paxton 2200sl

Aaron@JPCRacing

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Our kit does require removal of the front sway bar. Typically its not a concern unless you plan on auto crossing or road racing your car.

Typically we charge $2200 for the install on the kit plus tuning. Which includes dropping the oil pan out of the car tig welding the drain bung into the pan.

We do offer out the door pricing at $10,499.99, drop your keys off and pick them up for a turn key turbo setup.
 

beefcake

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what i dont see much is a package deal of a single turbo that comes with everything needed i.e injectors and BAP. it seems these are needed for most any boost application

we have a nice deal with the id1000s, bap and the edp kit

same thing with the on3
 

MRSUPRA

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Whaaaaa? Rods are stronger in compression. Tensile strength is where the rods have problems. Specifically on the exhuast stroke where the valve opens and pushes out the exhuast. W scavenging effects it tries to stretch the rod even harder. Back pressure created from the turbo puts some resistence against the piston as it's slamming to a stop at TDC.
Now to your point, the power coming in early can create cylinder pressure problems w a poor tune. But that cylinder pressure is what causes torque. As rpm increases the cylinder pressure is lower and window for knock also decreases. I think that's what you were meaning?

That was one of the reasons we had to slow our spool down. Full boost by 3200. Problematic for tires lol. But you could also lean into it a little on the freeway and see a few psi. I could see someone surging a turbo to death or knocking the rods out of an engine at 2300 because it was seeing too much boost and load w no rpm change.

I'm not sure what was so hard to understand. Take a turbo car and mash the gas pedal in 5th gear at highway speed- You get full boost at very low RPM(of coarse depending on the turbo size) causing lots of cylinder pressure that can't escape very fast because of the low RPM's. On the other hand, a centri supercharger cannot make full boost until the engine is spinning very fast, allowing cylinder pressure to escape much faster.

You every hear of guys with the 4.6 mustangs with turbo kits say never to floor it on the highway.

With all this said, I still much prefer the power delivery of a turbo kit.
 

CPRsm

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I'm not sure what was so hard to understand.
Because you didn't say what you meant. Rpm is not easier on an engine. It's exponentially harder on an engine. Your first post only eluded to cylinder pressure. At higher rpm a turbo is still easier on parts. You seemed to be touching on two things at once, hence the confusion.
 

gimmie11s

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SMH at this whole thread.

Cant we just sum it up with

** TURBOS ARE BETTER**

**CENTRIS ARE CHEAPER**

How fast do you want to spend?


:)
 

justinsstang

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I'll consider a single turbo kit when you can get them for not much more than the on3 twin. It just seems silly that, Chinese made or not, a kit with two (2) turbos is half the price of what these single kit guys are charging. They are making turbo kits for people with 40k cars and charging an arm and a leg because half of the people that can afford our cars are gullible enough to think it's a fair price. Pipes are pipes. Welds are welds (as long as the person knows what they're doing). When I asked one of these guys for the price to buy piping only with intercooler they wanted 3 grand.
They wonder why I went with a Paxton. I got a full kit with 3k miles on it for $200 more than they wanted for the pipes and intercooler ALONE.

Give me a break lol. Turbo kits aren't worth 8, 7 or even 6 grand plus tuning and fuel, especially if you aren't even building your block, sorry.
 

kona 199

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I'll consider a single turbo kit when you can get them for not much more than the on3 twin. It just seems silly that, Chinese made or not, a kit with two (2) turbos is half the price of what these single kit guys are charging. They are making turbo kits for people with 40k cars and charging an arm and a leg because half of the people that can afford our cars are gullible enough to think it's a fair price. Pipes are pipes. Welds are welds (as long as the person knows what they're doing). When I asked one of these guys for the price to buy piping only with intercooler they wanted 3 grand.
They wonder why I went with a Paxton. I got a full kit with 3k miles on it for $200 more than they wanted for the pipes and intercooler ALONE.

Give me a break lol. Turbo kits aren't worth 8, 7 or even 6 grand plus tuning and fuel, especially if you aren't even building your block, sorry.

i am with that GUY!
 

blackbeast12

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Its a simple formula if you want serious power build a motor go turbo....if you cant build a motor and are on a budget go paxton. there no real reason to get a turbo unless you have a built motor. The stock motor will limit its potential. I have a paxton torque booster set up (10.4lbs of boost) with ( a stock motor), a Tremec xl and 4:10's. The car is "dag nasty " out of the hole and pulls all the way through the gears....very happy with my set up. I beat the piss out of this car because i chose the parts designed to take punishment. And It just keeps coming back for more....a turbo car will be for my next mustang but right now I'm enjoying my Paxton!
 

justinsstang

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Blackbeast, which pulley are you running, and are u on 6 or 8 rib, and what type of exhaust setup are you running. Also, did you feel a giant difference between no torque booster and then with? And 1/4 time lol.
 
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blackbeast12

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Im on beefcake torque booster so 3.33 with waste gate and a tial bov. 6 rib zero belt slip!! Kooks shorty headers 1/78 variety sw 3" x pipe kooks race bullet mufflers to replace resos gt 500 axlebacks. Have'nt run it at the track with the torque booster yet!
 

blackbeast12

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Let me tell u i was down ocean city yesterday everyone thought i had a turbo with the bov and the hard launches. only 1 guy that pulled up next to me knew i had a paxton, and he didn't have one himself!
 

justinsstang

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What did it run before the torque booster?

I've never seen 1/4 mile times on a manual Paxton car, it's always auto cars lol
 
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Kentucky5.0

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Don't be scared of the Paxton - last weekend I ran a 9.99 at 134 in my Paxton powered auto coyote. stock engine. 3.33 pulley. E85. 3730 raceweight. I daily this car atleast 60 miles a day and have been for over 10,000 miles
 

gunstar77

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Don't be scared of the Paxton - last weekend I ran a 9.99 at 134 in my Paxton powered auto coyote. stock engine. 3.33 pulley. E85. 3730 raceweight. I daily this car atleast 60 miles a day and have been for over 10,000 miles

Wow, that is impressive. What kind of suspension set up and tires? Are you on the stock converter?
 

fulanititoo8198

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What did it run before the torque booster?

I've never seen 1/4 mile times on a manual Paxton car, it's always auto cars lol

10.7 here MT82, Tq booster has at least .5 sec more in it, but stock clutch went out. I have a new Mcleod in, but sold my drag radials. Whenever I get to it will probably go slick.
 
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92fiveohfox

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Don't be scared of the Paxton - last weekend I ran a 9.99 at 134 in my Paxton powered auto coyote. stock engine. 3.33 pulley. E85. 3730 raceweight. I daily this car atleast 60 miles a day and have been for over 10,000 miles
3.33 on tq booster or just straight 3.3?? Stock converter? Who tuned it?
 
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Kentucky5.0

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3.33 on tq booster or just straight 3.3?? Stock converter? Who tuned it?

My setup is stock engine with OPGs, Paxton 2200SL, 3.33 pulley, 11.6 wastegate spring, JPC budget E85 return fuel system, ID1000s, E85, stock exhaust w/ off-road x pipe, 3.55 gear, bigs and littles setup on a 275 M/T ET Pro, BMR suspension with 1.5 lowering springs, and a big Circle D 4C which isn't optimal for this setup... would work better with a 2 or 3B according to Lund.

The setup was remotely tuned by Jon Lund II and I couldn't be happier. This car is driven atleast 60 miles a day!

The car has been 9.99 at 134 and atleast 9 or 10 10.0s at 136
 
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