ORM brake pads changed?

Dinosgt

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Hey folks - I just got a new set of Ford pads for my 13. I know - overpriced - but my RB racing pads squeal like hell and so I hate them.

When I took these out of the box - the friction surface has a different face and the pad number is slightly changed. The pads look like they are correct, but I can not find part number DR3V - 2D080 - BB anywhere (stamped on back of new pads). The original part was ‘BA’.

Can anyone tell me if these are correct?

Thx.

IMG_8599.JPG

IMG_8600.JPG


The part number on the box is correct I believe.

View attachment 1488766
 
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Snoopy49

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The part number stamped on the back of my Jan 2013 GT500 (2013) front pads is DR3V-2D080-BC.
 

Snoopy49

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When was your car built? Month and Year

They show 2 part numbers.
To - 4-12 7R3Z-2001-A
From 5-12 DR3Z-2001-D
 

Dinosgt

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When was your car built? Month and Year

They show 2 part numbers.
To - 4-12 7R3Z-2001-A
From 5-12 DR3Z-2001-D

Thanks Snoopy. 5-12 build date. Guess that was the first batch of cars built. Sold in Dec 2012.

The 7R3z pad looks like it for a 2012 MY car to me from the pictures online I found.

Btw I can’t find anywhere what the orientation of the brake indicator is supposed to be. I believe it’s the inner pad.


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Dinosgt

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I see that my third pic didnt show - FWIW the PN on the box is correct:

DR3Z 2001 D


I also see the DR3V -2Dxxx and DR3V- 2Cxxx look like inner and outer pads. Only difference is brake wear indicator.

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Snoopy49

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Btw I can’t find anywhere what the orientation of the brake indicator is supposed to be. I believe it’s the inner pad.

I marked mine when I removed them and the brake indicator tab is on the lower left of the outboard pad on both sides.

P5190136.JPG
 

Dinosgt

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lol - Thanks Snoopy. Guess I gotta take it apart again. (I wonder if it matters?) ...



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Snoopy49

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I looked through the workshop manual and they didn't mention the indicator tabs.
I wonder if one pad wears quicker than the other pad? If so, that's the pad that needs the indicator.
 

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Dinosgt

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I looked through the workshop manual and they didn't mention the indicator tabs.
I wonder if one pad wears quicker than the other pad? If so, that's the pad that needs the indicator.

Thanks again Snoopy - I read everything I could and watched all the youtube stuff, and cant anywhere a reference to the "proper" placement of the indicator (inboard or outboard) on this car - likely because the 6 piston design doesn't wear differently inboard vs outboard. However the placement on the leading edge (which the rotor rotates "into") is what I have read is the correct way to install these things.

The reason I doubt it matters is because I will never let them get that low anyway. My only concern is to be sure that the caliper doesnt have an issue with interference if they are in the wrong place. Guess I am going to take them apart again tomorrow and see...

(I still cant figure out why the replacement pad surface is different than the original, but I guess that's just the way it is from Ford now)

Thanks very much again Snoopy

(Edit - because it was bugging me I went ahead and tore it apart at 1 am. Yes. 1 am.

The back of the caliper is pretty tight, and it’s tough to see the inboard pad. So I decided to switch the pads (inner and outer) to be sure a) the wear indicator is on the leading edge and b) there is no potential for any rubbing or interference against the large caliper.

Finally - On the bright side - I am now able to change the pads out start to finish in 6 minutes. )

Snoopy - let me guess - the rear pad Indicator belongs on the outside too?
 
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Snoopy49

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Here are a couple of pictures of my original front pads compared to the ceramic Carbotech replacement pads.
Notice no noise pads or wear indiator tabs on the Carbotech pads.

P1010771.JPG


P1010776.JPG


P1010784.JPG


P1010780.JPG
 

Snoopy49

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Update: Just took another look at my front pads.
DR3V-2D080-BC - Outboard pad w/wear tab
DR3V-2C046-BC - Inboard pad
 

Cman01

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My OE pads has the indicator on the inboard side of the pad. I now use Centric pads and reinstalled them also with the pad having the indicator on the inboard side.

It doesn't really matter where you install these pads, the indicator pad can be installed on either side of the rotor but if you remove them after driving the car for whatever reason make sure they go back on the correct side of the car in the correct position on the rotor.

I store my used but good pads in a box labelled F for front of car and place them in there in the proper position (friction material facing each other and placed in the proper side of the box L/R).

Tony
 

Dinosgt

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Here are a couple of pictures of my original front pads compared to the ceramic Carbotech replacement pads.
Notice no noise pads or wear indiator tabs on the Carbotech pads.

View attachment 1488736

View attachment 1488737

View attachment 1488738

View attachment 1488740

Thanks much for this.

Now the plot thickens. Your original pads’ friction face looks exactly like my replacement pads - but different than my OE pad face (also with a BA part designations vs your BC). I wonder what gives? (see my first pic)


Don’t sweat the color of the face on the OE pad - I may have slightly cooked them at a track event

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Dinosgt

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My OE pads has the indicator on the inboard side of the pad. I now use Centric pads and reinstalled them also with the pad having the indicator on the inboard side.

It doesn't really matter where you install these pads, the indicator pad can be installed on either side of the rotor but if you remove them after driving the car for whatever reason make sure they go back on the correct side of the car in the correct position on the rotor.

I store my used but good pads in a box labelled F for front of car and place them in there in the proper position (friction material facing each other and placed in the proper side of the box L/R).

Tony

Thanks Tony. Curious - do you swap them out for racing vs street? If so, do you go through a bedding process each time even thought they are used pads?


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Cman01

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Yes I run Carbotech XP12 pads F&R when I track the car doing lapping sessions (twice @ Mosport and once @ Daytona Rolex course).

I install the Carbotechs and separate set of rotors that are bedded to those pads when I race. I return to the Centric pads and rotors when back to the street.

For the strip I don't worry about switching pads I just run my street Centrics and it's fine.
 

Cman01

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Once they are bedded you are good to go. No need to rebed pads that have been tracked when you switch to them for an event. My rear Carbos and rotors are still good after 3 lapping events but I will need new front pads and rotors for my next lapping event when I go do one.
 

Snoopy49

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After doing some research on the wear indicators, it looks like they are usually on the pad that contacts the piston. When the pistons are on both sides of the caliper, it doesn't seem to matter which side of the rotor they sit on. That would explain why the indicators, on my car, were located on the inboard side of the rotor on the rear brakes.
The factory workshop manual doesn't provide any guidance on the matter. I figure that if it was important, the manual would have warnings or notes about their orientation.
 
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Dinosgt

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After doing some research on the wear indicators, it looks like they are usually on the pad that contacts the piston. When the pistons are on both sides of the caliper, it doesn't seem to matter which side of the rotor they sit on. That would explain why the indicators, on my car, were located on the inboard side of the rotor on the rear brakes.
The factory workshop manual doesn't provide any guidance on the matter. I figure that if it was important, the manual would have warnings or notes about their orientation.

Came to the same conclusion. Ergo I put them on the inside on the rear, and outside on the fronts. I don’t think the fronts matter at all though.

I still can’t get a read on why the puck shape changed from my OE pad to the replacement part. But Interestingly the replacements look like yours... when was your car built Snoopy?


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