New Welds and Last Nights Timeslips

Jdm351

Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Messages
120
Location
Gilbert
Just got a pair of 15 x 8 RTS wheels and 26x10.5x15 Et Street Bias Plys. I weighed this rear tire package and each was 35 lbs. The stockers are 55 each so a huge 40 lb rotational weight loss. Went to Wildhorse Pass Motorsports park last night to try them out. Dead hooked every pass at a track known for little to no track prep and traction. I was happy about that.

However, the best 60 i mustered was 1.89 with 4500 rpm clutch dump. Do I really need to raise that rpm to drop the sixty down to 1.6 or 1.7x? I've seen relatively stock cars like mine (axle back, drop in filter) in the 1.7x range on the intraweb and kind of expected to do that pretty easily.

Also, my 1/8th mph was sub 88 mph and I have seen others at 90mph. I picked up 23.5 on the big end and thought that is pretty good, just need to find more on the front half. Will a 6k rpm clutch dump drop the 60 another .15 and bring me into the low twelves? DA last night was 12-1500 ft and this is an manual 3.31 gear car.

IMG_1926.JPG
IMG_1925.JPG
IMG_1924.JPG
 

q6543

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2014
Messages
1,989
Location
midwest
Your talking 6k......... you want out at the limiter with a hair of clutch slip.

Youll need to burnout for so long that the tires will pull engine rpm down as well.
 

Jdm351

Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Messages
120
Location
Gilbert
I was hoping the 26 inch tire would help in the gear ratio dept. Rear suspension is all stock. I have a set of lca relo brackets, but was waiting to see how the tire alone would help. I just prefer the ride of factory suspension.
 

01bluesnake

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2009
Messages
3,431
Location
chicago burbs Des Plaines
A 26" slick worked great with my 3.31's when they were in. I cut 1.6 60's pulling the tires up on 6K dumps. I was out on a MT stiff side wall though, not a ET street. Also, may want to get bias front's soon with skinnies if you plan to run those rears. Slicks out back, and low profile radials up front aren't ideal for getting down the track safely. I had relo brackets and springs when i was cutting the 1.6's

Here's a vid of one track pass with the 26" slicks on

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1CcTuVc_lVs
 
Last edited:

jjd975

Member
Established Member
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
145
Location
Louisville, KY
What's up with that first pass? Clocks just wrong? Shows a 1.40 60', 7.7 1/8 and even a much faster 1000'..... but 1/4 falls in line with the rest.

On my old 5.0 I was dumping clutch around 5500. You just have to play around with different launch rpm.
 

Jdm351

Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Messages
120
Location
Gilbert
Yes, clocks were screwy on that first run. Seemed like about .6 behind reality. They had some time clock problems earlier that night.

I am worried about the stock rear end. Do I need axles and tube welding before regularly launching at 6k?

Regarding the radial front and bias rears, I ran them on another car for years. It never felt dangerous until I approached the 130 mph trap speeds. I didn't feel any issue on Friday with this car.
 

lindermant

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2005
Messages
204
Location
Virginia
I'm running the same wheels/tires on my '05. I run 15psi cold and launch at 6500 rpm - best 60' so far is 1.576 (302 rwhp, 3490 lb race weight). Raise the launch RPM and let that thing eat!

launch_gif_11_zps2b9eefc8.gif
 

throthaduece85

spinning not winning
Established Member
Joined
May 6, 2013
Messages
456
Location
Houston TX
yup, bump up the rpm to the 6-7k zone and you will see the 1.6 stuff, its also easier (on the driver) with a two step. And as Scalla said, yea it needs a tune. Dead hooks at high rpm break stuff more easily. A shade of wheel spin wont bog the motor as much and help save driveline components.
 

Jdm351

Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Messages
120
Location
Gilbert
Alright thanks all for the feedback. I will have a tune eventually, but still a little worried about warranty since the car is only 4 months old. I'll accelerate the time table though if I can't reach my goals.
 

jjd975

Member
Established Member
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
145
Location
Louisville, KY
Sadly part of racing is breaking so don't be shocked if you break a axle or the diff/gears. It's also hard on the tranny. Some guys get lucky and never break, others not so much.
 

throthaduece85

spinning not winning
Established Member
Joined
May 6, 2013
Messages
456
Location
Houston TX
"They" might be able to tell but it's all in your approach/presentation at the warranty level when things get questionable. If you bring in a car with a bunch of rubber in the fender wells and noisy exhaust it will get attention in a bad way. My first attempt at getting a warranty repair was from launching on the stickiest of stickiest track prep at 5k on slicks. Dead hook and chewed up the spider gears. Stock wheels were on it when it got towed in but they weren't stupid as there was off road exhaust, suspension stuff and rubber in the wheel wells. Denied. Second go round was for the trans, cleaned that shit off and put the cats back on. Then shortly after dropping the car off I had to "get something" from my car. The advisor pointed out the tech who would be working on it as well, I went and said hi and said there was something for the effort on the seat ($50). Techs don't get tipped often, so that's scoring points with the first guy who can say "not warranty". Now an engine might be a different story lol. But they had the trans rebuilt that week. Point is, make nice with the guy turning the wrench. The advisor gets paid whether it's warranty or customer pay. Tech does too but warranty time blows.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top