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Fox-Body Cobras
New Clutch: spec or king cobra?
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<blockquote data-quote="stangbear427" data-source="post: 4963948" data-attributes="member: 46931"><p>Come on Lee, you know way too much to not understand how this works. The only thing a FWA does is change tension on the cable. If you tighten it enough to make a KC clutch grab and release any higher than it does with the stock quadrant then all you've done is pre-load the clutch fork, which compromises it's ability to fully engage. The ramp of after market quadrants can change the speed and feel of the release, but it does this by manipulating the arc of the cable path, not the height of the pedal- although it does feel that way with a "speed release" design like UPR's single hook, Pro5.0's single hook, or the beautiful Fiore piece. Ultimately there is only one tension that is right. Too tight or too loose, while you may like the location of the engagement, is still out of ideal specs for the clutch. If you can't easily with two fingers pull the plastic jamb of the cable casing away from the FWA far enough to slide nickel in, it's too tight and you're losing clamp load, not to mention forcing the throwout bearing to stay continually engaged which can wear it out prematurely. </p><p>The KC clutch was designed to grab right where it does. You can see it if you put it's disc and pressure plate side by side with a spec, McLoud, Ram, or Centerforce (the ones I've had for comparison). The disc is thinner, and the diaphragm of the pressure plate is different to accommodate it. That's why so many people doing TKO conversions had trouble using their KC pressure plates with other brand discs with the new spline count- they were too thick for the KC pressure plate, so there wasn't room for them to completely disengage before the pedal hit the floor without using an extended clutch fork or over tightening the cable, which still wasn't enough in some cases. (like mine)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="stangbear427, post: 4963948, member: 46931"] Come on Lee, you know way too much to not understand how this works. The only thing a FWA does is change tension on the cable. If you tighten it enough to make a KC clutch grab and release any higher than it does with the stock quadrant then all you've done is pre-load the clutch fork, which compromises it's ability to fully engage. The ramp of after market quadrants can change the speed and feel of the release, but it does this by manipulating the arc of the cable path, not the height of the pedal- although it does feel that way with a "speed release" design like UPR's single hook, Pro5.0's single hook, or the beautiful Fiore piece. Ultimately there is only one tension that is right. Too tight or too loose, while you may like the location of the engagement, is still out of ideal specs for the clutch. If you can't easily with two fingers pull the plastic jamb of the cable casing away from the FWA far enough to slide nickel in, it's too tight and you're losing clamp load, not to mention forcing the throwout bearing to stay continually engaged which can wear it out prematurely. The KC clutch was designed to grab right where it does. You can see it if you put it's disc and pressure plate side by side with a spec, McLoud, Ram, or Centerforce (the ones I've had for comparison). The disc is thinner, and the diaphragm of the pressure plate is different to accommodate it. That's why so many people doing TKO conversions had trouble using their KC pressure plates with other brand discs with the new spline count- they were too thick for the KC pressure plate, so there wasn't room for them to completely disengage before the pedal hit the floor without using an extended clutch fork or over tightening the cable, which still wasn't enough in some cases. (like mine) [/QUOTE]
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New Clutch: spec or king cobra?
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