Ok brake problem

[Silverstrike]

So I bought Hawk Performance ceramic pads to get rid of all the dust the stock pads make. And now no matter what I do the right rear caliper housing will not clear even the old pads. I tried to slip it on the pads and it is like I need about a 1/4 inch extra to clear the pads. I tried to engage and disengage the emergancy brake and still no dice. It is like the piston is froze in place and so not allowing it to retract further to clear the pads. Was thinking that the emergancy cable is preventing it from also moving? And even if I did get it on it would be sio tight as to not allow the rotor to free wheel!

Or am I overlooking something simple to make this easier? What ever it is I'll never forget it once I find out what it is. So any tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

[86Fbody]

Did you use the correct tool to compress the rear calipers?

 

[Silverstrike]

No I used the old 5" C clamp but now you talk about it I noticed the notches around the calipers.

 

[cobra-boss]

The piston should screw in.

Jim

 

[KBBoss302]

You can use needle nose pliers to twist it in. Don't worry - I suspect that a lot of us have had the same "what the heck is wrong here?" moment when doing Ford rear pads.

 

[5 DOT 0]

The slots need to be vertical relative to the pad or they won't seat properly. You need to remove the pads and get the piston in the correct position.

 

[Silverstrike]

Yes needlenose pliers did the trick.

my 2002 F-150 Lightning didn't have this, my 2003 Marauder didn't have this set up either. Seems like when Ford started to kill all the pre 2004 models they went to this set up. And so I'll never forget about this.

So I thank you all for the help and to get back to changing the dust makers to the Hawks and hope the rims stay clean longer this summer.

 

[86Fbody]

I am pretty sure some of the old Fords had this since my dad had the tool for his Fox body. Which Hawk Pads did you go with?

 

[Silverstrike]

I am pretty sure some of the old Fords had this since my dad had the tool for his Fox body. Which Hawk Pads did you go with?

HPC's

 

[lsxjunkie]

Do the Brembos do this too?

 

[LostPony]

The front pistons will compress with pressure, but the rears on every Mustang I've ever had with rear discs has had to have the rear piston screwed in. Same with most every other rear disc setup. My MINI and Miata were the same way.

 

[ac427cobra]

You can use needle nose pliers to twist it in. Don't worry - I suspect that a lot of us have had the same "what the heck is wrong here?" moment when doing Ford rear pads.

Hopefully you oriented the rear piston correctly? (front are compress only and need no orientation) :read:

You do know that the piston needs correct orientation once you reassemble the rear caliper?:idea:

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

 

[DA BOSS 13]

MAN! They are still using those calipers! Go to the parts store and get the "cube", it has different pins on the faces of the cube for different screw in calipers. Using a rachet and extension with the correct face of the cube to match your piston, screw the caliper in until the pins line up with the pad and there is .040 to .060 clearance between the pads and the caliper when assembled. The caliper piston has only .125" of hydraulic travel. If you provide two little clearance, the pads can drag and ruin your pads and rotors, if you provide TOO MUCH clearance the piston ends it's travel without compressing the brakes. I found this out when I was young and inexperienced doing brakes a Lincoln Mark VII!!!

On a final note, on this brake set up ALWAYS USE YOUR PARK BRAKE, because the park brake adjusts the caliper piston out as the pads wear. So technically you can wear away the pad and have no back brakes.

 

[Silverstrike]

MAN! They are still using those calipers! Go to the parts store and get the "cube", it has different pins on the faces of the cube for different screw in calipers. Using a rachet and extension with the correct face of the cube to match your piston, screw the caliper in until the pins line up with the pad and there is .040 to .060 clearance between the pads and the caliper when assembled. The caliper piston has only .125" of hydraulic travel. If you provide two little clearance, the pads can drag and ruin your pads and rotors, if you provide TOO MUCH clearance the piston ends it's travel without compressing the brakes. I found this out when I was young and inexperienced doing brakes a Lincoln Mark VII!!!

On a final note, on this brake set up ALWAYS USE YOUR PARK BRAKE, because the park brake adjusts the caliper piston out as the pads wear. So technically you can wear away the pad and have no back brakes.

The cube wouldn't even get into the two slots to small to cover the distance. So I borrowed a caliper tool and it went right in without any problems. Backing plate butted up to the caliper side and pushed it in. Now on to the front and hope it is twice as easy as these monsters.

 

[Smileyboy]

So i hate to admit this but i had the same problem. Piston would not go in all the way. Ended up getting it replaced at the dealership under warranty.

 

[86Fbody]

The cube wouldn't even get into the two slots to small to cover the distance. So I borrowed a caliper tool and it went right in without any problems. Backing plate butted up to the caliper side and pushed it in. Now on to the front and hope it is twice as easy as these monsters.

The fronts are super easy since you can just slide the pads into places without even taking the caliper off.

 

[DA BOSS 13]

So what you are saying a SPECIAL tool is required to screw in the caliper of my BOSS in the rear., A standard universal setup WON'T WORK?

 

[86Fbody]

So what you are saying a SPECIAL tool is required to screw in the caliper of my BOSS in the rear., A standard universal setup WON'T WORK?

There is a special tool yes, is it unique to the Boss no. Something akin to http://www.mechanicstoolsupply.com/Rear-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Tool-L25000_p_18195.html

 

[DA BOSS 13]

Definitely a nicer deal than using a "CUBE" I've got to look into one.

 

[86Fbody]

Most guys on here have probably run into this in the past and had the tool, so if this is your first car/first time doing a brake job you wouldn't know. I didn't know about the tool but my dad has been wrenching for a long time and he had one.