New ADS Meastro Dash Kit 2013 test fit installed

Mushtang

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I have the brackets slid forward until it stops against the front plastic, then lifted it up a little and slid it forward another mm. I have not put everything back together yet. I first had problems with my flashes. Volume buttons were reversed and buttons did not work. Now my steering controls work fine and my buttons work on the MUS but the rear defrost does not work on the MUS and also in the headunit.
Could be a couple of things causing that rear defrost.

Try going into the climate screen, press SETTINGS, and choose MANUAL as the CLIMATE TYPE. Somehow, you must have set it for Single Zone Auto. Try that and let me know.

Also I found this fix on another forum: "I had to flash it with the "Synch with audio buttons" steering wheel option (even though mine is the base model with none of those) in order for the buttons on the button bar to work. This is a workaround, I was sure to deselect the Synch and Audio steering wheel options as I proceeded to flash the module."

Hopefully that helps.
 

12V Guy

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Could be a couple of things causing that rear defrost.

Try going into the climate screen, press SETTINGS, and choose MANUAL as the CLIMATE TYPE. Somehow, you must have set it for Single Zone Auto. Try that and let me know.

Also I found this fix on another forum: "I had to flash it with the "Synch with audio buttons" steering wheel option (even though mine is the base model with none of those) in order for the buttons on the button bar to work. This is a workaround, I was sure to deselect the Synch and Audio steering wheel options as I proceeded to flash the module."

Hopefully that helps.
port
The firmware was updated to correct the need to flash with SW buttons. It works properly now. I suggest contacting ADS technical support so we can help you troubleshoot.
 

12V Guy

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I have the brackets slid forward until it stops against the front plastic, then lifted it up a little and slid it forward another mm. I have not put everything back together yet. I first had problems with my flashes. Volume buttons were reversed and buttons did not work. Now my steering controls work fine and my buttons work on the MUS but the rear defrost does not work on the MUS and also in the headunit.

When you say it does not work on the head unit or the button bar, it leads me to believe you do not have the car running when you are testing. The car has to be running or the rear defrost does not turn on. Factory radio was same.
 

Mushtang

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When you say it does not work on the head unit or the button bar, it leads me to believe you do not have the car running when you are testing. The car has to be running or the rear defrost does not turn on. Factory radio was same.

Andddddd you got it. That can be confusing when the fronts work even though the car is off. For rears, car needs to be on. >.< Thanks 12VGuy!
 

Mushtang

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Crud, I also had a couple of questions...

From the reading I have done in this thread, I have come to understand that we need to program the buttons on the Maestro buttons to do what our choices are for those three to do. And that the only way this can be changed is to remove the entire unit to re-program it. So here are my questions. Is this true (Having to remove it)? And what choices did you make, or correct to as what you originally thought was your top five buttons turned out to be different?...

The one other question popped into my mind... When opening the Kenwood unit, do those of us with an automatic need to place the shift selector into drive in order for the face-plate to not hit it as we change CD's/DVD's? Or is there enough clearance between the shift selector in park and the unit when fully open?

In preparation for this Kenwood HD, I just purchased a new Factory rear spoiler, painted Ruby Red with the factory camera installed already. Here is what I know...

I need to find a factory plug either from Ford or somewhere to plug into the new camera on the spoiler, and wiring to run up to the head unit.

Any ideas where to get these?

Also...

I plan to purchase the DNX891HD head-unit in October or November (Black Friday comes to mind), but when looking at the owners manual it looks like the Camera connection is RCA, and I see the wire I am to plug into the Reverse wire... I however also see the CMOS connections.

So here are my questions on that...

Which set of connections do I use?

Do I need to get the Ford wires/connection or is this one of those items I will find "Pre-wired" in the car and all I have to do is connect the connections and we are done?

And as for the spoiler...

Is there a thread somewhere I missed when searching that walks us through removing and then mounting the new spoiler?

