Ordering my gears today, advice on tuners ?

[gonebrokeracing]

I didn't really want to get a tuner yet. hard to let go of that kinda money all at once lol.
The only mods I have is a K&N OE style and 2.5" Mac-Pro chamber with dumped 2.5" Borla Pro-XS and now 3.73 gears.
My car runs great. I do however have 2 codes that pop up sometimes
P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
P0457 EVAP Control System Leak Detected Fuel Filler Cap Loose/Off
I've change every EGR related sensor i can and still comes back on, now i just keep my scanner in the car and clear it everytime it shows.
That brings me to my 1st question can you turn off select EGR sensor or do you have to disable the whole system?

The mods I would like to do in the future JLT cold air ( in the fender )
Don't know if it would make any difference I have a 90 mm Mass Air meter off my brother 03 Harley F150 I'd like to try. Switch out to 170* or 180* stat and change out the exhaust to a x-pipe and Borla XR1's maybe a set of long tubes down the road.

It's a daily driver and 93 octane gas only, never been to the track with it.
Of course I'd want a performance tune, a everyday safe tune
and if they have it a Trip tune for better Gas mileage.

What tuner would be best.
Don't really need any date-logging or to be mounted in the car.

 

[Sluggie24]

The EGR and EVAP are completely different systems in the car. Changing parts on the EGR system won't help EVAP codes. If you have a new edge I'd bet that either the filler neck has a hole rotted in it behind the plastic factory shroud or the gas tank grommet is leaking. Both are very poor designs by ford.

 

[Three21]

Have you changed you gas cap yet? It's like $8 and will most likely clear both of those codes since they go hand in hand. Yes you can turn off the EGR in the tune, I made a block off plate at the plenum and capped the header when I deleted mine.

I wouldn't go colder than 180deg on the thermostat. If you change to the 90mm MAF you will def need a tune.

You will need a handheld tuner like an SCT X4 to load tunes in and out of the car. Some vendors sell them with "X" amount of free tunes or "tunes for life" when you buy the handheld. The best email tune will be one that you send a list of your mods in so they give you an initial tune, then data log and send that info back so they can tweak it to perfection with a couple of iterations.

LaSota, VMP, Lund are some of the first tuners that come to my mind.

 

[gonebrokeracing]

The EGR and EVAP are completely different systems in the car. Changing parts on the EGR system won't help EVAP codes. If you have a new edge I'd bet that either the filler neck has a hole rotted in it behind the plastic factory shroud or the gas tank grommet is leaking. Both are very poor designs by ford.

I ment the EVAP system! but have replaced EGR sensor stuff along with the EVAP stuff except the canister.
I will look at the filler hose and grommet next

 

[gonebrokeracing]

Have you changed you gas cap yet?

I've put 2 Motorcraft caps on it, along with every sensor on the system.
I had a tuner in my 7.3 diesel, so i'm familiar with them.
I was looking at SCT X4 tuner. I know going to a lower temp stat you have to change the temp the fan comes on and going to a bigger MAF it has to be calibrated too.
I would do those only after i got a tuner

 

[Sluggie24]

I've been an auto tech for 25 years now. In my experience, unless the cap is left loose, the cap is only the EVAP leak about 5% of the time. Most of the time there is a leak elsewhere in the system or a bad sensor. It really depends on the vehicle as there are common problems with certain models once they get older.

On the new edge they put a plastic "protector" around the metal fuel filler neck. Looks like wire loom . That collects road debris, dirt and sand in it. That debris holds water against the pipe which causes it to rot/rust. Eventually they get a hole which will throw EVAP codes.

They also used a rubber grommet to seal the filler neck to the tank which was stupid. Over time it can dry rot, harden or shrink causing a leak which will throw codes. Can also be damaged if the tank was removed at one time.

My advice would be to remove that plastic cover on the neck and look at the surface. It's only held on by zip ties. Dust any loose rust off and smell it to see if you detect a fuel odor. If you aren't sure go fill the tank on a dry day and look under there and see if the rusted section of pipe looks wet or damp right after filling. A hole the size of a pin prick will set a code.

If you find a leak in the neck replace both the neck AND the grommet. Last I looked lmr had both on their website.