Non kink tubing for the J2 flow mod

JCDriller

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Got the rest of the lines ran tonight.

WARNING!!! ORDER 50-55 FEET. I ordered 40 thinking I would have excess and unfortunately will have to use a hose repair under the drivers seat to finish the runs.

Otherwise, this stuff is awesome! Luckly the ICT Billet 1" male hose connectors srdigital posted above are made miles from my house. Hopefully I can pick two up tomorrow and get the car running. I'll swap out the rear few feet of hose at a later date, I'm ready to drive my car.

It's been down for a couple weeks while I installed an MM Oil Filter Relocation kit and redid all the fuses to a centra fuse box. The previous owner did a fine job, but the wiring was done over a number of years once fuse at a time so there were several fuses here-and-there for the dual fans, dual fuel pumps, Stewart water pump, etc. Also stripped out the higher amperage HID lights and went back to factory, they just look classier, no extra wiring and less amps drawn.

I think it turned out nice.
IMG_1812.jpeg


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IMG_1813.jpeg
 

phil a

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Agreed with J - for the price And flexibility, looks like it can’t be beat. I will probably go this route myself, so thank you.
 

94slowbra1

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Thanks for looking into this. They look great and the fact that you can 90* them is a plus. I'm looking to switch from my trunk tank to Justin's new 3gal underhood tank. When I do this I'll switch over to this hose
 

MalcolmV8

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Seems like a nice option. Is that a wire coil in the hose? when you cut the hose did you have to cut through metal as well?
 

JCDriller

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UPDATE: Tonight, I got everything hooked up and I'm getting a leak at the hose/J2 flow mod junction. Best I can tell I'm not getting a tight enough seal from trying to press the hose on over the coolant cross over. Due to this I'll be pulling the coolant cross over tube and because of that I've ordered 60' more feet of hose... If I'm going through the trouble to drain the coolant system and remove the cross over tube, I'm going to re-run the hose so it's 1 piece from beginning to end.

Anyone have any thoughts if I should change my coolant cross over to a flexible one? Any reason to do so? Nows the time if I'm going to do it.
 

*Jay*

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How are you clamping down on the hose??? Is the clamp able to stay between the ribs or does it have to overlap one.
 

JCDriller

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How are you clamping down on the hose??? Is the clamp able to stay between the ribs or does it have to overlap one.

I don't think it is the clamp. The cross over is blocking me from being able to press the hose on the passengers side barb in line with the barbed inlet itself. It's more of a downward motion than one inline with the inlet. If I kept messing with it, maybe I could get it, but I think it'll be better and more secure if I remove the cross over.


I would get a coolant crossover delete if you are removing everything. I have the j2fab and an on3 crossover delete. Made install much easier. You can see the room in the pic
View attachment 1631942

I am going to go with the on3 delete, that looks slick. I may as well do it while I'm there. I don't quite understand the cooling system well enough to envision how it changes, I'll have to figure that out and give them a call. Hopefully their kit is complete, I hate having to hunt for additional parts to these mods.

Also, your other post has me thinking about ordering the J2fab intercooler now.... I just don't want to wait for it to be built. I'll call, if they have one in stock, I'm buying it. Maybe someone cancelled their order with all the Kung Flu lay offs and job losses. Who knows?! Maybe I'll get lucky.
 

94slowbra1

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The only thing that the on3 kit didnt come with was the fitting that goes into new thermostat housing for the head cooling mod. If you dont run one the it does come with a plug to block it off. I just bought one from the hardware store, easy fix.
Also you will have to decide what you are going to do with the big bypass hose that comes off the factory crossover that runs to the thermostat housing.
It takes a little planning but it can really clean up all the underhood hoses and free up some space.
And yes if he has an intercooler in stock I'd grab it. I have pretty good results with my modded factory one but if the new one was an option when I did mine I most definitely would have gotten one.
Good luck
 

JCDriller

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Ok, so after looking into it I decided to stay with the factory cross over, more flow, normal thermostat, no delay in heating up the engine, etc.

I believe my problems will be resolved by pulling the pulley bridge instead of removing the crossover, this will be much easier and won't require me to purge air in the system.

I did receive a box with 70ft. of black hose and 15 feet of clear. I don't know what the reviews where talking about, but the clear seems more flexible than the black, not by much, maybe 10-15%. My current plan is to run the standard black hose then right inside the passenger's fender make a transition to the clear using the ICT billet hose couplings and run clear under the engine bay. If I change my mind later, it'll be easy to swap those short runs back to black.

QUESTION: Is the intercooler directional? I don't think it would be but I want to make sure before I install everything. I got to thinking about it and realized I wasn't sure I didn't flop the hoses somewhere along the way.
 

4sdvenom

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Yes it's directional and it what he said above. It helps from trapping air and more importantly it lets the air passing through the intercooler from the blower pass over the coldest portion of the intercooler last.
Hopefully that makes sense!

Ken
 

JCDriller

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Not sure about being directional but a rule for plumbing is always go in the bottom and out the top, this is for the i/c and h/e. Minimizes air getting trapped.

Yes it's directional and it what he said above. It helps from trapping air and more importantly it lets the air passing through the intercooler from the blower pass over the coldest portion of the intercooler last.
Hopefully that makes sense!

Ken

Thanks guys,

The heat exchanger is simple, but what about the intercooler under the supercharger. There is a passengers and a drivers side port. Which is the bottom (inlet) and which is the top (outlet)?

Finally, should the order of flow be Tank, Intercooler, HE, Tank OR Tank, HE, Intercooler, Tank? I assume the latter so the cooler air from the HE is being put right into the intercooler, but I want to make sure.

IMG_1808.jpeg
 

JCDriller

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What you are calling the passenger side is the bottom port.
Tank-pump-heat exchanger-intercooler-back go tank

Perfect, thank you! I should be able to redo the hose or most of it tomorrow. I'll have engine bay pictures of the clear tubing tomorrow.
 

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