Official GT 5.0/Boss 302 UOA thread

myke hunt

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My mind is blown right now. I have been using M1 10w30 and M1 filter in my 3v. I even have 6 quarts left over in my shed. Thanks for years of easy to decipher information for even a novice. So it looks like 10w30 is the way to go for my car. My climate is central Florida, my commute is 20-30 min of light traffic, and then 30-40 of heavy traffic on the way back (trip is no more than 15 miles}. The car is a 2012 GT/CS 6 speed with just intake, tune, Roush AB, and a JLT oil separator on passenger side. What is the best way to check oil consumption? Is the stick accurate enough to estimate off of? I'm waiting for my fittings to come in for my JLT.
 

UnleashedBeast

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My mind is blown right now. I have been using M1 10w30 and M1 filter in my 3v. I even have 6 quarts left over in my shed. Thanks for years of easy to decipher information for even a novice. So it looks like 10w30 is the way to go for my car. My climate is central Florida, my commute is 20-30 min of light traffic, and then 30-40 of heavy traffic on the way back (trip is no more than 15 miles}. The car is a 2012 GT/CS 6 speed with just intake, tune, Roush AB, and a JLT oil separator on passenger side. What is the best way to check oil consumption? Is the stick accurate enough to estimate off of? I'm waiting for my fittings to come in for my JLT.

If you see my most recent recommendations, there really is no need to increase from 5W-20 Amsoil Signature Series when it's a bolt on, tune, exhaust only car. Until you are beating this car up for dear life or install a power adder, keep it simple. To test consumption, check your oil periodically on the same level surface to see if there is a level change. Make a note of the miles, date, and what the level was at. Compare notes after every test.
 

CobraRed_96_GT

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Oil options for:

Daily driven 2011 BBP GT with bolt-ons/tune and large front mount oil cooler (180-200 degree thermo) without doing HPDE for at least a year

And same set-up doing HPDE 3-4 times a year.

I imagine a higher viscosity will keep oil pressure higher?
 

UnleashedBeast

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Oil options for:

Daily driven 2011 BBP GT with bolt-ons/tune and large front mount oil cooler (180-200 degree thermo) without doing HPDE for at least a year

And same set-up doing HPDE 3-4 times a year.

I imagine a higher viscosity will keep oil pressure higher?

No HPDE = 5W-20
HPDE = 0W-40 (minimum) 5W-50 if you drive like the Stig.
 

2013.5.0

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Unleashed, I got my car back today. The new engine not only feels much better, smoother, not tick-y, but the exhaust note sounds different. It has a different timbre to it.

The service writer said no breakin was necessary. From what I recall in the manual it says 300 miles of constantly varying speed, no extended WOT, no laboring the engine, and that's about it. I had an 80 mile drive to get it home. Many people say keep it below 60 for a few hundred miles, obviously I couldn't do this. I have no gone WOT yet but the engine revs much more smoothly and it's just a world of difference.

In the paperwork they cited the following problems with my old engine:
-Compared to like unit - 'sound is not normal' -- important because many people aver the opposite
-Sound remains with serpentine belt removed (obviously)
-Sound remains despite cylinder deactivation
-Scoring on cylinder walls
-Scoring on cam towers/cams
-Excessive metal in oil filter
-Excessive metal in oil pan and oil pickup tube
-Failed oil pressure testing
 
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UnleashedBeast

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I break um' in like I stole it!

Did your engine ever lose oil pressure or have constant low pressure? It may be hard to tell, since Ford only gave us an dummy gauge that doesn't fluctuate.
 
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SlowJim

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Beast, how do you feel about adding an extra quart before track days to help prevent starvation in long sweeping corners?
 

UnleashedBeast

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Serious road course racers should consider a better baffled oil pan. Then, as stated above, fill to the top of the cross hatch marks only. Never over fill.
 

cobraboss

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Beast, I run RD30 in my coyote and run high RPM's in HPDE. Also on E85 and now you are saying switch to 5-50? Now this cat is ONLY a track car, what gives?
 

devildog1679

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I just switched to Amsoil 0w40 and their filter. I normally only change oil and filter twice a year (Early Spring, late fall). Being that I’m now running E85 Spring through summer I might throw in another oil change in the middle of summer. Would it be OK to just leave the filter and just change the oil?
 

UnleashedBeast

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I just switched to Amsoil 0w40 and their filter. I normally only change oil and filter twice a year (Early Spring, late fall). Being that I’m now running E85 Spring through summer I might throw in another oil change in the middle of summer. Would it be OK to just leave the filter and just change the oil?

I have yet to seen one UOA from a 5.0 using E85 that had a fuel dilution issue which resulted in reduced engine lubricant life. If you drive this car year round, I'd still only change it once a year. Perform a UOA test at the 6 month mark to reassure yourself (and confirm what I am telling you).

If you store it in the winter, change the oil before putting it into storage. In the spring, take the car for a long 1 hour drive to condition the lubricant for the rest of the season. Use fuel stabilizer while in storage and do not start the car all winter (battery tender). Lather, Rinse, Repeat.
 

UnleashedBeast

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Beast, I run RD30 in my coyote and run high RPM's in HPDE. Also on E85 and now you are saying switch to 5-50? Now this cat is ONLY a track car, what gives?

Why are you running HPDE events with only a 10W-30 lubricant? I'd use no less than the new 0W-40, with preference on 5W-50. I've never, ever recommended 10W-30 for closed course high RPM use. For street use and drag, sure....but not for constant high RPM.
 

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