Problems w/ brakes (am i the only one???)

eddyroxx

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Just installed new brakes after discovering they were worn in a tapered pattern.
the last set i had on there were ebc brakes (bundled w/ rotors, i was on a budget lol) and i remember installing them and having difficulty putting the pin back in. i figured the pads were not the best quality and i was going to change them again soon so didn't make a big deal.
Now, over the weekend i was working on the car and decided to check on the pads, and to no surprise, they were worn down in a tapered pattern. i figured they were getting stuck on the damn pin causing them to not disengage properly. For the record, plenty of brake grease was applied to pin and other contact areas.
Today i just installed some ceramic hawk pads and new pins, figured it was a good idea. i had the same problem putting the pin in! had to use a rubber mallet on the caliper and force the pin in, then hammer the pin in. Before the ebc brakes i had motorcraft stockers and the pin slid in and out effortlessly. Soooooo is that pin issue normal!? everyone i talk to seems to be able to remove that pin with bare hands while i have to use pliers lol do i have to grind down the brake pad where it makes contact w/ the pin?
Also, the worn pad indicator (see pic), could that go on any side of the rotor? the box on the hawk pads has it on the inner side, i installed on the outer side so i could see if it makes contact w/ the rotor if i can't hear it over my exhaust.
heres what my pads look like
IMG_0759.jpg

heres that worn pad indicator clip shown on the inner side of the rotor
IMG_0761.jpg
 

hotcobra03

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Wear indicator goes on inside..the inside will wear before outer pad..


All the pin does is hold pad from falling out..
The clips on pad hold caliper..

Sure you had all rattle clips on and in place
 

SnakeBit

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I like the high temp silicone grease (NAPA brand). I put a spot on the caliper where the bottom edge of the pads contact the caliper (and where ever else there is metal to metal contact). It helps the pad move evenly top to bottom. The pads may still wear weird.

I also use that lube on the TOB Retainer Tube.

And to firm up that pedal, flush your brake fluid.
 

eddyroxx

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Pistons went back in fairly easy, used a c clamp. Rattle clips are in along with the rubber inserts. I'm going to switch pads so wear indicators are on the inner side, and I'll be using my channel locks to compress the Pistons in again, I think that will give me a better feel if I have a piston that's sticking
 

eddyroxx

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so checked out the pads, noticed the wheels don't spin freely when the car is off the ground. does anyone recommend a good caliper rebuild kit?
 

John M

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rock auto has a good one

edit: the brakes didn't feel spongy? I usually gravity bleed and use a pressure bleed a buddy working the brakes and I bleed to see if the fluid coming out is steady
 
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eddyroxx

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brakes feel fine. i have ss lines and get no spongy feel.
when i brake, the car pulls to the left, which was the wheel that didn't spin freely when i had the car on jacks.
weird thing is that it was the passenger pads that had the tapered wear.
going to rebuild both calipers and hopefully that solves everything, i don't know what else it could be.
 

John M

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its either pistons sticking or the sliders, id inspect the pistons really close the smallest burr can hold it up, if you have a buddy to help you take the caliper off and put a piece of wood in between have him work the brake pedal so you can watch the piston work
 

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