Before I go any farther, this write up is solely intended for people that go to the track and have to drain out their fuel when they get there or before they leave to drive home. I also completely understand that this idea is more than over thought and when it comes down to it... it's really not that hard to jump the relay pins with a jumper wire.
For the past three years, I have gone to MIR and one of our own has asked me every year "which pins do I need to jump to turn on the pumps"?
Well Jack...... This one is for you.
I started off with a stock Ford relay:
I then opened up the relay and gutted out every thing that I would not need:
I soldered two wires onto the relay side terminals:
Followed up by some heat shrink:
I then took the relay cap and heated up a razor blade (held by vise grips) with a torch to cut out a hole for the rocker switch:
Install the cap back on the relay base with the wires sticking through the hole:
Solder the wires onto the rocker switch:
Then install the switch into the relay cap:
Now, onto the truck.
Remove the lid from the CJB (Central Junction Box/fuse panel):
Remove all of the relay's from the CJB:
Use a pair of pliers to remove the red skeleton that locks in the wire pins:
Around the edge of the CJB there are a few tabs that you need to depress in order to remove the CJB from the base that bolts to the fender well. Once you figure out how to release the tabs, pull the side relay block off the CJB and then pull the CJB up till it is free:
Now you need to remove the bottom cover:
There are release tabs all around the bottom cover:
Just push the tabs in towards the center of the CJB and pull the cover off:
Now you need to pull fuse F1.10 (20amp) out. This will kill all of the power to the two wires that you are going to be remove from the CJB:
Next you need to release the small tab's and pull the two wires out of the CJB. You will need a pick for this. Remember where the wires go in the CJB. :
DO THIS FOR BOTH WIRES.
Use wire strippers to expose some of the bare wire:
Run the pick straight through the wire making a hole in the center of the wire strands:
Insert the donor piece of wire from another fuse box (you will need to get two donor wires/pins from either a junkyard CJB or directly from the dealer) through the hole and wrap it around the factory wire:
Ford wire terminal part number: (I'll get it for you tomorrow)
If you really didn't want to mess with that you can just use two of the wires form the spare relay location that is prewired. I did mine this way incase anyone uses that other relay location for anything.
Solder the wire's together and use good heat shrink that has plastic inside to seal up the splice:
Let the heat shrink cool down. Good time to enjoy a good German Beer:
You can now insert the two factory wires back into their factory positions in the CJB.
There is a relay spot in the CJB that is not wired and is not used on our application. You want to insert the two jumper wires/pins into the side terminal positions for the relay:
You can now reinstall the bottom cover and attach the CJB to the retaining base on the fender well:
Reinstall the red skeleton, fuse F1.10 and the relay's:
You can now install your switch relay that you made into the empty slot:
Now all you have to do is turn the key on and flip the switch to turn on the fuel pumps.
Now, you want to use a very shallow rocker switch so the top cover on the CJB does not interfere with the rocker switch and possibly activate the switch when you close the cover. The setup that I have does not have any issues with switch contact.
For the past three years, I have gone to MIR and one of our own has asked me every year "which pins do I need to jump to turn on the pumps"?
Well Jack...... This one is for you.
I started off with a stock Ford relay:
I then opened up the relay and gutted out every thing that I would not need:
I soldered two wires onto the relay side terminals:
Followed up by some heat shrink:
I then took the relay cap and heated up a razor blade (held by vise grips) with a torch to cut out a hole for the rocker switch:
Install the cap back on the relay base with the wires sticking through the hole:
Solder the wires onto the rocker switch:
Then install the switch into the relay cap:
Now, onto the truck.
Remove the lid from the CJB (Central Junction Box/fuse panel):
Remove all of the relay's from the CJB:
Use a pair of pliers to remove the red skeleton that locks in the wire pins:
Around the edge of the CJB there are a few tabs that you need to depress in order to remove the CJB from the base that bolts to the fender well. Once you figure out how to release the tabs, pull the side relay block off the CJB and then pull the CJB up till it is free:
Now you need to remove the bottom cover:
There are release tabs all around the bottom cover:
Just push the tabs in towards the center of the CJB and pull the cover off:
Now you need to pull fuse F1.10 (20amp) out. This will kill all of the power to the two wires that you are going to be remove from the CJB:
Next you need to release the small tab's and pull the two wires out of the CJB. You will need a pick for this. Remember where the wires go in the CJB. :
DO THIS FOR BOTH WIRES.
Use wire strippers to expose some of the bare wire:
Run the pick straight through the wire making a hole in the center of the wire strands:
Insert the donor piece of wire from another fuse box (you will need to get two donor wires/pins from either a junkyard CJB or directly from the dealer) through the hole and wrap it around the factory wire:
Ford wire terminal part number: (I'll get it for you tomorrow)
If you really didn't want to mess with that you can just use two of the wires form the spare relay location that is prewired. I did mine this way incase anyone uses that other relay location for anything.
Solder the wire's together and use good heat shrink that has plastic inside to seal up the splice:
Let the heat shrink cool down. Good time to enjoy a good German Beer:
You can now insert the two factory wires back into their factory positions in the CJB.
There is a relay spot in the CJB that is not wired and is not used on our application. You want to insert the two jumper wires/pins into the side terminal positions for the relay:
You can now reinstall the bottom cover and attach the CJB to the retaining base on the fender well:
Reinstall the red skeleton, fuse F1.10 and the relay's:
You can now install your switch relay that you made into the empty slot:
Now all you have to do is turn the key on and flip the switch to turn on the fuel pumps.
Now, you want to use a very shallow rocker switch so the top cover on the CJB does not interfere with the rocker switch and possibly activate the switch when you close the cover. The setup that I have does not have any issues with switch contact.
