Paxton drivability questions

hopony

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I have a 13 m6 lund tuned. Took 4 revisions. We tuned in 90 degree heat of fl summer. Drives great, but when temp drops below 60 sometimes I have random stalling and some surges under part throttle acceleration. I am sure if I called them they could iron that out but I am sure I am not the only one that has issues like that. I figure no 600 hp car will drive just like stock.
 

ajpturbo

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. I figure no 600 hp car will drive just like stock.
I disagree ....it should absolutely drive like stock...sounds like it needs more than 4 revisions...my old setup was dyno tuned by lund and left alot to be desired...im done with dyno tunes..im convinced he was hoping that good enough would be acceptable but there were holes in the tune and trasient fueling and coasting afrs were terrible....stft were at .75 while coasting....slopes and maf were way off...and i needed to pull 8* below 4k to get it to stopp pinging
 
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lovebread

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I disagree ....it should absolutely drive like stock

Pretty much. Stock like until you hit the pedal. Exactly what I thought I wanted.

You definitely feel the Paxton there (the belt going around the head unit), and people will absolutely hear it if you're not idling, but there is no power to ground until about 3.5k which is great for tires.
 

beefcake

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First one that popped up on a google search.
I believe there is a long (current) thread on S197 With issues posted as well.

http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f358/t311676/

2 years old, many revisions since then, staff is 4 times bigger now as well

we can play this game too if you want. I thought we were headed back towards civility.

I have a 13 m6 lund tuned. Took 4 revisions. We tuned in 90 degree heat of fl summer. Drives great, but when temp drops below 60 sometimes I have random stalling and some surges under part throttle acceleration. I am sure if I called them they could iron that out but I am sure I am not the only one that has issues like that. I figure no 600 hp car will drive just like stock.

Yep,

just open up a ticket. There are constantly updated revisons to the tuning. Just as Shaun has updates to his tunes. Jon, Ken, or Jon Jr. will get you set up.
 
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hopony

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I disagree ....it should absolutely drive like stock...sounds like it needs more than 4 revisions...my old setup was dyno tuned by lund and left alot to be desired...im done with dyno tunes..im convinced he was hoping that good enough would be acceptable but there were holes in the tune and trasient fueling and coasting afrs were terrible....stft were at .75 while coasting....slopes and maf were way off...and i needed to pull 8* below 4k to get it to stopp pinging

Pretty much. Stock like until you hit the pedal. Exactly what I thought I wanted.

You definitely feel the Paxton there (the belt going around the head unit), and people will absolutely hear it if you're not idling, but there is no power to ground until about 3.5k which is great for tires.

In 8 months and 12,0000 miles it has stalled 6 times all when temps were 50 to 60 degrees colder than when it was tuned. Same with the part throttle surge. Otherwise it drives just like it did before the blower. If I lived further north I would be more concerned.
 

Shaun@AED

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So, 20 months ago Lund Racing did not have the experience necessary to properly tune a Beefcake Special Paxton but now they do?

Who's playing catchup to whom???
 

Blazer707@TBR

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Pretty much. Stock like until you hit the pedal. Exactly what I thought I wanted.

You definitely feel the Paxton there (the belt going around the head unit), and people will absolutely hear it if you're not idling, but there is no power to ground until about 3.5k which is great for tires.

Man you must be very in tuned with you're car to feel the belt going around the head unit.

My car feels completely stock how it did when it was N/A on shauns tune. Then when you get into boost it is different.
 

ajpturbo

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Thanks finally some actual data about driveability from experience not looking at maf frequency.
Im trying to understand why you are so resistent to the idea that a maf signal is the basis for good tuning and or drivability issues?...you may not feel problems with a poor maf signal but then that would be thanks to the ecu..wouldnt you prefer to correct the hardware issue instead?....its like you dont want to believe that the graphs mean anything.....you would make a good customer...the tune could be all sorts of jacked up but as long as you dont feel it you are satisfied...im starting to think what lund relies upon
 
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beefcake

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So, 20 months ago Lund Racing did not have the experience necessary to properly tune a Beefcake Special Paxton but now they do?

Who's playing catchup to whom???

We all know the startup issues that were a problem with the original programming on the programmable BAP.

You can always have cars that have issues that you just can't diagnose without being there. This again, will be a silly argument to get into. Have you not turned away cars because there was an issue with the car. Have you not done revisions on cars? Have you not had cars that blew engines?

Even Blazers car ran like crap until the MAF was reclocked. That could have easily turned into a "Shaun couldn't tune my car thing." But what did I do. I talked to him about the tube. Getting it the way it should be. And then redirecting him back to you first. I didn't tell him that you couldn't tune the car. I told him if it couldn't be straightened out, we would be willing to help. But, start with the basics, and that's the first thing we always check.

And again. We are in the process of tuning an AED car right now.

We could do this all day.

The point of the thread was drivabilty issues. Our customers cars drive fine, my cars drive fine, my customers you tune drive fine. At the end of the day. It's a silly thread and really hasn't done anything productive other than get us back at each others throat.
 

beefcake

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Im trying to understand why you are so resistent to the idea that a maf signal is the basis for good tuning and or drivability issues?...you may not feel problems with a poor maf signal but then that would be thanks to the ecu..wouldnt you prefer to correct the hardware issue instead?....its like you dont want to believe that the graphs mean anything.....you would make a good customer...the tune could be all sorts of jacked up but as long as you dont feel it you are satisfied...im starting to think what lund relies upon

there is a difference between a "poor" maf signal and a maf signal that is not as good as another.

