Procharge D1SC upgrade to F-1A-94

[Moaz]

Hello team,
Good day.
Currently, my setup is :
Changed the engine to Ford Racing/Performance Aluminator 9.5:1 compression ratio
For More details,
GEN 2 5.0L COYOTE ALUMINATOR SC CRATE ENGINE
- Ford Performance BOSS 302 Intake Manifold
- Walbro Fuel System (dual pump 1200+ HP)
- Procharge D1SC Stage 02 with Racing BOV ( Pulley 3.4)
- Default Radiator FAN that comes with D1SC
- Default Intercoller as well that comes with D1SC kit. (Plans to upgrade to Race Intercooler)
- ID1000 Injectors
- Meth Snowperformance Stage03 (but not working, disconnected)
- Mishmito Radiator
- BBK Long Headers
- Alum Dirveshaft
- McLeod Clutch Kit RXT
- Manual Gearbox (factory) but with Stage02 Internals.
- Many things in the suspension system, front and rear.

Result of above is : 750 RWHP @ 14 Psi - on MS109 fuel.

Now, my target is to reach 1000 RWHP, so as procharger advised is to upgrade my head unit to F-1A-94 along with Race Intercooler upgrade too.

My questions are:

1- Does my Aluminator will hold up all of this power? (according to engine internals specs)
2- For the transmission, I plan to change to Automatic, do you think it will be good idea?
3- If Yes, which trans swap kit should I go with?
4- If no, is there any upgrades to my existing trans?

 

[slow306stang]

I have done the same upgrade that you're planning on doing(d1sc to f1a-94). Unfortunately, the engine didn't like the power it was making and developed a knock before I could get dyno or track times out of the setup.

The race intercooler is nice but you will still have high IAT's at that power level even with the meth injection hooked up. If you want to really keep the IAT's in check an air to water intercooler with an ice tank is your best bet.

1) Yes and no - With making 1000whp using a supercharger the engine will probably need to make close to 1200hp at the crank. Add in the additional 100hp or so it takes to spin a blower at those levels and that aluminator is taking a beating. My engine was essentially an 11:1 aluminator and it didn't last long at all near 1000whp. I'd look into a sleeved short block with a nice set of valve springs.

2) Yes - It's tough to put down the power in a stick car. The auto is faster and it will be much easier on the drivetrain. I've broken the rear twice in my car but other than that my stock mt82 took a beating with no issues to report. I plan on keeping my car stick shift but I never said that i'm smart LOL.

3) Built 6r80, built 6r80 with 4r200 hub, or turbo 400

4) I have the MT82 with the G-Force gear set done by Ben Calimer. I don't have any real imput on how well the trans is doing because of the said engine failure. I'll let you know how it's holding up once the car is back up and running.

 

[Moaz]

Thanks so much for detailed reply.
First of all, great to hear from someone made the same upgrade
Do you think that I might get the same knock problem as my compression ration is 9.5 not 11, which influence the equation, extremely.

For swapping 6r80, many many disappointing opinions on the forums and pages saying that you will never get it right, you will have issues again and again, and it will be costy as well.
Is there any alternatives, like engines comes with its trans? Or a sequential trany?

Finally, If upgrading the current setup to reach 1000 RWHP or a little bit more will cost X, and to change to Turbo is costing the same X, what do u recommend?