Project Coyote Notch interior swap IRS CA smog legal
- Thread starter RRRCobraSC281
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Can't wait to see the finished product!
Started to work on the driver side door lock. I think on the SN95 i just used the key lock and transferred it to the fox. The S197 has a bit different key lock so just adjusting the tumbler wasn't gonna do it. So went to the Ford dealership and found that only the Econo Van is the only one with a similiar key lock as the Foxbody. So $90 for the new key lock and about 30 minutes putting the thing together and now I have a key lock that will work with the S197 key.
If it wasn't going to work, plan B would be to just shave the driver side key hole like I did for the passenger side and the trunk.
If it wasn't going to work, plan B would be to just shave the driver side key hole like I did for the passenger side and the trunk.
Earlier I made the lower radiator support. Here's what it looks like. Kinda industrial looking but functional for now.
Also mounted the smog canister.
And started bonding the chopped up fresh air intake for the HVAP. My first go at fiberglass. Turned out better than expected.
Since the S197 HVAP grabbed fresh air through the firewall I had to reconfigure it to grab air from the cowl panel. So I was careful not to mess with the mounting holes, I separated the intake so I could rotate it 90 degrees. Then with the HVAP in position and positioned the opening where I wanted it, I used aluminum duct tape to hold things sort of in position and used Evercoat Kitty hair to bond the 2 parts where they were the closest together. Once the Kitty Hair cured, then the part could be handle. Then with Duct tape on the outside to shape the interior, I used fiberglass to form and seal the interior of the intake and then use more kitty hair to bond the exterior in placed with a lot of texture and crevices. Then use some 1" foam weather sealer from Ace Hardware and this part will be done.
Also mounted the smog canister.
And started bonding the chopped up fresh air intake for the HVAP. My first go at fiberglass. Turned out better than expected.
Since the S197 HVAP grabbed fresh air through the firewall I had to reconfigure it to grab air from the cowl panel. So I was careful not to mess with the mounting holes, I separated the intake so I could rotate it 90 degrees. Then with the HVAP in position and positioned the opening where I wanted it, I used aluminum duct tape to hold things sort of in position and used Evercoat Kitty hair to bond the 2 parts where they were the closest together. Once the Kitty Hair cured, then the part could be handle. Then with Duct tape on the outside to shape the interior, I used fiberglass to form and seal the interior of the intake and then use more kitty hair to bond the exterior in placed with a lot of texture and crevices. Then use some 1" foam weather sealer from Ace Hardware and this part will be done.
Thought about being creative on where to mount the computer. Some have mounted it through the apron, but it just seemed like I was fighting the harness doing this. So I've decided to keep it as natural as I can.
I had to cut this section out to keep the CPU and fuse box from hitting the hood.
I had to cut this section out to keep the CPU and fuse box from hitting the hood.
There was a possibility of getting back my Mach Notch hood back. There was going to be a possibility of a trade for my uncut virgin cobra R hood for the already trimmed cobra R hood for shacker, but it didn't happen. Plus the super bowl kind of took up a day....
Yeah, these are lame excuses. But honestly, mocking up locations for the various components from a car that built on a totally different platform takes extra time. If this was a Termi swap it would have been done in 2 months. I still have to locate the ABS pump and make passages through the frame rails for the fuel lines and brake lines. Then I got a volunteer to come over to fill and sand the engine compartment. At this point then it's ready for paint.
Believe me, I'm anxious to have color on it too. I hate it when my wife refers my project as a "junk car".
Yeah, these are lame excuses. But honestly, mocking up locations for the various components from a car that built on a totally different platform takes extra time. If this was a Termi swap it would have been done in 2 months. I still have to locate the ABS pump and make passages through the frame rails for the fuel lines and brake lines. Then I got a volunteer to come over to fill and sand the engine compartment. At this point then it's ready for paint.
Believe me, I'm anxious to have color on it too. I hate it when my wife refers my project as a "junk car".
Well the car is not at paint yet.... Almost....
Did finish mounting the ABS Pump and also the ECU. Brack lines between the MC and ABS have been bent to work. Hopefully not going to be too crazy reinstalling this once from paint. Also finished fab work for the interior door levers.
Here is a little bit of how I did it.
The cable to the door lever was the limiting factor as to the location of the door lever.
Then I fabricated a bracket and welded a flange nut on the back side.
Here is what it looks like with the door lever attached.
Here is a quick pic of a test fit with a junk door panel. The door lever could be straighten to match the character line and tighten.
