new setup issues- looking for insight

encasedmetal

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hey everybody- I started up my newest setup last week and it has a high idle of 1700rpm and I'm concerned the iat2 temps are too high.

the setup consists of a built motor 10:1CR, big cams, built fuel system, trans, rear etc. it ran very well with the procharger f1a setup I had previously but I recently put on a KB 2.6h with sct2600 maf, JLT RAI, accufab SBTB, 160*tstat, fluidyne heat exchanger and a ton of other stuff.

anyways- for the high idle I have set the tps at 0.97V, cleaned the IAC valve, smoke tested and sprayed all potential vacuum sites with brake cleaner and nothing has changed the idle. I have also verified 12V at the iac plug. The first time I started the car with the KB I unplugged the iac and it came down to 1200 rpm. ever since, unplugging the iac changes nothing and it stays at 1700 rpm. is the iac valve ****ed?

***in an effort for idle solutions I am posting how I have everything routed on the blower:

PCV port under the intake>big barb on back of blower>driver side valve cover> catch can
pass side valve cover>JLT RAI
boost bypass>boost gauge
aeromotive FPR>port on driver back side blower manifold
vacuum line out of firewall>barb on inlet closest to TB
middle port on inlet>barb on JLT RAI pre TB
egr blocked off

my other potential issue are the iat2 temps. It's currently 39*F outside and after letting it sit at 1700rpm for a few minutes and the coolant temp coming up to 194-199 (stays consistent) the iat2 is showing at 124*F which seems pretty high to me considering the outside temp and me just reversing the car 10 feet out of the garage. The intercooler pump is working well as the coolant in the IC tank looks like a whirlpool. I pressure tested the coolant system and IC system, them vacuum filled them so air is not in the system.

any thoughts here? thanks in advance
 
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Rambro

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I remember reading on here that aftermarket cams can cause high iat's. I think it has to do with the overlap, maybe someone with more knowledge will chime in
 

encasedmetal

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With where I have mine degreed there is only 1 degree of overlap. So you agree those Temps are high for idle in 39 degree weather?
 

cozmo2806

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Yes those seem high. Was that 1 degree of overlap measured at .050 or adv duration?
 

racebronco2

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KB's all run hot. It has more to do with where they located the sensor at. It doesn't get much airflow. If i remember correctly it is near one of the cylinders. On the cobra manifold it is near the bypass valve so it gets cooler air. My friends 2.6 on a 2v runs about the same as your temps and they also have cams in their car. On my car my the ait2's are about 40* higher at idle. Once the car gets moving it's drops quickly usually about 30* higher in city driving, on the highway it's about 20* higher than the ait2's.
 

encasedmetal

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KB's all run hot. It has more to do with where they located the sensor at. It doesn't get much airflow. If i remember correctly it is near one of the cylinders. On the cobra manifold it is near the bypass valve so it gets cooler air. My friends 2.6 on a 2v runs about the same as your temps and they also have cams in their car. On my car my the ait2's are about 40* higher at idle. Once the car gets moving it's drops quickly usually about 30* higher in city driving, on the highway it's about 20* higher than the ait2's.

good to know. thanks for the insight
 

encasedmetal

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in an effort for idle solutions I am posting how I have everything routed on the blower:

PCV port under the intake>big barb on back of blower>driver side valve cover> catch can
pass side valve cover>JLT RAI
boost bypass>boost gauge
aeromotive FPR>port on driver back side blower manifold
vacuum line out of firewall>barb on inlet closest to TB
middle port on inlet>barb on JLT RAI pre TB
egr blocked off
 

encasedmetal

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I smoke tested again tonight with a boatload of smoke and found some coming out of my catch can. previously I had both valve covers going to my catch can, but with this setup I only had the driver side valve cover going to the catch can. so I read up on this config and it seems its a vacuum leak that way. sure enough I unhooked the hoses and put my thumb over the end and it went down to 1490-1500rpm. so I made it to where the driver valve cover is feeding straight to the T going to both the bottom of the intake and the big barb on the inlet. still stays around 1490-1500, and if I unplug the iac it goes down just a hair which is new. so I turned the battery off and cleared the memory to give the car a chance to learn but haven't had a chance to start the car again. will keep this going in case I find a solution and others ever have the same problem. any insight from others is more than welcome. thanks
 

ashleyroachclip

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Do you have the return spring g installed?
I had a similar problem with high idle in my V10, sometimes it was fine , other times not .
Found the return spring was not installed, I am assuming when the original owner installed the cold air .
 

xtreme_exploder

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I know it sounds silly, but is the IAC on the right way? I put mine on backwards when I first did the Whipple crusher on my car. If it isn't on the right way, the engine vacuum will pull it open and it'll idle at about where yours is.
 

encasedmetal

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I know it sounds silly, but is the IAC on the right way? I put mine on backwards when I first did the Whipple crusher on my car. If it isn't on the right way, the engine vacuum will pull it open and it'll idle at about where yours is.

plug side of iac is pointing at tb so it's on the right way. thanks for the suggestion though
 

encasedmetal

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wanted to update the thread with the info given to me on another forum- that my vaccum line going from my jlt to one of the barbs on my inlet is creating a leak as well witht he way it's configured. I have rectified this but haven't started the car yet. too busy with bodywork on another project to roll it out yesterday. I will post once I do in the instance that someone has this issue in the future.
 

encasedmetal

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SOOOOOOO, I've really got something going on now. went to relearn the idle tonight per the instructions posted earlier in the thread and the car wouldn't run- would fire up and immediately die. holding the throttle open so it sits at 1k rpm and it runs rough, let off throttle and it dies. tried it with iac plugged in and not plugged in. rechecked all lines and connections- nothing missing. even rotated the maf to see if that was it- nope. reattached the line I had running from the inlet to the jlt and nothing changed. open the tb screw as far as I could and nothing. can anybody help me figure out wtf just happened to my car? thanks
 

encasedmetal

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Just wanted to finish out the thread for any future cobra owners experiencing the same issue, so here's my results post from another forum

RESULTS! checked every COP, all sensors (pw/resist), plugs were dripping in fuel, so I changed them out and pulled fuel out of the startup tune in increments- only after 30% did it start to idle without dying. so it was way rich but now idles and runs just fine (still rich though). so just wanted to post that. here's a pic of how it looks currently (dirty from other projects) and I got a call from a gentleman who made me an offer I can't refuse on the car as it sits so I'm letting it go if he shows with the cash
20150211_1744371_zpsea44da0c.jpg
 

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