New Personal Best that I'm HAPPY about: 2012 Mustang GT (CJ manifold/Comp stg 3's)

Carbd86GT

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Went out in January with the new set up and ran some half decent numbers but I wasn't satisfied. I knew the combo desperately needed gears and some suspension tweaks. So I installed 3.90's to replace the factory 3.31's and made some suspension adjustments and it all seems to have paid off, still with room to improve. Complete mod list in sig.

 

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Shadow Grey 03

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Hell yeah! Knew those changes would be beneficial for you. I really love NA cars, even though blown cars are fun. These newer 5.0s are just down right nasty. Where are you shifting it?
 

Carbd86GT

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Hell yeah! Knew those changes would be beneficial for you. I really love NA cars, even though blown cars are fun. These newer 5.0s are just down right nasty. Where are you shifting it?

I'm shifting at about 81-8200, shift light is set to 8k. I saw your reply in the other thread and you are correct, there is more left in the 60 foot, that's for sure. I made one more pass after this one but it got late and the track started to go away, still ran 10.84@128. Now I have some wildwood drag brakes going on up front, full tilt boogie rotors out back and some bumper supports.
 

Shadow Grey 03

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I'm shifting at about 81-8200, shift light is set to 8k. I saw your reply in the other thread and you are correct, there is more left in the 60 foot, that's for sure. I made one more pass after this one but it got late and the track started to go away, still ran 10.84@128. Now I have some wildwood drag brakes going on up front, full tilt boogie rotors out back and some bumper supports.

Guy I know has a similar setup with stupid light parts in the rear end and ported heads with the CJ manifold. It has been 10.50s@133. He was hoping to get into the 30s with a better 60'
These cars just get it done. Might have to get one to play with.
 

Carbd86GT

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Guy I know has a similar setup with stupid light parts in the rear end and ported heads with the CJ manifold. It has been 10.50s@133. He was hoping to get into the 30s with a better 60'
These cars just get it done. Might have to get one to play with.

That was my original intention as well but ran into an issue during install of the lightened/polished gears... the company I purchased the base gear set from shipped a set of F150 FRONT axle 8.8 gears to IW who I had do the machine work. Really put me in a bind so they shipped me another set of gears free of charge to get me ready for NMRA. Anyways, I'm setting up another rear with a spool and 9" ends so that will get a set of lightened/polished parts. Still tryin to decide what direction I want to go with the motor.
 

Carbd86GT

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Great pass! 1.4 sixties shouldn't be a problem if you can get it to hook.

I think it might be time for either a tire change (to an ET Drag) or a shock change (upgrade to Viking crusaders from the current Warriors) and adding adjustable struts with either. I’m going to try slipping the clutch a little next time to see if it will leave a little better.
 

persico

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I think it might be time for either a tire change (to an ET Drag) or a shock change (upgrade to Viking crusaders from the current Warriors) and adding adjustable struts with either. I’m going to try slipping the clutch a little next time to see if it will leave a little better.

Okay I looked at the video again. The rear is squatting to much. You don't have enough anti-squat. You first need to find out what your instant center is and go from there. Ideally you should see a little rise or separation between the rear quarter and the slick on the leave. I've seen a few fifth gen mustangs use the J&M (there are others) rear lower relocation brackets to put the instant center in the ball park. Just a thought. Good luck and keep us posted!
 

Carbd86GT

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Okay I looked at the video again. The rear is squatting to much. You don't have enough anti-squat. You first need to find out what your instant center is and go from there. Ideally you should see a little rise or separation between the rear quarter and the slick on the leave. I've seen a few fifth gen mustangs use the J&M (there are others) rear lower relocation brackets to put the instant center in the ball park. Just a thought. Good luck and keep us posted!

I had more anti-squat before and it was hitting the tires way too hard and would unload almost instantly. I have my LCA’s in the stock location now (parallel with the ground), where before they were in the middle hole. I still have plenty of room to stiffen up the shocks so I’ll be playing with that too.
 

persico

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"I still have plenty of room to stiffen up the shocks so I’ll be playing with that too"

Cool. That was my next suggestion. Also don't forget to adjust your front struts if you can. Also wanted to add that when everything is adjusted right you will see the rear separate as noted in my last post. Good luck!
 

persico

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I have a video of my old 9 second LX street car that shows good separation if I can figure out how to post it. It went 1.37 60's no matter what the track prep was like. That was many many years ago. I'm just a retired drag racer now :)
 

Carbd86GT

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"I still have plenty of room to stiffen up the shocks so I’ll be playing with that too"

Cool. That was my next suggestion. Also don't forget to adjust your front struts if you can. Also wanted to add that when everything is adjusted right you will see the rear separate as noted in my last post. Good luck!

I’m still running stock struts up front so no adjusting there but definitely on the short list. Was your old car a manual trans car?
 

persico

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Gotcha. It's always more money! Anyway the old car was a 408 nitrous car with a C-4 and a trans brake. I would let the brake go at about 4500 RPM. All my stick cars reacted the same when set up properly. I can't find any video of those though. Figures. Keep messing with it, you'll get it. You're close now....
 

persico

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Carb,

One last thing. I'm not sure if your running a radial slick or a bias ply (I'm assuming they're bias). If they are I would try going down a half a pound at a time to see if that helps. You will get to a point were you see a noticeable change in your 60' (and it will bog the engine in many cases). The reason I mention this is because I can't see much wrinkle in the sidewall in your video. Obviously the better the track prep the more pressure you can run (within reason) You may have tried this already but if not it's worth a shot. Good luck!
 

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