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2011-2014 Mustangs
Please help me value a 2011 Roush Stage 3 Mustang
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<blockquote data-quote="ldc1955" data-source="post: 15539547" data-attributes="member: 175526"><p>I've been through the fair pricing drill on real Roush Mustangs a few times. The first thing I do is to look at the big *B*y Motors auction site for a variety or recent data points: actual sales prices for roughly similar vehicles that actually sold, maximum bids for roughly similar vehicles that didn't sell--but only where there are a good number of bids and bidders. An auction where two people enter fantasy lowball figures that are obviously $10K below what a car is likely worth are NOT a fair indication of the amount above which a majority of prospective buyers will not pay. It is the upper amount in a meaningful auction with numerous bidders and bids that gets you the latter value. That provides a general space within which to work. Doesn't mean you shouldn't pay a bit more for a car you really want, but then you go in knowing you are probably somewhat above what others would pay you for the same car were you to want to sell it instead of buy it. You can make minor adjustments in value for differences between the car you are interested in and the reference cars you are working with: a lower price for higher miles, higher price for lower miles and the same for things like specific equipment. Cars like the 427R often had generally similar optional Roush equipment packages but a few of those options, like the Big Brakes option, Roush interior, and certain optional wheels could add another $6K-$7K to the original sticker price when new and if those are on the car you are shopping but not on the reference cars you are using for pricing, then you need to add on accordingly. I generally have scaled the current price of the base car to its original list to get a percentage of retained value, then multiply that percentage times the list price of the additional high value options to get a reasonably fair upward adjustment. This should get you in the ballpark and I have found a fair number of sellers whose listed but unrealistic price hasn't drawn a buyer at least open to the logic behind offering a (sometimes significantly) lower price when it is based on recent real-world data for reasonably comparable cars. Your mileage may vary.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ldc1955, post: 15539547, member: 175526"] I've been through the fair pricing drill on real Roush Mustangs a few times. The first thing I do is to look at the big *B*y Motors auction site for a variety or recent data points: actual sales prices for roughly similar vehicles that actually sold, maximum bids for roughly similar vehicles that didn't sell--but only where there are a good number of bids and bidders. An auction where two people enter fantasy lowball figures that are obviously $10K below what a car is likely worth are NOT a fair indication of the amount above which a majority of prospective buyers will not pay. It is the upper amount in a meaningful auction with numerous bidders and bids that gets you the latter value. That provides a general space within which to work. Doesn't mean you shouldn't pay a bit more for a car you really want, but then you go in knowing you are probably somewhat above what others would pay you for the same car were you to want to sell it instead of buy it. You can make minor adjustments in value for differences between the car you are interested in and the reference cars you are working with: a lower price for higher miles, higher price for lower miles and the same for things like specific equipment. Cars like the 427R often had generally similar optional Roush equipment packages but a few of those options, like the Big Brakes option, Roush interior, and certain optional wheels could add another $6K-$7K to the original sticker price when new and if those are on the car you are shopping but not on the reference cars you are using for pricing, then you need to add on accordingly. I generally have scaled the current price of the base car to its original list to get a percentage of retained value, then multiply that percentage times the list price of the additional high value options to get a reasonably fair upward adjustment. This should get you in the ballpark and I have found a fair number of sellers whose listed but unrealistic price hasn't drawn a buyer at least open to the logic behind offering a (sometimes significantly) lower price when it is based on recent real-world data for reasonably comparable cars. Your mileage may vary. [/QUOTE]
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Please help me value a 2011 Roush Stage 3 Mustang
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