sticking out about 2 inches past the fender and the Driver side is pretty much tucked inside the fender. The entire axle needs to be shifted left towards the driver side just a bit. I want to center the axle per Maximum's instructions but can't figure it out.
I called them earlier today and they said to loosen both lock nuts and turn the Panhard bar. I did so and the Panhard just screws in and out of both threads on both ends. The body nor the axle moved whatsoever.
By the way I'm doing this with the car up in the air. Jack stands are placed underneath the subframe connectors. The axle is at full droop.
I then left one side of the Panhard Bar tight and attempted to tighten the other side hoping it would move the other side over a bit. Still no luck.
Am I missing something here?
 
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blacksheep-1

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No you are not missing anything, you are about to embark on a journey of enlightenment, learning about suspensions
SN95 uses the "triangulated 4 link. Don't use a panhard bar on it. It only adds another arc that will bind the suspension. Save it for the truck (torque) arm installation that will soon follow.
SRSLY, I've been down this road personally.
You can't adjust the bar in "full droop" anyway, the car needs to be set on the ground at ride height, then install the bar into it's bracket. That's the best you can do. If you go twisting on the bar you will not center the rearend, you will only lift one side of the car up, because of the God forsaken built in bind of the upper control arms.
 
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HandsomeRob

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No you are not missing anything, you are about to embark on a journey of enlightenment, learning about suspensions
SN95 uses the "triangulated 4 link. Don't use a panhard bar on it. It only adds another arc that will bind the suspension. Save it for the truck (torque) arm installation that will soon follow.
SRSLY, I've been down this road personally.
You can't adjust the bar in "full droop" anyway, the car needs to be set on the ground at ride height, then install the bar into it's bracket. That's the best you can do. If you go twisting on the bar you will not center the rearend, you will only lift one side of the car up, because of the God forsaken built in bind of the upper control arms.

I totally forgot to mention. I have NO upper control arms installed. I plan on doing a Torque Arm soon.
Here is a pic
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blacksheep-1

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Something has to be holding the top of the rear axle in. I'll hang out for awhile for your response.
 

blacksheep-1

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OK. for now, put one of the upper control arms in place, set the car down flat on the floor. you will not be able to do any meaningful adjustments until all the weight is into the car, but this will get you by. The panhard bar should already be installed when you lower the car. Once the car is on the floor you should be able to twist the bar's tube (like a tie rod end) and it will center the rear for you.
Now, the reason you use 1 UCA is to take the bind out of the rearend. If you picture the two UCA as arcs, then you see that they will "pull" against each other, this is how the factory centers the rear at (this is important) THE ENGINEERED RIDE HEIGHT. The first things us hot rod types do to improve handling is to lower the car, this IMMEDIATELY places those two UCA into opposition to each other. Adding a Panhard bar at this time only adds another COMPETING arc to the cluster that is already there. By removing one of those UCAs you remove this competition for arcs and you can center the rear. Some road race guys even use that, it's called a "poor man's three link" and it works fairly well, but will eventually rip out of the floor.

good so far?
 

HandsomeRob

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Car is on the floor with all it's weight already. I sold the upper control arms so they are gone. Only thing holding up the differential is the lower arms and the Panhard.
 

blacksheep-1

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In short..no. BTW one of the mistakes made is to install the aftermarket (heim jointed) UCA they have absolutely NO give whatsoever and only make the problems worse. The best approach for handling (not drag racing specifically) is to soak the stock UCA in a solvent to actually make them more compliant, then install "stiff" aftermarket lower arms. A common characteristic of the triangulated 4 link is something called "snap oversteer" Basically the rearend is so horribly bound up in the corner that as it tries to unbind itself (and seek center) the car "snaps" to center and the car's rearend steps out on you.
Keep in mind a few rules, in order to keep the suspension working. When setting up the car the car should be on the flattest surface you can find, the car's ride height needs to be set, the (wheelbase) the same on both sides, the correct weight in the car (including driver) and the panhard bar needs to be parralel to the floor (along with the lower control arms). hopefully, (but not with the triangulated 4 link), the suspension should move through it's entire travel with little or no bind at all.
 

HandsomeRob

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I currently have Extreme Duty MM Adjustable LCA's with MM Torque Arm springs. I have no way to get upper control arms. They are gone.
 

blacksheep-1

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Hang on a minute, you DO NOT have the torque arm right? just the lower control arms, if so then yes, you WILL need the UCA to hold the rear in place, I'm sitting here wondering what is holding the rear in the car now? It can't just be sitting there on the lower control arms.

IS the sway bar aftermarket or stock style? If it's aftermarket it might be what is holding the rear in the car, the stockers are not attached to the chassis.
 
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