Possible Spun Rod Bearing? W/ Video

TRMN8RCRIS

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Alright well before I even got to do my "New Cobra Owner" introduction thread, I believe I have possibly spun a rod bearing, 3 Days into owning my new Termi. :cryying::mj: I know I know...

Here is the story:

Late Saturday night I took it out for a spin and gave it a few hard runs (did not pass 6k RPM) then I noticed the noise. I quickly then pulled over and tried to investigate exactly what it was, I did not get a drop in oil pressure, no strange colors or water in the oil dip stick, and it ran fine with the exception of that horrible noise. I even drove it 30+ miles back home. Next morning I tried to investigate the noise further but could not tell exactly where noise was coming from. I did some searching on here and found out about the dreaded head tick but it doesn't seem like the noise is coming from the valve train. Come Monday I decided to take it to the stealership to see if they can diagnose my problem but all I got was that they did a compression check and I have low compression on cyl #3 by 6%, They wanted me to pay $2200 just for them to pull the motor out and look further into it. I said f*ck that, paid a little over 100 bucks for the diagnostic and took it to a performance shop to see if I can get better luck there. At the performance shop the guy working there first wanted to rule out if it was the supercharger making that noise because thats where we thought the noise was coming from, so we took the belt of the pulley and started up the engine, the noise was still there. He told me it is definitely a bottom end issue, most likely a spun rod bearing. He told me the compression checks they do at the dealerships are done by some electronic device and its not a true compression check and also said 6% is not even enough to matter. With leaving me at a bottom end issue I am now looking into a complete rebuild but told me there are no cobra cranks available. I couldn't believe and decided to so some searching on my own and found all these short blocks for sale. I searched further into these forums and found plenty.

I am now thinking it might not even be a spun rod bearing, I personally think its a burnt exhaust valve, or a broken valve guide. I want to cut open my oil filter so I can eliminate the possibility of it being a spun rod bearing. How would you recommend me going about that without actually getting metal in it when cutting it. I already decided to have my close friends shop take the motor apart and find out exactly what the hell is making that noise. I already started bracing at the possibility of a rebuild. My friends shop works with a machine shop that can take care of all the machining work. If worst comes to the worst.

I would love to go ahead and attack this problem my self but come next week I'll be heading towards California as thats where I am being stationed.

Here is the video I took:

[video=youtube;VUnv8e615Zo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUnv8e615Zo[/video]

I hate being the one that caused this :nonono:, the previous owner took great care of this car, before this issue this car was immaculate! It was garaged and best part was it was right under 25k miles. I was loving the car. This was my ride to California now I have to buy a plane ticket. Oh well. I would love to hear some input from you guys, I know no one will know for sure in till the engine is opened up.

Thanks!
 

xsellr8

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There are a lot if other sounds that can resemble that. It could be an injector, an exhaust leak, but after that I can hear something more. Might be due to the aftermarket lower pulley that loses strength on the crank without the support. Keep us posted. I feel bad for you. Any smoke from the tail pipes?
The motor is still salvageable and the good news is the top end is likely unaffected.
 

01Jes

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I would do a compression check. Something doesn't sound right obviously
 

Blueline

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You have been running it so I would do these following tests:

1. Compression test
2. Leak down test
3. Start the car and let it idle, one by one unplug one injector at a time and see if the noise changes or stops. After no change in the noise, plug the injector back in and move to the next one.
4. Check all of the plugs when you pull them and take a pic of all 8 together.
5. That noise can be lower end, but it sounds kind of fast to be lower end, difficult to tell on the video though.. You could have knocked off a follower on a lash adjuster also.
6. You can pull the cam covers too if none of the upper points have pointed you in any direction.

This sucks so bad, I feel bad for you. Keep us posted alot of great guys on here and they will try to help.
 

MaximumVelocity

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Compression test won't show rod bearing problem. But do one anyway just to check that you didn't toast the typical #7 or 8 piston.