I think what he is saying, is yes, the "maf signal" is not as good as say a roush. But it's not bad either. It would be different if the car needed hours upon hours upon hours of tuning on every single car. But that's not the case. We can concede that the signal is not "as good" as another kit. But it's still not "bad"

It's like saying perfect lamda on the car is .80. But the car stays around .79. It's not "perfect" but it's not bad either, and you'll never notice it driving.
 

Silver_Coyote

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I have a paxton with driveability issues. I have a good tuner who is willing to work on it with me. It surges/hesitates between 2200-2900rpms and we will re fab a new maf pipe and re tune. The graph on mine looked just as bad if not worse then the other paxton posted. I was there, I saw it, he compared it with a procharger graph and you can see a huge difference. I've learned to drive around the issue and I can go weeks without feeling it just based off of how much throttle I give.

It's not perfect, my tuner knows it's not and wants to make it perfect or as close to perfect as possible. Shaun told me the same thing about paxton not being great with drivability.

Can it be tuned around, or at least hidden so the driver can't feel it? I don't know, I've only driven my car and have had many revisions and dyno time with good progress but not "perfect" and definitely noticeable . But I don't want a band aid, I want to fix the issue.
 

Shaun@AED

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I believe the usefulness of this thread has run it's course and will do my best to not post anymore drama.
I just got off the phone with Terry in an effort to squash everything else.

We both agree the Paxton Maf resolution could be better, but for the majority of our customers it's a non-issue as far as drivability is concerned.
 

beefcake

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I believe the usefulness of this thread has run it's course and will do my best to not post anymore drama.
I just got off the phone with Terry in an effort to squash everything else.

We both agree the Paxton Maf resolution could be better, but for the majority of our customers it's a non-issue as far as drivability is concerned.

Agreed. Of course we love to tune the cars, but I have lots of happy customers with no issues that Shaun has tuned as well. That's probably why I took some offense initially as I have heard of no issues from those customers same as ours.

So, if your doing a Paxton, we can tune it, shaun can tune it. As for the others, who the hell knows. LOL :) You have a couple great options here.
 

truebluedevil02

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If I didn't tell anyone I had a Paxton no one would ever know the car was forced induction. The car drives like stock at any throttle position or RPM. The only thing I will note (can note) is that the car seems ever so slightly sluggish down low (not throttle response) which I figured was just due to the 0 low end from the blower but having the added drag from the Paxton. Maybe that's not it, and it is almost not noticeable. But since I drove the car daily before and after the blower, the subtle change was enough for me to notice. Otherwise, my tune is great and I am very happy with my purchase and tuner.
 

mhyjek

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Nice to see everybody agreeing to disagree. I have lund tune and beefcake special the car drives softer than my previous AED tune NA when not in boost but when you hit the loud pedal the car takes off like a jet. Now when people ask about drivability 1/4 throttle and under perfect a little softer than NA, 3/4- full throttle perfect beast mode. Grey area above 1/4 below 3/4 throttle it can be fine some times other times surge. That is where a clean MAF would fix the situation and I know a person working on a redesign for a solution! So I agree with Both Shaun and Terry you can tune and drive around it but a clean MAF would be for the win!
 

Silver_Coyote

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Nice to see everybody agreeing to disagree. I have lund tune and beefcake special the car drives softer than my previous AED tune NA when not in boost but when you hit the loud pedal the car takes off like a jet. Now when people ask about drivability 1/4 throttle and under perfect a little softer than NA, 3/4- full throttle perfect beast mode. Grey area above 1/4 below 3/4 throttle it can be fine some times other times surge. That is where a clean MAF would fix the situation and I know a person working on a redesign for a solution! So I agree with Both Shaun and Terry you can tune and drive around it but a clean MAF would be for the win!

I believe we are using the same tuner lol I'm sure it will be worked out just fine
 

Blazer707@TBR

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I believe the usefulness of this thread has run it's course and will do my best to not post anymore drama.
I just got off the phone with Terry in an effort to squash everything else.

We both agree the Paxton Maf resolution could be better, but for the majority of our customers it's a non-issue as far as drivability is concerned.

Agreed. Of course we love to tune the cars, but I have lots of happy customers with no issues that Shaun has tuned as well. That's probably why I took some offense initially as I have heard of no issues from those customers same as ours.

So, if your doing a Paxton, we can tune it, shaun can tune it. As for the others, who the hell knows. LOL :) You have a couple great options here.

Good to see everyone squashed, both great vendors and both good at what you do.

Nice to see everybody agreeing to disagree. I have lund tune and beefcake special the car drives softer than my previous AED tune NA when not in boost but when you hit the loud pedal the car takes off like a jet. Now when people ask about drivability 1/4 throttle and under perfect a little softer than NA, 3/4- full throttle perfect beast mode. Grey area above 1/4 below 3/4 throttle it can be fine some times other times surge. That is where a clean MAF would fix the situation and I know a person working on a redesign for a solution! So I agree with Both Shaun and Terry you can tune and drive around it but a clean MAF would be for the win!


What redesign are you talking about? a new 1 size pipe for the MAF sensor?
 

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