Problems with 65coupe misfire at wot

Kaden Alwazzan

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Make sure you have the correct kind of rocker arm for the valves you are using. The more common "rail" type of rocker needs the valves with extended valve stems.

I don’t have rail type valves so it’s causing problems now. I had sent the heads to a machine shop and they replaced just the damaged valves. Along with all seals and springs. BUT I had no clue screw in studs were required for guide plates so now the heads are on and I’m kinda screwed AND it’s looking like I may have a solid lifter cam and I don’t know cam specs so don’t know the lash adjustments so i am really in a tough spot now. After spending all this time and money
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PaxtonShelby

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Bite the bullet and switch to a hydraulic roller cam with the correct pushrods and a nice set of roller rockers, and eliminate the mistakes of those who have had the motor before you. Bullitt makes great custom grind cams for a fair price. Check them out.

Looks like a sharp car. Hang in there.
 

Kaden Alwazzan

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Bite the bullet and switch to a hydraulic roller cam with the correct pushrods and a nice set of roller rockers, and eliminate the mistakes of those who have had the motor before you. Bullitt makes great custom grind cams for a fair price. Check them out.

Looks like a sharp car. Hang in there.

Btw I also have found out the car has rods and pistons. 60 over and 302 heads I’ve been told a 60 over engine is trash Paper weight because of heat but it didn’t seam to overheat so I’m just going to use the block anyway

And I already spent over $1000 on it for nothing so it’s gotta keep sitting for a while I guess

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PaxtonShelby

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60 over is pushing it for sure in a high performance build, but if you’re not going to push it hard / race it /or build it to make over 350 horses or spin 7k rpm you should be ok.

Where are you located?
 

Kaden Alwazzan

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60 over is pushing it for sure in a high performance build, but if you’re not going to push it hard / race it /or build it to make over 350 horses or spin 7k rpm you should be ok.

I had taken it to 6500 a few times. But no i don’t plan on big horsepower. Just nice cam to sound good maybe 250hp is all I need The heads are d80e that have slightly less compression so hopefully that helps with heat as well



But I had found out not only were the rocker arms causing havoc on the retainers My valve springs were only at 45lbs seat pressure so those were going to cause me problems as well


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PaxtonShelby

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Jeez - stinks you have to deal with shoddy work and parts from others. How’s compression?

What’s the scoop on the rest of the car...trans, brakes, rear housing and gears, exhaust, suspension...
 

Kaden Alwazzan

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Jeez - stinks you have to deal with shoddy work and parts from others. How’s compression?

What’s the scoop on the rest of the car...trans, brakes, rear housing and gears, exhaust, suspension...

Looks to be a 9 inch. Transmission is supposed to be built. Seems to have a stall. It has old air shocks Longtubes Still drum brakes. Clean interior I redid electrical. Installed led lighting for gauges as well as refurbished gauges. Got rid of rattling mufflers Installed a Bluetooth radio. Would’ve just saved the money had I known what’s coming. I maybe have 80 miles on the car since purchase
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Now if only I could find out if these are hydraulic. Unfortunately I put the intake manifold on before even thinking about the lifters

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Papaw

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Those look like hydraulic lifters to me. Hydraulics usually have the wire retainers like in your picture. Solid lifters usually have a more traditional C-clip retainer.
I would guess you have a hydraulic cam.
 

Kaden Alwazzan

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Those look like hydraulic lifters to me. Hydraulics usually have the wire retainers like in your picture. Solid lifters usually have a more traditional C-clip retainer.
I would guess you have a hydraulic cam.

I bolted down the rocker and am not getting any movement. The valve actually lowers and pushrod does not move whatsoever. But I have no clue if hydraulic lifters hold their pressure. It’s been about 6 months since the car ran


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