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2015+ S550 Mustangs
Interior and Exterior
Power cable for amp.
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<blockquote data-quote="pwt's17" data-source="post: 15645006" data-attributes="member: 185047"><p>I removed the battery box and pushed a wire, cut 'sharp', through the foam separating the firewall from the outside air to cabin air duct. The wire was then passed into the battery box via a hole drilled into a corner of the box. I was using 12ga. wire, but larger should not be a problem. PS. A little caulk or gasket maker where the wire enters the battery box is advised, or a leaky battery would be most unpleasant.</p><p></p><p>I tapped into the rear speakers for audio and used a Pyle PLVHL70 to convert back to pre-amp level. Not the best solution, but didn't know if base head unit had pre-amp out and didn't feel like pulling the unit out anyway. </p><p></p><p>Also, the Pyle converter, which is powered by the same unswitched 12v taken to the amp, will pass the "remote" power ON 12v to the amp when it receives audio from the speaker leads. So, no need to run a ignition On 12v wire.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="pwt's17, post: 15645006, member: 185047"] I removed the battery box and pushed a wire, cut 'sharp', through the foam separating the firewall from the outside air to cabin air duct. The wire was then passed into the battery box via a hole drilled into a corner of the box. I was using 12ga. wire, but larger should not be a problem. PS. A little caulk or gasket maker where the wire enters the battery box is advised, or a leaky battery would be most unpleasant. I tapped into the rear speakers for audio and used a Pyle PLVHL70 to convert back to pre-amp level. Not the best solution, but didn't know if base head unit had pre-amp out and didn't feel like pulling the unit out anyway. Also, the Pyle converter, which is powered by the same unswitched 12v taken to the amp, will pass the "remote" power ON 12v to the amp when it receives audio from the speaker leads. So, no need to run a ignition On 12v wire. [/QUOTE]
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Power cable for amp.
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