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Procharger and oil all through intake - WITH catch can

Discussion in 'The Blower Bistro' started by 7Lemons, Oct 2, 2020.

  1. 7Lemons

    7Lemons Member Established Member

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    I'm at a loss for what's happening with my PCV system and all the apparent blowby I'm all the sudden getting. I have a '13 w/ P1SC (pullied for about 9-10psi), and I fully realize the Procharger method of capping the passenger side PCV and then routing the driver's side to the intake tube kinda sucks, and is prone to getting some oil in the intake. So I installed a catch can (Bob's separator can - drivers side). It seemed okay for a little while and all the sudden I started smoking on startup and then while accelerating. So I took everything apart and wanted to die at what I found. Oil ALL over the place. All through the intake (see pics) - all over the fender well area where the BPV is. And it looks like spraying on the intake tube somehow??? I've looked at countless posts here trying to find a solid PCV solution with a Procharger, but is there one that just uses breathers, and routes under the car, to avoid the fumes when the heater/vent is on? I had breathers on for a bit, and couldn't stand the stink and the smoke/vapor coming out when sitting in traffic (in addition to the fumes from the offroad pipe/no cats). I don't understand why all the sudden there's a ton of oil everywhere? Maybe the catch can failed?? OR maybe failed ring(s) in the motor is allowing lots of oil through (really hope not)?? I emptied the head unit and found it had almost 6 oz of oil, which is the proper amount, so it doesn't appear to be the head unit leaking its own oil. Any help is greatly appreciated!


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    Last edited: Oct 2, 2020
  2. thelonebean

    thelonebean Just a slow 99 Established Member

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    Looks like you are having a lot of blow by. My recommendation would be getting a moroso catch can ( Moroso Race Oil Catch Can (2) 3/8" NPT Female Bungs 180 Deg Apart (Mount Clamp) | eBay ) and routing both pcv's (drivers and passengers side) to the catch can and let it vent out the top. You will get slight smell in traffic but it is a baffled catch can and is great quality. Before you call it quits on the motor, run both pcvs to this and not back into into your intake. But in the mean time, just wipe up all the oil with a rag and let it sit for a while
     
  3. 7Lemons

    7Lemons Member Established Member

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    Thanks for the reply and recommendation. It's worth a try given the super cheap price and ease of installation. With no vacuum source, it's essentially a dual vent/breather in one can, right? My problem with that is just 2 things: 1. There is no vacuum to actively pull the vapors etc out of the crankcase making the oil nasty (ish) and 2. The fumes, when I just put 2 breathers on in the past...was pretty bad (worse than I thought it'd be). Plus vapors/smoke coming out the hood louvers at a stop. Lol.

    I might very well try it though, as knowing it's impossible for there to be oil in the intake is fantastic peace of mind!

    I'm also thinking I need to do a compression test. I'm really afraid of what I'll find though.

    I wonder what I can use to clean the intake pipes and manifold etc? Just rags? Man that's gonna suck to clean!


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  4. nxhappy

    nxhappy Well-Known Member Established Member

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    way too much oil getting passed the rings. You better do a comp test and leak down. motor could be ****ed.
     
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  5. thelonebean

    thelonebean Just a slow 99 Established Member

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    you are correct in that guess. The catch can is a dual input from poth pcv's and single exhaust out the top. I think what is happening is that at idle, the smoke you are seeing is from the residual oil burning off from the intake manifold or whatever else it is getting on and that is also what you are smelling, and only under throttle is it able to spit out more oil because that's when the pcv valves open cause enough crank case pressure is built up to open the valve and then go through the pcv to your intake. I recommend using either paper towels in the throttle body or a microfiber cloth that you don't mid sacrificing to clean up that oil. But I also recommend cleaning the whole engine by covering any open holes like the throttle body and the intake filter on the procharger with a plastic bag or something and give the whole motor a spray down with the hose or pressure washer if you have one. Make sure the engine is cold obviously before you do so lol
     
  6. 7Lemons

    7Lemons Member Established Member

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    Yeah...that's what I'm afraid of. Seems like a ton of oil. But then again ever since putting the procharger on, it's been an issue. It only now seems worse. Guess I need to dig up/find the compression specs and leak down rate specs. I wouldn't think 9-10psi on this motor would be enough to make an issue given I've taken all the precautions (good tune from Lund, BAP, colder plugs,, even using 93+octane booster, etc). Thanks for the reply.

