Questions regarding modding in the right direction …

mineralstangt

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For starters, I’m curious what cold air kit could I add that won’t require the strut tower brace to be removed on my ‘97? I’m hoping to add a few bolts to the car to get started until the time is right to pull the trigger on forced induction. So far, I have under drive pulleys, 3:73’s, Eibach Sportlines, KONI adjustables, Caster Camber plates and a McLeod Street Extreme Clutch on my order list. I’m still researching but wondering, what kind of CAI/RAI would be best because I really don’t want to remove my brace but also do my suspension right on this car? Who makes a good X or H-pipe that will compliment the car’s current deep tone by just deleting the OE mufflers?

Also, what other things could I add for decent power figures without having to tear into the engine just yet? My lady is a great supporter when it comes to car culture and making the car faster, she wants to get it going as badly as I do. We’ve just been discussing how to get the car to 500hp which is where forced induction comes in. I just want to get all of the bolt on mods done first.

On a side note to any of the tech guys, I have this code, P1506: Idle Air Control, causing my check engine light to go off and on. The guy at O’reilly told me I could replace that part for around $40 but also told me I may need to replace my intake/head gaskets, does that sound right?
 
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robvas

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Don't bother - cold air won't do anything and you're going to remove it when you add a blower anyway. Same goes for those under drive pullies

I would buy some long tubes or start working on the suspension. Can't hook for shit on sportlines
 

shurur

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As said above, the CAI will do nothing for you.

This is the na svt (Todd Warren) na mod list. It is from gleanings of mods he posted on the net over the years. I gathered them up and made a recipe which he approved.

NASVT Recipe fixed!!!
NA ~300 RWHP with 96-98 DOHC B-Head 4.6L:
K&N filter
OEM Cams
March damper
March hydraboost and WP pulleys
Long tubes
Hi Flow Cats/Cat Delete mid-pipe
B-Head SRI
90mm LMAF
Tune (canned..more $ for real tuner tune)

350 RWHP:
cams properly degreed.
Tune.

na svt (Todd Warren) has custom cams now and a FB page.
Everything on this list can be ported over to a BB, stroker or BB-stoker at a later date.

Same for a procharger SC, minus the March damper and pulleys.

The 99-01 have the C heads.
There is a separate Newedge forum for them and separate recipe as well.
 
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mineralstangt

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Awesome! This is the info I’m looking for, but as far as the K&N goes, just the filter right? I’m sure AM.com isn’t the one stop shop because all I see from them as far as Longtube/Mid-pipe combo is BBK. Anyone running that combo satisfied? Do I need to worry about a throttle body or MAF? Thanks a bunch guys.
 
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mineralstangt

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Updated: Well, my springs weren’t available at the original time stated and the rep obviously is trying to convince me into Steeda springs so if it is going to take too long to get them in, what’s a good substitute that will help handling and from a stop traction?
 

robvas

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What are the front spring rate of the Steedas? The sportlines are 650lb which are no bueno
 

98 svt

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boost88

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Hey shurur... can you recall any threads on Todd's advice for the SRI? I can't seem to find any. Just a thought going to delete the imrc this winter and have a tune. I know you've gotta cut the runners and the bottom supposedly equally as 1 inch for 1 inch but I was sure on "optimal" length for stock heads and cams

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 

shurur

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Hey shurur... can you recall any threads on Todd's advice for the SRI? I can't seem to find any. Just a thought going to delete the imrc this winter and have a tune. I know you've gotta cut the runners and the bottom supposedly equally as 1 inch for 1 inch but I was sure on "optimal" length for stock heads and cams

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
There are a few threads out there and probably a sticky somewhere.


There are probably instructions on the na svt face book site. Just request to join.


This is his classified ad site.
 
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shurur

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See post #5.
This is where the "recipe" gets nuanced.
 

98 svt

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SRI is good for top end, but does nothing down in the low rpms where the 4.6 needs it most.
 

98 svt

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I thought it started filling out the curve at around 5k rpm on the 96-98?
Sounds about right. 5-6800 isnt where these cars need the oomph though.
I mean I guess if he's just looking to hit a magic # or needs the high-end power then Its gonna be worth the $ for sure.
 

shurur

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Sounds about right. 5-6800 isnt where these cars need the oomph though.
I mean I guess if he's just looking to hit a magic # or needs the high-end power then Its gonna be worth the $ for sure.
Yup...folks always looking for that dyno peak and got nothing in the useful rpms.

Besides torque down low is what gets you out of trouble...or gears that get you in the higher rpms quicker.
 

S. Creit

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What are the front spring rate of the Steedas? The sportlines are 650lb which are no bueno
Especially if this is being used for any kind of street/drag racing. Definitely want a softer spring rate to help the transfer on the launch. Personally I would put my money into suspension/traction over a cold air intake. This will help a ton more.
 

cobracide

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My 2001 was at the wall with all the bolt ons and 4.10 gears with 320hp. To get more, it's either a Centi blower or dig into the engine - ie cams, rebuild ect. Fun as hell to drive, until I drove a 2003. A jump to a low mile 2003/4 cobra was easier and cheaper then in 2007 for $26,500.
 

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