Pro tips for a Procharger

[bunits19714]

Just ordered Black D1 procharger with the race intercooler, id 1000's and the rest of the good stuff-:banana: How are these installs- any special tricks or things to watch for or double check that may not be in the instructions- thanks for any tips or advice.

 

[4VFTW]

no real issues for me , the install went as per the instructions. the hardest part was getting the piping adjusted properly. you will have to bend the a/c hardline slightly to clear the intercooler discharge elbow. I dont remember any other issues that werent in the instructions.

 

[slow306stang]

Is your can an 11-12 or 13-14? The front clip will need trimming for the 11-12's with the stage 2 intercooler so it also will with the race intercooler

 

[bobster]

you want to do something different the pcv/fresh air setup than what the instructions say to do. I have both of them venting to a catchcan.

 

[_Snake_]

you want to do something different the pcv/fresh air setup than what the instructions say to do. I have both of them venting to a catchcan.

Agreed. This is my next mod.

.

 

[99.9%stock]

super easy I bought my kit used from a member here I pick it up on a Friday night and started on it Saturday at 10:00 am. Just took my time and 90% of the work was by my self and I started and test drove the car 11:00 pm.
Then to the dyno Sunday

 

[avexhype]

you will have to bend the a/c hardline slightly to clear the intercooler discharge elbow.

Huh?! I thought the point of the Procharger kits was that you didnt have to modify or cut any engine components... If this is true then it defeats the purpose of this kit having that advantage over the Paxton/Vortech Kits.

 

[4VFTW]

Dude, you bend the line slightly by hand , no tools needed. It's not like you have to cut and splice the line with 13 clamps or anytging. You could probably adjust intercooler placement to avoid having to bend it entirely, but it was easier to just tweak the line a bit

 

[bunits19714]

Thanks for the tips guys. How many of you upgraded the OPG's or have built short blocks- I already ask 4VFTW in another post this question. Just trying to get a general census of if the motor will last a couple years at the 10 psi with out them-

 

[DaBigBone]

IMO you need to be prepared for a motor when going FI. I've seen some cars go 50k miles no issues, others blow in 2k miles. All comes down to the tune and how you drive it. OPG's are killed by revving too high, not by making too much power.

 

[03Sssnake]

IMO you need to be prepared for a motor when going FI. I've seen some cars go 50k miles no issues, others blow in 2k miles. All comes down to the tune and how you drive it. OPG's are killed by revving too high, not by making too much power.

I agree on a rainy day fund for any FI car. Jerk is the main killer of OPGs, in other words instantaneous changes in force. No lift/flat foot-shifting, high RPM holeshots, bouncing off the limiter are examples. These forces are only intensified with a power adder like a centrifugal blower etc. I think OPG's and billet crank sprocket along with a safe conservative tune will give you many miles and smiles with a PD or Centrifugal blower. Hell anyone that is going to beat their Mustang like a rented mule should probably consider a set.

 

[Redline8k]

has anyone experienced a loosing of the main crank pulley attachment point. I was told by an installer its the weakest part of the kit...I was wondering if upgrading to and ATI damper would help make a better connection? This guy may be talking out of place but he said a few people have come to his shop about a noise and tighting those bolts fixed the issue.

 

[99.9%stock]

I was all stock for a year(10k) and just swapped out my short block with opg's,rod's and pistons.