Nitrous and 99/01 cobra's....

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NXSVTCOBRA

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What's the best kit for a 99/01 cobra?
-there's really no set answer to that its all in personal likings/opinions, the available options i believe are NX, ZEX, NOS, Compucar, and a few other small companies that takes from the larger companies and put their name on it. I personally run NX, and coming from NOS brand, I strongly believe that NX is far more superior.

How much of a shot can I spray on my stock cobra?
-untuned? i'd say a 100 shot, however the car will not run to its full potential with the nitrous, yes it would be faster, but not as fast as it should be on the bottle. once you get a tune and a general knowledge of how to drive your car on nitrous there is no reason your car should not take a 150 shot with the stock motor.

What do I have to do before I hook up my system and spray?
-Fuel system, if you plan on just running a 100 shot or less and having a little fun every now and then, you can get by with just changing the fuel filter, once you get up to start spraying in the 150+ shot range i recommend upgrading your pump, the easiest pumps that actually works to install on the returnless style system are the Focus pump, or Aviator the focus pump should be sufficient, but you can always go to the bigger Aviator pump, and have it tuned in, I personally run a Walboro 255lph pump and can't be more satisfied, but there are a few modifications that have to be done to the fuel basket to run the Walboro. Spark Plugs, 1 to 2 heat ranges colder, I use NGK TR6's which is about 1 heat range colder... for the guys that are more safety oriented, I'd also recommend an MSD Digital RPM Activated switch (aka window switch) this allows the nitrous to shut down in the event of an over-rev or you happen to attempt to spray too low, therefore preventing a backfire. also a Fuel Pressure Safety Switch (FPSS) when your fuel pressure drops, this safety switch shuts down the system as well. Other optional items include- Bottle Warmer, it keeps the nitrous at a perfect pressure, making your car more consistant with nitrous. Blow Down Tube, in the event of too much pressure you can vent the nitrous out of the car when the valve pops, if you run nitrous at the track they look for this (this can be bypass by installing a sheet metal "firewall" across the back of your back seat, thats what i use, and it must be AT LEAST .032" thick. Also for activation I recommend a WOT switch, much more easier than messing around with a button, a WOT switch is basically a switch you position on your throttle body that activates the system once the blade on the throttle is completely opened.

What's good bottle pressure?
-I believe that perfect bottle pressure is 1050psi, thats what i try and maintain, anything below 900 psi is getting too low, and above 1200 your solenoids will freeze

What's good nitrous gears on a 4v?
-Of Course 4.10's/4.30's, that will put you in the powerband quickly and keep you there when you shift, the general idea for spraying a stock 99/01 4v is from 4k-6800 rpms, however stock 3.27's will work fine

So I bought nitrous, I'm spraying and i hear "POP" and my hood looked like it lifted, what do I do?
-Shut your car off! IMMEDIATELY!!! you just experienced a nitrous backfire, most backfires occur from too much timing, not enough RPM, too much RPM, or spraying while not at WOT, if you're lucky the only thing that will happen is your intake shatters into peices everywhere, however i still recommend doing an engine overhaul after a backfire, there could be metal in your cylinders, or heads which may cause a problem in the future, i've heard of people just cleaning up the heads, and buying a new intake manifold and slapping it back on and running the car again, that's just plain retarded, some people don't even clean the heads they just slap on a new intake, again thats dumb...... do it the right way, pull the motor disassemble it, and overhaul it, you never know you could've blown a hole in your piston or bent a connecting rod.

So all of this talk how exactly do I spray nitrous?
-It's simple after you have everything hooked up and ready to go, take your car out to a safe and secluded location (preferably a drag strip) leave normally, and roll through the RPMS gradually and just before you 4k or so RPMS, nail the pedal to the floor, you should feel a difference, i recommend doing this in second or third gear your first time out, and practice practice practice, i started out that way in a higher gear, now i launch on spray, its just like learning to drive a car for the first time, you're not going to jump right in and be perfect.

I've heard of people saying "Nitrous blew up my motor, or Nitrous will damage your motor" is this true?
-This is the time when you bitch-slap this person, Nitrous does not blow motors, a bad tune, or untuned set-up, the user, getting greedy with nitrous (running too much) knowing your stock motor can not tke a 300 shot. the list can go on but i'm hoping you get the point. When properly tuned nitrous is as safe as any other power adder.

How long should my stock engine last while spraying a 150 shot?
- :shrug: <-- thats the best answer, like anything else in high performance its a gamble, it could last for years, or it could blow the first time you spray the motor.

What does a purge kit do?
-It does exactly what the name is, it purges air and/or debris from the lines and on NX kits if its setup properly it purges the nitrous solenoid as well, what i use the purge for mainly is to get the perfect bottle pressure, if its too high. i mainly see most people on the street use the purge as a "ooooh ahhhh" thing and waste perfectly good nitrous.... i guess its supposed to be intimidating

Where can I purchase a kit?
-where to purchase a new kit is all up to you, however when you buy a used kit, I would definately stay away from peiced together kits (i.e. different brands or systems put together) also if you don't have the instructions or a general knowledge of how relay works, i'd let some who knows how, to help you out, i've seen people hook up nitrous kits and their damn solenoid open up as soon as they arm the system, ask ask ask, but be careful who you ask i've also spoke with some nitrous "kings" about the system and thought to myself "what an idiot"

Last but not least if you want to run nitrous in my opinion its a pretty fun power adder, i've ran several different power adder set-ups on multiple cars and i think nitrous is the best by far, its consistant, cheap, and very easy to trouble shoot.... and addicting

*there's more im sure i left out if anyone wants to add*
 
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01lowcobra

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Where can i get this window switch, remote bottle opener, remote bottle heater?
 

