new build thread :-)

brian97cobra

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so after several failures do you poor builder choice and other factors that were outside of my control...... ive finally decided to build another motor and should be done soon. ill have to get pictures when I get the parts but yea im excited.

so this new build consist of:

97 cobra teksid block
arp 2000 head and main studs
arp cam and crank bolts
eagle 3.543 stroke 4340 crankshaft
stock 03 cobra windage tray
TSS billet oil pump gears
03 cobra heads (9 thread) may have them ported.... $$ will decide in the end
custom bullet racing cams
cloyes billet timing components
ATI super harmonic balancer
manley 4340 billet steel 5.933 rods
canton oil pan
custom diamond pistons with all the works including the double diamond coating and all the other custom fancy stuff
9.5 to 1 compresson

the sra is built
t56 is built
McLeod rxt twin disc with billet steel flywheel

magna fuel 750 pump -10 feed -8 return
id1000 injectors
aeromotive pro series regulator
fore fuel rails
99/01 cobra upper and lower intake

precision cea 7675 turbo blow thru setup


car made 988 rwhp and 891 rwtq last time with 25 psi before the head gasket failure and a slipping clutch.

im shooting for 1000+ rwhp and 950 rwtq this go around.

on the street tune she made 780 rwhp and 728 rwtq with 16.5 psi.

street tune shooting for 800+ rwhp and 750 rwtq.


Im going from 8.8 to 1 compression and 329 ci to 283ci and 9.5 to 1 compression.

same boost.


wish me luck.


here are the old dyno video's and the dyno sheets

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9t_fA6O5KMU&list=UUi3lzieHfKtLW2VU-gEYJJg&index=2

had 5 people in the car 3 in the trunk and still hazed the tired :dw:

artliz_std_zpsaa1eracy.jpg
 
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brian97cobra

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im a little worried about my stock manley rods though...

just don't wanna drop 1500 for billet i-beam rods but may just say to hell with it and do it.

your thoughts?


before I had billet rods but trying to keep it a little more budget friendly this time
 

brian97cobra

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You should upgrade rods for the power goals you want to achieve.

yea I cant seem to get that off my mind. also the stock crank is not as good as the replacement cranks from Kellogg either....

I just don't really want have to pay for all this stuff over again :(

ive heard of several people running my power levels on stock stuff so I believe it will hold but its just so stressful because of all the failures I have had.
 

badcobra

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Tons of guys making 1000+ on stock crank and rods. How often have we ever seen a Manley rod failure in these cars? Get your crank and rods cryo treated if you are really that concerned. I really think you are over-thinking it.

The rods you posted look nice, but I am betting they are made in China with Chinese steel and that's why they are so cheap. I would steer clear unless you can find out if they are american made.
 

brian97cobra

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Tons of guys making 1000+ on stock crank and rods. How often have we ever seen a Manley rod failure in these cars? Get your crank and rods cryo treated if you are really that concerned. I really think you are over-thinking it.

The rods you posted look nice, but I am betting they are made in China with Chinese steel and that's why they are so cheap. I would steer clear unless you can find out if they are american made.

http://www.k1technologies.com/ConnectingRodInformation/tabid/77/Default.aspx

They are owned by weisco. Weisco is usa
 

brian97cobra

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im just not sure the stock h-beams will be good enough...

I like insurance.

so maybe ill get the oliver billet I-beam rods

damn I hate they are so expensive.
 

badcobra

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If you can drum up the cash for the Oliver rods, by all means do it. All I can tell you is I have beat my stock cryo treated rods to death on an every week basis for years with the last two being just about 1000whp through an auto and I've never had an issue. If I still had a stick, I'd be at about 1050-1100HP at my boost level. My car's only job is to drive to where the fast cars and liter bikes are and deliver beatdowns. Oh, and I drove it to work today :)

Anyway, I understand why you are nervous. I too had a lot of issues with breakage when I first went turbo and let the car sit for several years. Last effort was to build another teksid block, reuse my stock crank and rods, JE flat top pistons, fix the fuel system and switch to e85. Been rock solid since. Good luck man.
 

brian97cobra

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If you can drum up the cash for the Oliver rods, by all means do it. All I can tell you is I have beat my stock cryo treated rods to death on an every week basis for years with the last two being just about 1000whp through an auto and I've never had an issue. If I still had a stick, I'd be at about 1050-1100HP at my boost level. My car's only job is to drive to where the fast cars and liter bikes are and deliver beatdowns. Oh, and I drove it to work today :)

Anyway, I understand why you are nervous. I too had a lot of issues with breakage when I first went turbo and let the car sit for several years. Last effort was to build another teksid block, reuse my stock crank and rods, JE flat top pistons, fix the fuel system and switch to e85. Been rock solid since. Good luck man.



I said screw it whats another $1280 bucks!

I bought the manley billet I-beam rods and im selling my stock h-beam rods with arp 2000 hardware. arp bolts are brand new

asking $575 shipped obo
 
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brian97cobra

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so besides doing the usual to a teksid block am I missing anything?

what I have done:
arp main studs
timing guide pin upgrade
arp side bolts


I just feel im missing something?
 

brian97cobra

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The Cobra engineering secondary tensioner upgrade! Don't forget that one!

secondary tensioner upgrade, and if you want to upgrade the chains you can as well.

I already have that and his head cooling mod.

I think I'm in the clear here

I went all out on the pistons. Tool steel top rings custom diamonds with their double diamond anodized coating and then the top and skirts are moly coated. 320 top ring land. 360 thick skirt.
 

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