Thank you!
Just wanted to give you a heads up that there is a special for SVT Performance Forum members on a hugh package with everything from Sound of Tri-State:
Package Price ends up being $1499.99 for Brand New DNN991HD, ADSKITMUS1, ADSMRR, CRAB (antenna adapter) SXV200V1 SiriusXM Tuner and Antenna, Boyo VTL422C Bar Type Backup Rear View Camera, here's the link
http://www.soundoftristate.com/kenwood-excelon-dnn991hd-ads-maestro-adskitmus1-adsmrr-scosche-crab-boyo-vtl422c-and-siriusxm-sxv200v1-package-dealThis is a package deal for everything you need for your Mustang. This is the BRAND NEW DNN991HD Excelon in Dash Navigation receiver with Wifi, built in Bluetooth and HD Radio Packaged together with the ADS Maestro Kit and Steering Wheel Control Adapter which includes the Interface adapter for retaining your Climate controls, chimes and all that Jazz. We've also thrown in the License Plate Bar Type Rear View Backup Camera and the Antenna Adapter needed for installation. This is Everything you need for your vehicle.
We use coupon Code: SOTS300 at checkout and it marks down the price to $1499.99
 
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scott_0

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I can vouch for sound of tristate, I got my 890hd and maestro kit from them last year. they're local to me, they've been around for ever, and they're well known and respected
 

DIB2014

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I have the brackets slid forward until it stops against the front plastic, then lifted it up a little and slid it forward another mm. I have not put everything back together yet. I first had problems with my flashes. Volume buttons were reversed and buttons did not work. Now my steering controls work fine and my buttons work on the MUS but the rear defrost does not work on the MUS and also in the headunit.

Thanks KonaFifity - that is basically where I have mine now - brackets against the front plastic "stops" on the Kenwood.

Sounds like you were happy with the fit when the MUS1 Dash Kit was applied. Will give it a go!
 

VGT

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Sound of Tristate set me up with a pretty killer deal, definitely give them a shot if you're getting ready to pull the trigger on a setup.
 

S197Probie

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Just wanted to give you a heads up that there is a special for SVT Performance Forum members on a hugh package with everything from Sound of Tri-State:
Package Price ends up being $1499.99 for Brand New DNN991HD, ADSKITMUS1, ADSMRR, CRAB (antenna adapter) SXV200V1 SiriusXM Tuner and Antenna, Boyo VTL422C Bar Type Backup Rear View Camera, here's the link
http://www.soundoftristate.com/kenwood-excelon-dnn991hd-ads-maestro-adskitmus1-adsmrr-scosche-crab-boyo-vtl422c-and-siriusxm-sxv200v1-package-dealThis is a package deal for everything you need for your Mustang. This is the BRAND NEW DNN991HD Excelon in Dash Navigation receiver with Wifi, built in Bluetooth and HD Radio Packaged together with the ADS Maestro Kit and Steering Wheel Control Adapter which includes the Interface adapter for retaining your Climate controls, chimes and all that Jazz. We've also thrown in the License Plate Bar Type Rear View Backup Camera and the Antenna Adapter needed for installation. This is Everything you need for your vehicle.
We use coupon Code: SOTS300 at checkout and it marks down the price to $1499.99

Well now that is a nice deal. I am thinking of getting the system from Crutchfield because they offer support, and for just a few $$ more after the current rebate when compared to Tri-State. As I have asked a few questions that must have only happened to a very small crowd with their being no responses to the questions. I have asked on other sites mind you. But I am one that like to have a really good idea as to what I am going to need and what may happen along the way so I can over buy parts... Have my music going... And "De-stress" an entire weekend as I install the system.
 

12V Guy

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Here are a couple answers. We also have tech support to help you.

Crud, I also had a couple of questions...

From the reading I have done in this thread, I have come to understand that we need to program the buttons on the Maestro buttons to do what our choices are for those three to do. And that the only way this can be changed is to remove the entire unit to re-program it. So here are my questions. Is this true (Having to remove it)? And what choices did you make, or correct to as what you originally thought was your top five buttons turned out to be different?...

<<<Only the MRR needs to be removed from the car. It cannot be flashed when connected to the vehicle power. You can be creative about where you put it so you can pull it out without <<<having to take your dash apart. t-harness is pretty long.


The one other question popped into my mind... When opening the Kenwood unit, do those of us with an automatic need to place the shift selector into drive in order for the face-plate to not hit it as we change CD's/DVD's? Or is there enough clearance between the shift selector in park and the unit when fully open?

<<<Yes, this was tested when kit was built. the screen clears the shifter in park.

In preparation for this Kenwood HD, I just purchased a new Factory rear spoiler, painted Ruby Red with the factory camera installed already. Here is what I know...

I need to find a factory plug either from Ford or somewhere to plug into the new camera on the spoiler, and wiring to run up to the head unit.

Any ideas where to get these?

Also...

I plan to purchase the DNX891HD head-unit in October or November (Black Friday comes to mind), but when looking at the owners manual it looks like the Camera connection is RCA, and I see the wire I am to plug into the Reverse wire... I however also see the CMOS connections.

