paxton 2200sl

Aaron@JPCRacing

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Dustin's graph is with a large turbine.

With our 76/75 we're in FULL boost by 3500rpm. That means from 3500+ your making a ton of torque, which is going to put you ahead of the paxton car your next to. All while putting far less strain on the engine since it doesn't have to try to overspin a 2200sl to compensate for its lack of boost down low.
 

beefcake

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sorry OP, thought you asked about a Paxton kit..

to answer your question about a Paxton kit, since the thread took a huge turbo derail, lol.

800 rwhp is def doable with e85.

we were daily driving our car with the oil fed version at just over 1000rwhp. going 8.7s, Ronnie at rev went 8.9s with the aluminator and the 6 rib setup with a sticky pulley. wouldn't be the optimal pulley for everyday.

but you should be able to make close to 800 rwhp with a 3.33 on an 8 rib setup or 3.15 and not have to worry about belt slip , issues, etc..

we do 2-3 of these kits a week, and I have 3 satin and 1 polished in stock ready to ship.

there is no need for a wastegate with the built engine as your going to be able to fun full tilt on the smaller pulley and e85.

any questions, let us know, we'll be happy to get you a kit, with injectors, bap tuning, everything you need for a very reasonable price!
 

Angry50

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Dustin's graph is with a large turbine.

With our 76/75 we're in FULL boost by 3500rpm. That means from 3500+ your making a ton of torque, which is going to put you ahead of the paxton car your next to. All while putting far less strain on the engine since it doesn't have to try to overspin a 2200sl to compensate for its lack of boost down low.

when you say less strain does that mean you can safely make more HP with a turbo than a paxton? like a paxtion is safe at 600whp a turbo would be safe at 700?
 

beefcake

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when you say less strain does that mean you can safely make more HP with a turbo than a paxton? like a paxtion is safe at 600whp a turbo would be safe at 700?

a s/c works off of a belt drive, a turbo works off exhaust gas, so you are using some power to rotate the s/c

you are not "straining" the engine by any means, the sl works off the same belt system as all the stock pullies do, and uses the same tensioner
 

Angry50

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a s/c works off of a belt drive, a turbo works off exhaust gas, so you are using some power to rotate the s/c

you are not "straining" the engine by any means, the sl works off the same belt system as all the stock pullies do, and uses the same tensioner

so with a stock coyote engine the level of safe power would be the same?
 

D98GT

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My setup put down over 800 on the 2200SL on a mustang dyno so it's definitely achievable and able to be drove every day.

Novi2200sl w/ 8 rib
3.48 pulley with ATI overdriven balancer
Longtubes
This wasn't on E85 either.


At this power point; I really wish I had a bigger headunit (ysi or oil fed unit) so that I could be more efficient with the boost.
 

CPRsm

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so with a stock coyote engine the level of safe power would be the same?
No not at all. Any belt driven power adder needs to make more at the crank, to show the same rwhp. So to make let's say 700rwhp, a blower needs to make 800 at the crank, a turbo needs to make 750. Just number off the top of my head. In any make or model car, that's why you always see turbos go just a little farther w stock engines.
 

4VFTW

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so with a stock coyote engine the level of safe power would be the same?

no because it takes X amount of crank hp just to turn the blower.... so if it takes 75hp to turn the blower then the turbo motor would be able to make 65 more whp than the blower car while placing the same strain on the internals
 

MRSUPRA

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I believe there is another factor when comparing how much power is safe between a centri and turbo car. A centri blower makes power very late in the power band at high RPM's which is less hard on an engine, compared to a turbo that hits hard with lots of power and torque in the low to mid range RPM's.
 

CPRsm

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Whaaaaa? Rods are stronger in compression. Tensile strength is where the rods have problems. Specifically on the exhuast stroke where the valve opens and pushes out the exhuast. W scavenging effects it tries to stretch the rod even harder. Back pressure created from the turbo puts some resistence against the piston as it's slamming to a stop at TDC.
Now to your point, the power coming in early can create cylinder pressure problems w a poor tune. But that cylinder pressure is what causes torque. As rpm increases the cylinder pressure is lower and window for knock also decreases. I think that's what you were meaning?

That was one of the reasons we had to slow our spool down. Full boost by 3200. Problematic for tires lol. But you could also lean into it a little on the freeway and see a few psi. I could see someone surging a turbo to death or knocking the rods out of an engine at 2300 because it was seeing too much boost and load w no rpm change.
 
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92fiveohfox

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I ran my friend with an on3 kit @ 8 psi vs my tq booster Paxton @ 9.4. Pulled on him. We are going to run again both at same psi soon. It should be close. At 800 rwhp a Paxton will get toasted by s turbo setup but near the stock block limits 650-700, tq booster Paxton and turbo seem to be pretty equal.
 

Aaron@JPCRacing

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You are straining the engine.... thats what happens when you try to spin one of those things to 60000 rpm.

They can take 75+ hp just to spin the thing. How is that not straining?
 

beefcake

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using hp and straining I believe to be 2 different things. there is no extra stress being applied to the crankshaft, as it's still using the factory tensioner

seemed to work great for years for you guys

is that a Paxton logo I see on the fender :)

_400px_JPC_2011_mustang-12.jpg
 
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SCalla1384

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I don't get it. So because it's still a factory tensioner, it's not straining the motor?

You're adding another accessory for testing crank to spin. Nevermind spinning it north of 60k rpm. That is an extra strain on the crank.

If you took out the AC unit, or water pump, wouldn't you agree that now there's less strain? Not to mention, they are not spinning close to 50k or 60k rpm
 

beefcake

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I don't get it. So because it's still a factory tensioner, it's not straining the motor?

You're adding another accessory for testing crank to spin. Nevermind spinning it north of 60k rpm. That is an extra strain on the crank.

If you took out the AC unit, or water pump, wouldn't you agree that now there's less strain? Not to mention, they are not spinning close to 50k or 60k rpm

the tension against the crank does not change,

the "load" on the engine def changes, but that will change with any power adder.

yes, a s/c does take hp too spin, like any accessory, that is a given

View attachment 42105

That's really strange Terry. Because both of these crankshafts didn't come out of turbo cars.

so were saying turbo engines never break cranks lol

let me go search for 2 pictures of engines the broke with a turbo on it.......

FYI, if someone is looking for a turbo kit. even though this is a person asking about a Paxton

we have phenomenal deals on the edp and on3 kits

:)
 

Angry50

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what i dont see much is a package deal of a single turbo that comes with everything needed i.e injectors and BAP. it seems these are needed for most any boost application
 

Aaron@JPCRacing

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I'm sitting at my desk trying to think of Turbo Coyotes with broken cranks. But there are none.

Angry50, we do offer a complete package deal. $7799 + ship for our turbo kit with ID1000's and a BAP.
 

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