New clutch/PP/Flywheel - issues

[Gruca]

I put in a Mcleod Extreme Street clutch and PP with a Mcleod lightened steel flywheel. I’m 100 miles into the break in process. When using reverse, stopping, then trying to go into 1st (or 2nd), I cannot. It won’t go in at all. I can use 3rd and start going, then 1st and 2nd work just fine. While moving, everything seems fine. Only when using reverse then trying to go forward do I have an issue with 1st and 2nd. What could I have screwed up?

 

[RUgoinup?]

Could need more bleeding or throwout/Pilot bearing/slave cylinder issues. SS clutch line/GT500 master cylinder help as well.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/my-new-mcleod-rst-clutch-wont-fully-disengage.12397/

https://lmr.com/products/Common-Mustang-Clutch-Problems-Causes-Solutions

 

[Gruca]

I have the SS line and GT500 master in there. Pilot bearing is new, reused slave as the car only had 20k on the clock. I’ll keep pumping that damn pedal though.

 

[RUgoinup?]

My car has had the same issues for a year! Clutch is currently at McLeod getting looked at.

Some say put a new slave in regardless of miles. Hope the bleeding works for ya.

 

[Gruca]

Could need more bleeding or throwout/Pilot bearing/slave cylinder issues. SS clutch line/GT500 master cylinder help as well.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/my-new-mcleod-rst-clutch-wont-fully-disengage.12397/

https://lmr.com/products/Common-Mustang-Clutch-Problems-Causes-Solutions

I read through your thread and the difference I come across is that the car shifts into any gear perfectly UNLESS I was just in reverse and actually moved the car backwards (IE backing out of a parking space). After that is when I can’t get into 1st or 2nd. When starting off without driving in reverse, I can use any gear I want without an issue.

 

[basspro302]

When i install the hydraulic throwout bearing i put the line end in a bucket of brake fluid and squeeze it till the air is removed and brakefluid has filled it then cap the line (i made my own) then install it in the trans.

You can also try and pull a vacuum on the master but you will need a mighty vac and the addapter for the master.

Set it up and jack stands and see what the rear tires are doing when shifting.

 

[hand-filer]

Ive always used vacuum to bleed the slave cylinder and have never had issues. Mityvac and a modified sink drain stopper gets the job done in 10 minutes.

 

[Gruca]

And, for whatever reason, it works fine now...

 

[StalkerStang]

I believe the issue might be related to slave to pressure plate gap. The extreme street I don't think is the same distance as the stock one. If it's hard to get into gear stopped then the slave is probably too far from diaphragm springs.

I had that clutch for a few weeks and hated it. Bad street manners, hard to get into gear, and it didn't shift well at 7500+.

I switched to a RST... should have done so from the start.

Sent from my [device_name] using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[03Sssnake]

I believe the issue might be related to slave to pressure plate gap. The extreme street I don't think is the same distance as the stock one. If it's hard to get into gear stopped then the slave is probably too far from diaphragm springs.

I had that clutch for a few weeks and hated it. Bad street manners, hard to get into gear, and it didn't shift well at 7500+.

I switched to a RST... should have done so from the start.

Sent from my [device_name] using the svtperformance.com mobile app

bingo, have learned that one the hard way on past cars, ended up pulling the trans and shimming the slave cylinder/tob to move it closer to pressure plate fingers. Usually the manufacturer is good about specifying whether or not a shim/shims are needed for your application.

 

[Gruca]

I don’t have the gear lockout issues anymore. However, now I have a loud clunk when pressing or releasing the clutch pedal. It doesn’t always happen though. Mostly when I go fast or when not slipping the crap out of the clutch. Have about 1,000 miles on the clutch so far. And I have a 1 piece driveshaft, so it’s not from the stock 2 piece.

 

[RUgoinup?]

Check your diff bushing.

 

[lshin037]

Thanks for the update, OP. Been researching for a new clutch and I was interested in the Street Extreme since I feel the RXT/RST is a bit too much for my needs. It seems the only people having success with this clutch are the Cobra crowd. I could only find 2 people (OP and StalkerStang) reporting on this clutch in the Coyote forums and they've been having problems. Leaning towards the Exedy 600. It's less than $600 for the kit that includes a new TOB and pilot bearing.

 

[Gruca]

Thanks for the update, OP. Been researching for a new clutch and I was interested in the Street Extreme since I feel the RXT/RST is a bit too much for my needs. It seems the only people having success with this clutch are the Cobra crowd. I could only find 2 people (OP and StalkerStang) reporting on this clutch in the Coyote forums and they've been having problems. Leaning towards the Exedy 600. It's less than $600 for the kit that includes a new TOB and pilot bearing.

I had the Exedy on my 2010 and really liked it. I should’ve went that route again. I’m regretting the Mcleod.