No boost with new TVS...ideas?

ZOMBEAST

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Finally got a start-up tune in my newly installed TVS. Stock boost gauge is not budging. Zeeeero whine too! The gauge worked before the S/C swap.

I can't believe I'm having belt slip cause that sumbitch was hard to get on.

I'm not 100% sure I have the vacuum lines on the bypass valve installed correctly. I have the passenger side hose near EGR valve connected on top of bypass valve towards the rear. The other vacuum hose from the intake tube is connected on the bottom of the bypass valve closer to the front.

Any other ideas welcome.
 

ZOMBEAST

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Seahorse verified vacuum hoses are correct.

The diaphram on the bypass valve is good. I applied vacuum on both sides and it held.

I'll have to wait until tomorrow to measure vacuum on both sides of the valve while revving engine. Neighbors will go nuts if I do it this late.

Anyone know if the valve needs to be calibrated?
 

UnleashedBeast

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This is the LEAST likely option, but....

Improper assembly of the internals in the supercharger? Possible that something was left out of the assembly process, and the internals are not connected/spinning with the front snout?

When you received the TVS, did you spin the pulley by hand and watch the rotors spinning inside?
 

gt347mustang

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have you driven it? does it feel like it has boost? you should be able to tell pretty easily if its making boost or if you gauge is just wrong.
 

UnleashedBeast

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have you driven it? does it feel like it has boost? you should be able to tell pretty easily if its making boost or if you gauge is just wrong.

Even if the gauge was broke, he should hear some whine from the SC. The TVS is spinning really fast with a 2.5" upper and 10% OD lower.

Zom, did you check to make sure all vacuum lines were attached properly to the side of the air intake, and both PCV air lines?
 
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ZOMBEAST

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This is the LEAST likely option, but....

Improper assembly of the internals in the supercharger? Possible that something was left out of the assembly process, and the internals are not connected/spinning with the front snout?

When you received the TVS, did you spin the pulley by hand and watch the rotors spinning inside?

I have to admit I did play with it a little, and the rotors did spin.

have you driven it? does it feel like it has boost? you should be able to tell pretty easily if its making boost or if you gauge is just wrong.

Didn't go crazy since I just have an initial tune from Justin. Car felt like crap! Definitely not getting any boost.

Even if the gauge was broke, he should hear some whine from the SC. The TVS is spinning really fast with a 2.5" upper and 10% OD lower.

Zom, did you check to make sure all vacuum lines were attached properly to the side of the air intake, and both PCV air lines?

Everything seems to be connected properly. No blockage in any vacuum lines either.
 

UnleashedBeast

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Then the only option is that the bypass valve is stuck open.

Did you have to install the vacuum bypass valve on the SC when it arrived, or was it already installed?
 

me32

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Then the only option is that the bypass valve is stuck open.

Did you have to install the vacuum bypass valve on the SC when it arrived, or was it already installed?

+2 also is your base tune set to keep the by pass open to keep from having boost for safety.
 

ZOMBEAST

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Then the only option is that the bypass valve is stuck open.

Did you have to install the vacuum bypass valve on the SC when it arrived, or was it already installed?

The valve was already installed on the S/C

+2 also is your base tune set to keep the by pass open to keep from having boost for safety.

I guess that's a possibility.
 

Bulldogger

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How is the pulley mounted to the supercharger, is the bolt tight did it strip the splines and free wheel? Only other thing would be a major air leak like the gasket wasn't installed, if the by-pass valve is working. I'm still waiting to get my TVS so I don't have one in front of me to see the layout.

I would think the by-pass valve is vacuum activated and can't be programed to stay open in the tune. A safe tune will just have less timing and slightly richer fueling I don't think you can shut off boost it is mechanical.
 
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black03

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Are you running a MAFia? Keep in mind that your stock gauge is electric and won't register boost properly with a MAFia installed on it. Why don't you just T into the line going to the fuel rail pressure sensor and hook up a mechanical boost gauge. That's the best way for you to verify if the car is making boost or not. Don't rely on the stock gauge.
 

UnleashedBeast

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+2 also is your base tune set to keep the by pass open to keep from having boost for safety.

Is the valve controlled by vacuum pressure differentials on opposite sides of the manifold or is it controlled by another electric valve?

I would think the by-pass valve is vacuum activated and can't be programed to stay open in the tune. A safe tune will just have less timing and slightly richer fueling I don't think you can shut off boost it is mechanical.

My thoughts as well.
 
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me32

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Is the valve controlled by vacuum pressure differentials on opposite sides of the manifold or is it controlled by another electric valve?



My thoughts as well.

Well remember when you 1st bought ur car boost would not go over 4lbs untill 50 miles or so many starts. So If the factory can set limita why can't after market. Either way is call up the tuner an ask him.
 

Kostas

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Well remember when you 1st bought ur car boost would not go over 4lbs untill 50 miles or so many starts. So If the factory can set limita why can't after market. Either way is call up the tuner an ask him.


Its the first 7 miles and thats being controled by throttle blade angle. You cant control boost via bypass. I wish it was possible. It would be like a boost controler and a lot easier to launch at the track.

OP if all mechanical conections are corect, contact your tuner and ask him for a config file so you can datalog. maybe he is also limiting your throttle???
 

tktlwyr

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Even if the bypass valve was stuck open, you should still make boost.

I know, I had this problem. The car still made plenty of boost, but part throttle drivability was affected.
 

Yellow Horse

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Finally got a start-up tune in my newly installed TVS. Stock boost gauge is not budging. Zeeeero whine too! The gauge worked before the S/C swap.

I can't believe I'm having belt slip cause that sumbitch was hard to get on.

I'm not 100% sure I have the vacuum lines on the bypass valve installed correctly. I have the passenger side hose near EGR valve connected on top of bypass valve towards the rear. The other vacuum hose from the intake tube is connected on the bottom of the bypass valve closer to the front.

Any other ideas welcome.

A few weeks ago I was merging onto the interstate on a ramp in fourth and mashed on it a little and the car started pulling and then thumped with a big power loss. It did not have any power. I looked up and my boost gage said zero psi. I thought how could that be. It should have been pulling 20 inches on vacuum. It also bothered me that my blower had no whine. I continued to my destination trouble shooting it in my mind. I knew I had to have a vacuum leak but I thought it had to be massive. When I got where I was going I hopped out and the rubber t-fitting I have that tees off the swithc for my BAP to my boost gage had popped off. That's all it took. That little hole in the middle of that 1/8 plastci tubing.

I had a problem with my 2003 losing boost on a Kenne Bell. I took the vacuum line off my dump valve to test it.

Can you not do the same thing?

My money says a vacuum leak or you have your vacuum lines plumbed wrong. Your blower is fine.
 

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