Official GT 5.0/Boss 302 UOA thread

UnleashedBeast

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Questions:
1) Do you truly believe that Amsoil is a superior oil vs. other name brands? Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, etc? Yes, the base oil and additive package of Signature Series is no compromise. Amsoil didn't take shortcuts with SS to make more money, thinking the customer would never notice.
2) Do stand by your Amsoil 5W-20 recommendation for a car like mine? Is this the "best" recommendation for a stock GT, or just the simplest? I ask because I'd prefer to buy oil in bulk to save money, especially if I get Amsoil. Also, I do live in a hot climate, and eventually plan to add bolt ons. No matter how you drive a stock NA Coyote with simple bolt ons, or the climate, 5W-20 will get you there using Amsoil Signature Series 5W-20
3) What kind of oil change methodology would you recommend to my car at 10,700 miles? I had considered changing it now, and then again at 15,000, considering I had no idea what was in it before. Using Amsoil SS 5W-20, change it every 15,000 miles or one year, whichever occur first. Cheap Motorcraft can easily do 10,000 miles or one year in an 8 quart sump. Amsoil Signature can easily do 15,000.
4) Are there any other maintenance items I should take care of besides an oil change before I start driving the car harder? Fuel filters, other fluids or filters, or stuff I'm not thinking of? If I recall correctly, there isn't a fuel filter on this car. However, I would change transmission and rear differential fluid. If the car is older than 2-3 year, brake fluid as well.


Thanks

My comments in red
 

stang99x

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Not wanting to create controversy here, but I'm curious about one thing. Why would anyone support a company that 1) falsely states they were a "first" or invented a product that they simply relabeled that had been created already and 2) why would you pay $35 to analyze oil when you can get 10 quarts of quality synthetic for less than $50 off the shelf. It seems very counter intuitive to pay to analyze something old when you all but paid the same amount that you could have paid to replace it. And for the record, I don't recognize the whole "wasting resources" argument. I drive my 5.0 like I stole, which is why I bought it in the first place. I dont' mind changing my oil at reasonable intervals (read 5000), as it gives me feel of how my engine is performing and aging when I can look at it that often.

Also, I recall years and years ago when the amsoil sales reps would come around and get sent packing as no one would touch the stuff. Then it appeared in the motorcycle and ATV world, and seemed to make a return to automotive via a backdoor from the motorcycle world. Again, not slamming or trying to instigate, but there are very few out there that advocate the stuff all these years later even with their far out claims of first ever and crazy mileages. (I did read a bit on them, it seems they have revised their warranty on Toyota's old 3.0 engine and won't honor their mileage claims on it as it was in their words "poorly designed.") So my point in all this is, why do you believe in it and push it given all the false claims they make.....the first in synthetic, etc. Their first syn was nothing more than a relabeled military spec oil. Curious of your thoughts
 

stang99x

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Beer, Wallyworld usually has the EP for the same price as the normal M1.......not sure there's much difference, and I am a Mobil dealer
 

Beernuts

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Beer, Wallyworld usually has the EP for the same price as the normal M1.......not sure there's much difference, and I am a Mobil dealer

Yep, that's why I decided to give it a try. However I loath going to Walmart and now that Amazon Prime has Pennzoil Ultra 5q jugs for $23 shipped I'll likely be sticking with that.
 

Hani

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Troy, I've sent you an e-mail last week regarding an AMSOIL for my car. I've sent it to the e-mail address mentioned on this thread, not sure if you've received it. Let me know if there is another address to use. Thanks
 

devildog1679

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I’m running 0w40 in the summer. I notice that at start up I can hear a rattle from the engine at startup. Once it gets warm it goes away. Any ideas? Could it be the thicker oil?
 

03Sssnake

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I’m running 0w40 in the summer. I notice that at start up I can hear a rattle from the engine at startup. Once it gets warm it goes away. Any ideas? Could it be the thicker oil?

I never had a start up rattle, but I would get the igniter tick after the car was fully warmed up, this only happened right after an oil change and would last for a few hundred miles, then go away. My car is a track pack and came with 5-50 fill from the factory, so I have been using that and 40 weight for changes, without fail I always got the igniter tick once the car was warmed up and had been driven. Recently just changed with a 30 weight Mobil 1 and no more tick. My evidence is anecdotal at best, but I am going to to stick to lighter weights from now on and hope that igniter tick doesn't come back. Think these only came with a 5-50 factory fill, because Ford figured we would be beating these cars at HPDE's.
 

devildog1679

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Min only does it at start up and only when I rev it a little. Once engine is warm it totally goes away. I guess come October when I put it my winter 5W20 I'll see is the thinner oil helps.
 

03Sssnake

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Min only does it at start up and only when I rev it a little. Once engine is warm it totally goes away. I guess come October when I put it my winter 5W20 I'll see is the thinner oil helps.

are you sure they didn't give you an LS motor :D, just about every car I have owned with an LS motor had a pretty good rattle when cold, especially in the winter, but it always subsided quickly.
 

Dashti

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2014 mustang gt with squeaking sound coming from the valve cover at the rear passenger side (sound like a belt squeaking) do you recommend an oil that would help the issue
Thank you
 

UnleashedBeast

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2014 mustang gt with squeaking sound coming from the valve cover at the rear passenger side (sound like a belt squeaking) do you recommend an oil that would help the issue
Thank you

Sounds like a mechanical issue, something a good lube won't fix. Have you located the issue?
 

JDos1

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Troy,
Latest sample received. Over 14k miles on this sample in under 6 months. Everything looks normal.
Used 1 qt of make up ATM. EA017 filter as always. TBN is lower than last sample, most likely due to the use of .75 less quart of make up oil.

UOA1015_zpsqg43jk3p.jpg
 
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UnleashedBeast

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Troy,
Latest sample received. Over 14k miles on this sample in under 6 months. Everything looks normal.
Used 1 qt of make up ATM. EA017 filter as always. TBN is lower than last sample, most likely due to the use of .75 less quart of make up oil.

UOA1015_zpsqg43jk3p.jpg

Congratulations on being the first UOA on the list to exceed 100,000 miles with oil sampling. Members, take a close look at the quality of Amsoil. On his report (sample #4) you can see despite 14,576 miles of use, TBN (base number - detergent additives) are still 2.79. TBN isn't critical until 1.0 is reached. All this while wear metals are LOW. The formulation DID NOT SHEAR! Make up oil did replenish a small amount of the TBN, however.

I can't fathom how someone would prefer to use a lower quality product, changing the oil more, while spending more money and time.

Good job sir, your engine looks healthy on paper.
 

JDos1

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Based on dyno #'s and track times, it's still healthy. Haven't lost any power as it's "aged".
 

UnleashedBeast

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https://goo.gl/photos/schciNnQJFkgL4SLA

Probably went with the wrong weight... But I expected more track time.

Used a royal Purple filter
Had about 60 auto-x runs on this oil. 1 hour track time (3x20 min) - babied it a little since I build the brakes at the same track last year. I'm on Dot4 rotul now.

I do not see any issues with the SAE grade of Amsoil you are using. Formulation didn't shear, and it's protecting your engine while you play. The RP filter is the same as the Amsoil EaO. You're a driver, but the UOA sure can't tell it! Good stuff.
 

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