<<<Maestro RR provides a reverse wire from the bus to trigger camera input on the Kenwood. You should not, however, power the camera from this connection. Connect the ground to <<<ground and the power to the red accessory from Maestro/Kenwood. This also makes it possible to view the camera manually when you are not in reverse - See Kenwood OG.

So here are my questions on that...

Which set of connections do I use?

<<<You should only use the CMOS310 connections if you have that camera. Otherwise don't use them. they control different views in the Kenwood camera.

Do I need to get the Ford wires/connection or is this one of those items I will find "Pre-wired" in the car and all I have to do is connect the connections and we are done?

And as for the spoiler...

Is there a thread somewhere I missed when searching that walks us through removing and then mounting the new spoiler?

Thank you!
 

VGT

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I could use a little help!

Got everything, but I'm a bit confused. I started mocking up what needs to be connected to the Maestro, and the installation diagram shows a blue connector, that is part of the T harness, going into the Maestro (Step 9):

ScreenShot2014-08-28at65526PM.png


However, my T harness does not have a blue connector, and a separate connector came inside the Maestro box with a blue connector, on the other end is a 3.5mm jack and a green wire (on the right, not connected):

E91BEB93-9171-4748-BC68-ADC47EEB64A7.jpg


What am I supposed to do here?
 

Mushtang

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Well now that is a nice deal. I am thinking of getting the system from Crutchfield because they offer support, and for just a few $$ more after the current rebate when compared to Tri-State. As I have asked a few questions that must have only happened to a very small crowd with their being no responses to the questions. I have asked on other sites mind you. But I am one that like to have a really good idea as to what I am going to need and what may happen along the way so I can over buy parts... Have my music going... And "De-stress" an entire weekend as I install the system.

Just fyi Sound of Tri-State is an authorized dealer for Kenwood as well and the rebate is also offered until the expiration which expires on the 31st of August. They also have technicians on hand that can answer any questions. If you wanted something a little less expensive they have the refurbished DNN packages as well. Just keep in mind refurbs don't have a rebate offer and they have a 90 day warranty. Remanufactured Package link is here: http://www.soundoftristate.com/remanufactured-kenwood-excelon-dnn991hd-ads-maestro-adskitmus1-adsmrr-scosche-crab-boyo-vtl422c-and-siriusxm-sxv200v1-package-deal It's worth it to get the new though, there's no coupon code on remans and its only $200 difference between the two.
 

Mushtang

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I could use a little help!

Got everything, but I'm a bit confused. I started mocking up what needs to be connected to the Maestro, and the installation diagram shows a blue connector, that is part of the T harness, going into the Maestro (Step 9):

ScreenShot2014-08-28at65526PM.png


However, my T harness does not have a blue connector, and a separate connector came inside the Maestro box with a blue connector, on the other end is a 3.5mm jack and a green wire (on the right, not connected):

E91BEB93-9171-4748-BC68-ADC47EEB64A7.jpg


What am I supposed to do here?
The blue connection (E) would go into the maestro module (E), the blue yellow (you called it blue green but its actually blue yellow if you look a little closer) wire coming from the other end would plug into the back of the Kenwood headunit go together with the blue yellow wire coming from the kenwood headunit.

use the 3.5mm if you are installing a headunit other than Kenwood and if you are installing a kenwood headunit then you hook up the blue yellow wire off of the Kenwood harness to the blue yellow wire that you see there.

Hopefully that helps you out.
 

Mushtang

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VGT

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Okay, that helps a little bit (the attachment does not work). I'll hook the free wire from the blue connector up to the steering wheel input wire. Then I leave the 3.5mm unattached?

The wiring diagram is unfortunately very confusing as it shows the blue connector as being part of the T-Harness, and then a separate 3.5mm cord going from the Maestro to the iDatalink 3.5 on the headunit.
 

Mushtang

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Okay, that helps a little bit (the attachment does not work). I'll hook the free wire from the blue connector up to the steering wheel input wire. Then I leave the 3.5mm unattached?

The wiring diagram is unfortunately very confusing as it shows the blue connector as being part of the T-Harness, and then a separate 3.5mm cord going from the Maestro to the iDatalink 3.5 on the headunit.
Yes that's correct. The 3.5mm is not used if you are installing the Kenwood deck. That kenwood deck has a blue yellow wiring coming from the power harness labeled "steering wheel remote input" you connect those wires together.
 

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