NXSVTCOBRA

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window switch can be bought from your local high performance store or summit, remote bottle opener and bottle warmer can be purchased through NX or another nitrous vendor
 

Slowbra01

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i will be comin to you for help when i am ready to install the n2O!! I live in n.miami
 

99SVTcobraVERT

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99-01 cobra's can also be sprayed with 150 shot with stock plugs, stock injectors,maf and pump for 30,000 miles with no issues. i know because i did it =) although im not saying it was the smartest thing to do... but it CAN be done.

here is a cool tip for new guys to a kit w/o a bottle warmer. i ran my bottle line to my back seat flooring so i could remove bottle while inside the car and do whatever with it. i could even bring it up to front passenger seat floorboard and push it up to the heat vent on the floor and cut the heat on full blast. this works great in winter time and/or when nitrous level is low. like i said i did a lot of stupid stuff but it was fun while i used it !
 

NXSVTCOBRA

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NOScobra2001 said:
99-01 cobra's can also be sprayed with 150 shot with stock plugs, stock injectors,maf and pump for 30,000 miles with no issues. i know because i did it =) although im not saying it was the smartest thing to do... but it CAN be done.

here is a cool tip for new guys to a kit w/o a bottle warmer. i ran my bottle line to my back seat flooring so i could remove bottle while inside the car and do whatever with it. i could even bring it up to front passenger seat floorboard and push it up to the heat vent on the floor and cut the heat on full blast. this works great in winter time and/or when nitrous level is low. like i said i did a lot of stupid stuff but it was fun while i used it !
:dw: :shrug: plugs are roughly 2 bucks a pop so for $16 you can have a heat range or two colder? how long does your "heater method" take to warm a bottle to get it to 1000psi? im willing to say probably a long ass time
 

99SVTcobraVERT

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i had ngk's or maybe it was autolite's just like everyone said but i didnt like the performance of them, just didnt hit as hard. and actually it only takes about 5-6 mins to have it heated up to par psi. i mean if its 650 psi in the dead of winter 20 degree's outside then it may take like 10-12 mins.
 

NXSVTCOBRA

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so your nitrous "hit harder" with stock plugs and you switched back? and it took 10 mins to get your bottle pressure from 650 to 1000 with your floor vents from the heater? just trying to understand you correctly
 

99SVTcobraVERT

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actually yes, it was never confirmed or proved wrong on the dyno but repeat races showed it to be true as well as was confirmed with a local buddy of mine (venomoussvt) and yes it never took long to heat a 10lb tank when the bottle was pushed up against the floor vents. go turn your heat on full blast and let your hand block it off and you will see how hot it can get. i know how it sounds but trust me just try it before you crack on it. it sure as hell beat using an open flame which ive seen some dumbass do before.
 

NXSVTCOBRA

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never said it didnt work i was just getting clariffication, but to me it seems like a hassle to move your vbottle from the trunk area to the front, my lines run under my carpet, hopefully yours is the same, which means that you'd have to lift your back seat, take off ur door sill, and lift up your carpet just to warm up your bottle?

oh wells its okay, its your car, just trying to get some clarrification, whatever works
 

99SVTcobraVERT

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lines ran through door sill and over carpet =) and had plenty of line left to move it around even to the front seat floorboard. but i just never really cared we have all done something ghetto in our lives at one point or another haha.
 

99SVTcobraVERT

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Sprayed_Pony said:
damn, i bet that looks tacky :poke:

actually you couldnt see it as it was behind drivers seat and i have seat all the way back (im 6'4'') and i would always have a shirt or something over it. :poke:
 

droptopsnake01

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If I were going to run a 200 shot in my 01 will I have to change my fuel system from returnless? What else am I going to have/need to get w/ that shot?
 

NXSVTCOBRA

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no you don't have to change over, the returnless system provides enough fuel pressure to be able to run it, make sure you upgrade the pump....

also i'm hoping you aren't doing this on a stock bottom end, it may just be kind of risky
 

droptopsnake01

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Sprayed_Pony said:
no you don't have to change over, the returnless system provides enough fuel pressure to be able to run it, make sure you upgrade the pump....

also i'm hoping you aren't doing this on a stock bottom end, it may just be kind of risky

Haha, no its getting a built bottom end. Will it handle a 200 shot fine?
 

JGS107

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The block is getting bored over due to some bad rust and pitting on my cylinder walls. We are hoping that the 20 over will take care of it(yes its that bad). Then it will be getting some forged rods/pistons in there (dont really know which type yet but I want the best I can get) Why not do it right?

Then it will be getting sprayed w/ a 200 shot. Its not going to be getting sprayed heavily prolly a lil more once its new but then after that wears off just for track and occasionally on the street.

I also have ported 03 heads, ported intake, and Fr500 cams Im looking for about 550rwhp w/ the gas.
 
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