Question about cat-back DIY

Live Wire

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Danny Johnson has a nice video for a cat-back DIY that makes the labor portion of the job easy enough if you don't mind getting under the car jacked that high up. While he didn't show a finished job from the rear end view, he said the Borla stinger kit aligned nicely; for reference, I'm getting the Atak kit.

I'm trying to decide about DIY or just having a muffler shop do it. My concern is the ensuring the portion of the exhaust pipes that can be seen from the rear end are level and aligned. I've seen plenty of exhaust jobs where this is crooked. My question is is this mis-alignment more often a by-product of poor workmanship of the kit itself, or just the challenges of trying to work everything in place laying on your back. Also, I don't have a welder, so I would have to rely on the clamps.

For those that had a shop install it, what is a reasonable rate that I can expect?

Thanks for reading.
 

dazwelding

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These days I would be more worried about taking it to a shop and paying them and they do a sub standard job.
However, if you cannot weld the tailpipes in, the u bolts may cause clearance issues for you. I have the flowmaster cat back. I started out with the u bolts, but the u bolts scraped. Also because of limited clearance with the u bolts and the diff, the mufflers scraped too. I then removed the u bolts and welded in the tailpipes with them pushed up almost against the diff and now I eliminated the scrap. So, without a welder you may need to take it somewhere.
 

P49Y-CY

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i dont think you should consider doing any welding at all; in fact i believe that it voids the warranty with some of the manufacturers' products.

irs cobra catbacks are pretty much the easiest exhaust work you can do on a mustang, so give it a try yourself!
 

Live Wire

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These days I would be more worried about taking it to a shop and paying them and they do a sub standard job.
However, if you cannot weld the tailpipes in, the u bolts may cause clearance issues for you. I have the flowmaster cat back. I started out with the u bolts, but the u bolts scraped. Also because of limited clearance with the u bolts and the diff, the mufflers scraped too. I then removed the u bolts and welded in the tailpipes with them pushed up almost against the diff and now I eliminated the scrap. So, without a welder you may need to take it somewhere.

Hmm, this is the first I am reading of this situation. What u-bolts are you referring too? I assume you're talking about the clamps used to hold two connecting pieces together. How does that cause clearance issues? I think Borla uses accuseal clamps for the Ataks. Is clearance due to sagging of the system with clamps? I guess I'm having trouble visualizing the situation. thanks again
 

Black02GT

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It's mostly due to lining everything up, preferably having a second person and or supporting it before you tighten the clamps. It's amazing how much this can effect how mid-pipes hang too.
 

muscleatsrice

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If you are somewhat mechanically inclined, have basic hand tools and a little bit of patience you can absolutely tackle this job. Like stated above I also have a hard time taking my car anywhere to be worked on, especially exhaust shops. There are great ones out there, but I'm not willing to sift through them at my expense. The quality and workmanship of the kit also plays a huge part if you don't plan on cutting and welding anything. Ive installed a few different brand kits over the years, sometimes they fit great and sometimes they need a little love. I just put the borla stinger catback on my 04, and the fit was awesome. Probably the best fit and finish I've personally worked with.
 

fivelitrecobra

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Installed the Borla ATAK cat-back on a previous Cobra and it wasn't that bad of a job. Started from the cats and worked my way back just snugging the system in place, then made adjustments and torqued everything down. I'm super fussy/OCD so it took a few hours to get everything to my liking. It definitely helps to have a buddy present for a second set of hands and eyes. Borla's quality is pretty good, turned out perfect in the end.

P.S. she gonna be loud lol

rsz_20191101_174323.jpg
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01yellercobra

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I wouldn't take it anywhere and no need to weld anything. When you tighten the clamps make sure they're rotated up.

To align the tail pipes I put a 2x4 on a jack under the "x" portion and put some pressure on it. Then I tightened everything up. When I lowered the jack the pipes were level.
 

Live Wire

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Right on fellas, I'm gonna tackle it myself. Two more questions:

1) I still have stock subframe connectors (I know, I know); is the factory steel of those connectors strong enough to put on jack stands?

2) Would you just lift the rear up high and go to town, or put the front up on rhino ramps, then jack the rear up?
 

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