New '96 Cobra Owner.. Tons of questions!

Serfma

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An awesome buddy of mine found a spare steel tensioner that's shipped my way so that should take care of my tensioner problems!
 

venom1997

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An awesome buddy of mine found a spare steel tensioner that's shipped my way so that should take care of my tensioner problems!
Awesome man it works great especially with the kenne bell I run mine in the tight side part number can be seen on the housing F8ZE-6B209-BB
 

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Serfma

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Awesome man it works great especially with the kenne bell I run mine in the tight side part number can be seen on the housing F8ZE-6B209-BB

Lol!!! I was just getting ready to come here to ask if anyone's used this tensioner arm and how they got around not having the 1/2 square hole to move the tensioner arm. I planned on a bolt but hey that picture solved my questions quick.

What do you mean "in the tight side"? I've been having problems with tensioning the belt on the passenger side to what I thought was the belt coming loose but I'm thinking if the tensioner arm of last was twisting or bending that it'd be causing the issue but it's a pretty long run for my belt since I have an added 3" height from the custom aftercooler.
 

venom1997

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I’m running a K061058HD belt and it’s super tight on the tensioner side the green belts don’t flex and stretch like a regular belt so it keeps constant hard tension I get just a little slip but not much 14 psi with a 2.25 inch pulley and stock crank
 

Serfma

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If you look I only have about 1/4 inch before it hits the stop so that’s on the tight side of the tensioner

Perfect - I was concerned with how my belt was on the tight side but I'm running a regular belt. Genuinely just now learned that green belts aren't just for looks lol

Appreciate it!
 

01yellercobra

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If you want a good belt for a blower set up, look for the RPM belt. They're a little extra sticky and don't stretch. It's actually advised to run them looser so they don't break.

Something a lot of people don't realize is the green belts are designed to run for 100k+ miles in fleet vehicles. So they're hard, don't flex as much, and aren't as sticky. You'd be better off keeping the belt you have now. I've been running standard belts with my Whipple and it's never slipped.
 

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01yellercobra

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I was one point looking RPM belts, but they are discontinued and they have issues:
Was it all of them or just the 6 rib? I don't know what length you need so I just did a quick search. I would still stick with the normal over the green belt.

 

venom1997

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I spray a little crc belt dressing on mine it softens and sticky’s up the rubber I still need to send my blower pulley off to grip tec for level 3 coating
 

01yellercobra

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It's still my opinion the normal belts with the proper tensioner are better for these set ups. But then I've also seen the results of over tightened belts on front main bearings.
 

Serfma

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Steel tensioner on, stock pulley that came on it got deleted. Yep, my bad. Getting aluminum/billet idler + tensioner pulley on. Cracked the housing on the rear. Sending to a buddy and praying he can weld it.

Editing to add that I believe the belt to be a bit too short causing an additional issue of the arm hitting the stop under load. Thoughts?
 

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venom1997

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Steel tensioner on, stock pulley that came on it got deleted. Yep, my bad. Getting aluminum/billet idler + tensioner pulley on. Cracked the housing on the rear. Sending to a buddy and praying he can weld it.

Editing to add that I believe the belt to be a bit too short causing an additional issue of the arm hitting the stop under load. Thoughts?

When the belt is on and you loosen the tension all the way how easy is it to slip the belt on and off the blower pulley? It shouldn’t be easy or lots of slack it should barely slip over
 

Serfma

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When the belt is on and you loosen the tension all the way how easy is it to slip the belt on and off the blower pulley? It shouldn’t be easy or lots of slack it should barely slip over
Yeah so I can take that belt off by hand, heh. A buddy has welded a steel plate on the rear of the tensioner housing around the radius to repair the crack and has CNC'd two aluminum pullies for me. Idler + tensioner pulley. Pretty hyped about things.

I believe he's also going to be making a bracket for a third pulley to fit in place of around the alternator so I can wrap a belt around it or have something to tension up against the outside of the belt as it's about a whole 1' run of belt. Unsure if it's due to the nature of a stock belt and if an RPM belt will prevent so much stretch, or if I just need to get an extra pulley in the mix.
 

venom1997

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Yeah so I can take that belt off by hand, heh. A buddy has welded a steel plate on the rear of the tensioner housing around the radius to repair the crack and has CNC'd two aluminum pullies for me. Idler + tensioner pulley. Pretty hyped about things.

I believe he's also going to be making a bracket for a third pulley to fit in place of around the alternator so I can wrap a belt around it or have something to tension up against the outside of the belt as it's about a whole 1' run of belt. Unsure if it's due to the nature of a stock belt and if an RPM belt will prevent so much stretch, or if I just need to get an extra pulley in the mix.
I run a green belt and a 2.25 upper 6.5 lower spinning the blower to 21k rpm never had an issue if you are having belt slip with a pulley bigger than 2.25 something else is wrong
 

Serfma

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I run a green belt and a 2.25 upper 6.5 lower spinning the blower to 21k rpm never had an issue if you are having belt slip with a pulley bigger than 2.25 something else is wrong
I have an added 3" height to my blower pulley ;)
 

venom1997

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I have an added 3" height to my blower pulley ;)
That shouldn’t make a difference do you still have the eccentric idler that’s on the driver side? You can loosen the bolt and use a crescent wrench I believe it’s either 15/16 or 1 inch nut to add additional tension on the belt
 

venom1997

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Another thing you can do is with the kenne bell blower pulley is get a dremel and cut horizontal grooves across the 6 ribs about every 1/2 to 3/4 inch like the old reichard racing pullies also run to harbor freight and get a small hand held sand blaster and hit the ribbed area of the pully it will roughen up the surface pretty much eliminating slip I’m going to be cutting some grooves into my 2.25 pulley so far I have only sandblasted the pulley and get slight slip above 6500 rpm
 

venom1997

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Just did this at work with my 2.25 pulley added some rip cuts with die grinder and sandblasted the ribs super rough
 

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