New halfshafts & other stuff being instaled

[racerat]

New halfshafts & other stuff being installed

Finally, the day has come! Halfshafts, MM bushings, driveshaft loop, coupe springs and CDC light bar install starts today! Hopefully I'll be back on the road by Sunday.

I've read and printed all the useful information I could find. Mustangs forums are a godsend! Is there anything else that can be done while the car is apart? Any fluids or oils that can/should be changed in the rear?

I'll try and take pics of as much as I can. If anyone wants something specific, let me know.

 

[SVT 03 Cobra]

best of luck tracy... get that monster back together and lets see some 11's..... let me know how those 1/2 shafts turn out.... are they pretty stout?

Jayson

 

[BLACK SUNSHINE]

racerat, I don't know if our diff comes with synthetic or not. I do not believe there is enough friction there like in the engine or trans to make a noticeable difference in performance by switching, anyway. I read a test where they got 10 hp on a dyno by switching to a full synthetic oil in all places.

 

[cobragb]

Hey Tracy,

What is the rate difference between the Vert springs and the Coupe?

Thanks,
Glen

 

[docs03]

Racerat

Let me know how the light bar install goes. Sre you doing it yourself?? I have one on order and am thinking of doing it my self.

doc

 

[racerat]

I believe the coupe springs are rated at 600lbs and the verts are 4XX...not sure exactly and I can't find the info at this moment.

The coupe springs are stiffer. Makes sense to put the softer springs on the heavier car huh?:shrug:

Thanks Jayson...I'm sure everything will go as planned. (NOT!) I haven't looked at the halfshafts yet. All I know is the box was heavy.;-)

BLACK SUNSHINE: We changed the tranny to synthetic a while ago. My rear diff is seeping (nothing drastic) and I'm wondering if that could/should be checked or changed??

Doc...yes, we're installing the light bar. You'd think that would be simple right? The parts/tools list is a mile long and it seems the whole friggin car needs to be disassembled.:nonono:

 

[BlKvNm]

GL yo yo

 

[SuperSonic]

Since you are changing the half shafts, I would change the fluid in the rear. I took mine completely out, took the cover off, drained it, cleaned it out, inspected the wear pattern on the gears and put some Redline 80W140 in it. The fluid that came out was kind or murky looking. No leaks or seepage as of this day.

 

[jtfx6552]

A few questions, Did you switch halfshafts because you broke one? If so what was the situation that caused the break, i.e. street tires, hop,no hop, ET streets, 5000 rpm launch? etc. Which halfshafts did you go to and how much $?

Thanks in advance,
JT

 

[94SVT Coupe]

Originally posted by racerat
The coupe springs are stiffer. Makes sense to put the softer springs on the heavier car huh?:shrug:

Look at it this way. The vert has the same springs as the 01 Cobras had (vert or not). The only change is the coupe got stiffer springs. It's not like they downgraded the vert springs or something.

 

[racerat]

I look at it like this...the 03 coupes aren't hopping as much as the verts. We all know the problems the 99/01's had with hop.

A friend is letting me try out his stock coupe springs for free. If my wheel hop is cured, then great! I'll replace his stockers. If it's not, then I'll get the Amazon kit or coilovers.

jtfx6552:
Yes, I broke the driver's side half shaft on an easy launch (1500-2k rpm) with Nitto 275 DR's. On that day, the track was very well prepped and the car did not hop. I've had serious problems with hop in the 9 months I've had the car however.

I sent my halfshafts to The Driveshaft Shop to have new centers installed and everything assembled. Cost was $650 for the set. I believe the centers that Amazon has now (not the new ones due out) are from the same place.

 

[slythetove]

Good luck T Rex!

Take pics. Lots of pics. And pay attention!!

 

[stang99]

The fix for the seep is to remove the cover and properly seal it. This fixed the problem on my car entirely. It is a PITA to remove the diff cover so you definitely should have all that done now. You should also look at the condition of the limited slip stuff since it can wear out very quickly on these cars.

Originally posted by racerat
My rear diff is seeping (nothing drastic) and I'm wondering if that could/should be checked or changed??

 

[racerat]

Originally posted by Tetge
The fix for the seep is to remove the cover and properly seal it. This fixed the problem on my car entirely. It is a PITA to remove the diff cover so you definitely should have all that done now. You should also look at the condition of the limited slip stuff since it can wear out very quickly on these cars.

Did you do this yourself? Is there detailed info on the boards anywhere?

 

[BLACK SUNSHINE]

racerat, they fixed my seeping leak under warranty. I think redline would be a good idea for your diff if you are doing it anyway. I sure am happy with what it did for my tranny. Going with synthetic in the diff may make it last a little longer, but I do not think there will be any performance gains. I read on here about someone going to a Torsen Diff like F-bodies use. They have no clutches to wear out. Their website has some cool info, but I ditched the link when I traded my Ram Air to come over here to the darkside.

 

[stang99]

The Ford dealer fixed the seep under warranty but my good friend is the mechanic at the deaership and he did the work. He said that getting the cover off the diff was a PITA but then he just applied some sealant and put it back again. It came basically unsealed from the factory. He used the stock Ford diff fluids when he put it back together, but I have used RedLine on other Mustangs with good results.

Originally posted by racerat
Did you do this yourself? Is there detailed info on the boards anywhere?