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  7. DSG2003Mach1

    DSG2003Mach1 Premium Member Premium Member Established Member Single Barrel Sirs

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    I mean different motors but I haven’t found anything that keeps the procharger from pulling oil through the pcv. That amount is definitely concerning, think I’d go straight to the compression test
     
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  8. 7Lemons

    7Lemons Member Established Member

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    Yep that's why I think I'm going to say screw it and decouple it from the intake and use a dual vent breather like mentioned above (cap off the procharger pcv port on inlet). Actually then if i could add a mechanical vacuum pump it's ideal!

    But yeah...straight for the compression test as soon as I can. Dang it. Anyone have quick access to compression and/or leak down specs for this motor?

    As a side note, how do other centri setups do this and not have the same issue as procharger? Just curious...

    Thanks!


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  9. bunits19714

    bunits19714 Active Member Established Member

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    i run breathers open air and have never had a issue on 3 different engines- something is wrong, no smell when the heat is on, some oil residue on the under side of the hood at the end of a summer , but wipes right off with a mild cleaner and a towel.
     
  10. gt347mustang

    gt347mustang Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Never seen a healthy engine push that much oil
     
  11. 7Lemons

    7Lemons Member Established Member

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    Thanks for the reply. I mean I agree it's not terrible, but it depends on how much I'm sitting in traffic, etc. The vapors def exit the crankcase and enter the cabin air, but at this point I'd rather that, than have any chance of blow by.

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  12. 7Lemons

    7Lemons Member Established Member

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    My only hope is that maybe it was building over time and just got that bad eventually. Sadly, you're probably right. Ugghh. I ordered a compression test kit and leak down test kit. I'll be testing this week. Really afraid of what I'm gonna fine. BUT, it was running pretty strong still...

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  13. gt347mustang

    gt347mustang Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Pull the plugs and see what they look like.
     
  14. 7Lemons

    7Lemons Member Established Member

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    Yeah I'm going to hopefully do that later today and I'll post some pics...


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  15. 7Lemons

    7Lemons Member Established Member

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    Ugghhhh :( :( I did a compression test, albeit cold, and here are the results. I didn't want to start it and risk further damage not knowing what's happening (plus it's up on jackstands and ripped apart some so I can't start it right now). Looks like cylinder #8 is toast. This makes me wanna throw up a little.

    #1 - 165psi
    #2 - 172psi
    #3 - 165psi
    #4 - 176psi
    #5 - 175psi
    #6 - 178psi
    #7 - 160psi
    #8 - 35psi

    So I'm wondering what my options are?? My local shop with a guy I trust who's done some work to the car said to try and find an Aluminator, but I can't find one anywhere. Or, do a custom build with a gen 2 longblock.
     
  16. DSG2003Mach1

    DSG2003Mach1 Premium Member Premium Member Established Member Single Barrel Sirs

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    ouch!

    What kind of power are you currently making/do you want to make would determine the next steps.
     
  17. 7Lemons

    7Lemons Member Established Member

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    Well it was making maybe 600whp (according to Lund with the tune and all supporting mods - it was not on a dyno). I'd like something that would be safe up to 700whp, nothing much more than that. I was just going to switch to E85 and return style fuel system before all this happened. :( But I want to avoid this again (obviously), and I understand the gen 2 is a little stronger and can maybe support this kind of power better than the gen 1? IDK
     
  18. BOTTLEFED5

    BOTTLEFED5 booost+spray= me Established Member

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    You can get a new gen3 shortblock cheap from tasca,guys are using that shortblock with gen 2 heads and gen 1 timing components and they are making good power. The gen 3 seems to be holding some good power on a budget

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  19. 7Lemons

    7Lemons Member Established Member

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    Thanks for the reply - yeah I was thinking about this. Also, I found this gen2 1100HP forged shortblock: AMS Racing 1100 HP Rated Forged Ford 5.0L Coyote Short Block

    So I would then run gen 2 heads and my gen 1 timing components, and everything else will bolt up?
     
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  20. Reaper14

    Reaper14 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Yes, should boot right uo even using your own heads. Just main thing is your timing components. Gen 2 short blocl would be right up your alley.

    Vic
     

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