To help ID rod noise, do as suggested earlier, and (engine idling) disconnect one injector or coil at a time. If the noise drops or disappears when doing this, it is a rod issue. Reason: if you stop the flame front (no spark or fuel) from pushing on the piston and rod, the "bearing hammer" goes away.

Good luck.
 

MG0h3

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Sounds upper end to me .....

I agree. Doesnt have the right tone for lower end....but Ive never heard one of these engines with a knock either.

Dropping cylinders as mentioned previously is the best way of diagnosing a cooked rod bearing.

Did the shop use a stethoscope?
 

pharrbear

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piston slap. if op made those high speed passes in 4th gear I can guarantee that he melted a couple of pistons due to detonation.
 

Givens

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Sorry to hear, seems odd that it would tear up so easily with just a few pulls. I highly doubt this was your fault unless your were doing some 5th and 6th gear pulls. I would guess it something that was about to happen anyway you just happen to be behind the wheel at the time. Some real good suggestions to start with here for you.

Do you know who tuned the car or have a dyno sheet for reference ?

Good luck and let us know what your find
 
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Givens

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As far as cutting the oil filter open they make a tool specifically for this, so you don't get all those shaving from cutting it, there kind of expensive for a good one. You might find a performance shop with one. The best place would be an aircraft mechanic, they cut filters on small aircraft all the time to check for metal.
 

hotcobra03

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I didnt listen to video..but is there any change in noise with clutch in or out?

I blew alot of tob's...some made clutch fork rattle and bang on trans sounding like a blown engine
 

TRMN8RCRIS

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Sorry for the late update but I decided to take it to a recommend shop near by, I would of went ahead and done this all my self but I'm on a time crunch and I have no tools here with me what so ever.

I ended up talking to another terminator owner on Saturday night at the local meet and was told it most likely could be my lash adjusters. I'm starting to think its not a bottom end issue either, it just doesn't sound like rod knock and by now I would think my engine would of died. I also don't think its my TOB because it doesn't matter whether the clutch is engaged or disengaged the noise is still there.

It idles just fine, I don't feel any loss in power but then again I didn't push on it after I heard the ticking. The noise doesn't go away when the engine is warm either. I really think its something in the valve train and so does the shop.

It wasn't a 5th to 6th gear pull that caused this either. I did a 2nd to top of 4th gear pull, when I was slowing down is when I heard the noise.

If it is a head/valve train issue, what do you guys recommend I go ahead and change or do while the head is out?

Thanks for the input gents, I'll keep this updated.
 

MalcolmV8

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My guess was highway pulls but you just posted 2nd through 4th so I guess that's not it. I ran my car hard in 09 back to back highway pulls over and over and it started making a ticking sound. Turned out to be my #4 piston scored the cylinder wall and it was a piston slap noise. Good luck and let us know what you find.
 

MG0h3

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Compare to this guys....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqdHxMuujRE

Now that I listen to both, the tone of yours does sound like something heavier than valvetrain.

You should have a more rapid rhythm with piston/rod/crank issues unless multiple parts of the valvetrain are involved.

Any metal in the oil yet?

If you are planning on doing the work, those valve covers need to come off no matter what. Might be worth taking a look see.
 

TRMN8RCRIS

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Hmm it sure does sound similar to piston slap after watching those videos. I'm praying its not, it would be to bad to have to rebuild such a low mileage engine.

I did a little bit of searching around, and read about the whole "why you shouldn't do 5-6th gear pulls on these motors" its too bad, before buying I did some research and read about how stout these engines are with their stock forged internals.

Like I said before, it was after doing a 2nd to 4th gear pull when I noticed the noise.

If it does end up being a burnt piston or spun rod bearing, I want to make sure I do this rebuild right to avoid this again. I'm thinking bore .020 over, aftermarket oversize pistons with lower ring walls, stock rods if I can, and same with the crankshaft with a polish. I want to keep this my daily with some power nothing crazy though. Any suggestions with head work? Should I try to find some revised 05 heads or just mod mine?

Thanks again for the input fellas, the shop will let me know what happened tomorrow, I'll keep you guys posted!
 

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