Here is the new style striker. I just drilled 2 new holes and then used the same nut bracket that was used on the S197 and welded it to the inner sheet. I over sized the hole to allow for some adjustment.
Here is all that is left to do before the car goes to paint:
1. Remove the Hood hinge cups and wire wheel the sealer off.
2. Cut out hole on driver fender through Scott Rod panel for washer bottle. (I tried to make the S197 bottle work, but sometimes it just not worth the added effort when the stock washer bottle and location works.)
3. Fill and Sand engine compartment.
4. Mount the Cobra R hood and modify hood for Shaker system.
5. Water proof all joints with sealer.
Then it's ready for paint. Weather is kinda sucking at the moment, but still got more to do.
Did finish mounting the ABS Pump and also the ECU. Brack lines between the MC and ABS have been bent to work. Hopefully not going to be too crazy reinstalling this once from paint. Also finished fab work for the interior door levers.
Here is a little bit of how I did it.
The cable to the door lever was the limiting factor as to the location of the door lever.
Then I fabricated a bracket and welded a flange nut on the back side.
Here is what it looks like with the door lever attached.
Here is a quick pic of a test fit with a junk door panel. The door lever could be straighten to match the character line and tighten.
Here is the new style striker. I just drilled 2 new holes and then used the same nut bracket that was used on the S197 and welded it to the inner sheet. I over sized the hole to allow for some adjustment.
Here is all that is left to do before the car goes to paint:
1. Remove the Hood hinge cups and wire wheel the sealer off.
2. Cut out hole on driver fender through Scott Rod panel for washer bottle. (I tried to make the S197 bottle work, but sometimes it just not worth the added effort when the stock washer bottle and location works.)
3. Fill and Sand engine compartment.
4. Mount the Cobra R hood and modify hood for Shaker system.
5. Water proof all joints with sealer.
Then it's ready for paint. Weather is kinda sucking at the moment, but still got more to do.
Finally off to Paint. I'll post pics when they come in from the painter. They say it will be done in 2 weeks. We all know that usually means 3 weeks. Get'r done!
I don't think there is a word to describe how talented you are. You are putting your hands on everything. Fully thought out build.
I agree
I guess it comes from problem solving for the last 24 years. Been there done that, but for the most part being able to visualize from start to finish and to be able to keep your plans going in the right direction. And it helps to be a fabricator by trade and picked up skills as a welder and a machinist for the past 11 years. Like I said before, once I saw Jason Hall's Fox500 I knew it was possible. I appreciate the kind words, but I don't feel like I've done anything extraordinary.
A little under 1 month and 2 weeks to go until D-day.
A little under 1 month and 2 weeks to go until D-day.
Just some update pics.
Getting the doors and rear quarters all straight.
Getting the doors and rear quarters all straight.
It's been awhile since that last update, and not much has been relayed to me as far as progress until today. Finally got first coat of primer in the engine bay. And the ETA was said by the painter "March 30th +/- a couple days". 
Only time will tell.
I thought I was getting the car last weekend, but that obviously isn't happening. And with the final date somewhat revised and sort of set in stone, I've decided to work on the little things like refirbishing the side view mirrors and the rear tail light housing for a spare set. Probably freshen up the quarter windows while i'm at it.
Here's the products I'm using.
After giving them a scrub down, and 1 set was almost thrown away it was so hidious. But with some 80 grit and a lot of time, I was able to sand the ugly out of it.
1st coat of primer
Now after their 1st wet sand, they are ready for a final coat of primer
Only time will tell. I thought I was getting the car last weekend, but that obviously isn't happening. And with the final date somewhat revised and sort of set in stone, I've decided to work on the little things like refirbishing the side view mirrors and the rear tail light housing for a spare set. Probably freshen up the quarter windows while i'm at it.
Here's the products I'm using.
After giving them a scrub down, and 1 set was almost thrown away it was so hidious. But with some 80 grit and a lot of time, I was able to sand the ugly out of it.
1st coat of primer
Now after their 1st wet sand, they are ready for a final coat of primer
Very nice work. Can't wait to see the final product!
Looks good. I've never used SEM stuff before but I bet it's good lol. I want to do the mirrors on my car. The PO painter the mirrors and the tops of the doors and window channel the same color as the car and I like the black look myself.
They did the same thing on my Mach Notch. This SEM trim black goes on great. I definitely recommend it.
Probably would have been fine to just spray the adhesion promoter and the trim black and skip the primer. But I had some sandpaper marks on the rough set and some rock chips on the other.
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