Nemak Side Build- Come on In!

[NotSatisfied]

So I recently got burned pretty bad on Facebook Market on a Gen 1 Teksid. It was so corroded that it’s going to need a resleeve. I soaked the damaged cylinders in White Vingar for 24 hrs then did same in Evaporust. Still couldn’t turn the motor over. I eventually had to hammer the pistons back and forth and finally got it. I tried to hone them and clean them up. Nada. So I cleaned, oiled and wrapped to store it.

As you can see the cylinders are way too pitted to do anything with other than sleeve



Then I came across a mint Nemak out of an 05 Aviator for 700 shipped to my door

RF-3L2E-6015-CC

I have heard the whole Teksid is KING, the WAP Wagon etc. I have heard Nemak is not strong etc.

I want to hear from y’all.

I plan on Manley Crank, Molnar PA rods, Diamond Pistons, E85, 25-30#boost, camsand possibly ported heads. Maybe 1100 hp max.

What do y’all think? Bad choice in block?




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[phil a]

How’s that a bad choice? Splitting hairs but maybe a touch stronger than teksid. They’ll both handle what you’re trying to do.

 

[03' White Snake]

I agree with Phil. No worries at that level. Nearly any block will handle that. Do it.

If you are going for E85 full time, go 10.0 or higher CR. I’d even say 11.0 with flat top pistons. I went with -5.22 dished piston’s trying to get away still running 93 on occasion, if I knew I was limited to E85 only I would have gone flat top and higher CR.

 

[2003RedfireVert]

If you were closer I would sell you my teksid. If my terminator engine blows I’m going gen 2 Coyote and a TVS.

 

[NotSatisfied]

Seems like a lot of these block failures people mention are from over torquing studs…?


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[phil a]

Yes. Aluminum block and steel studs. Threads can pull out of the block. Lots of people have not used the 100/105(?)ftlbs per ARP recommendations and have gone 85/90 for that reason. Would be a bad way to ruin a good block after machine and bottom end assembly….

 

[Blkkbgt]

Seems like a lot of these block failures people mention are from over torquing studs…?


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I researched this issue a while back and from what I remember all those issues stemmed from guys using ARP 2000 studs and going to the recommended TQ spec.

One guy on yellow bullet cracked two blocks back to back. You can probably still find that thread.

I do not remember anyone having issues with the 8740 studs as the recommended TQ spec was lower.

As far as block choice I wouldn't bat and eye at running it around that power level.

Everyone swings on the Teksids nuts but to my understanding nobody has actually done a true apples to apples comparison between that block and the Nemak.

It's all speculation as to which one is truly stronger and until someone makes a true comparison that's what it will always be.

 

[phil a]

The safest option from my viewpoint is using ARP head studs at 85-90ftlbs
I’d use the 2000s given your goals
As much of a pain in the ass as it’d be, I’d use that initial torque, get it fired/heat cycled, then pull both cam covers and recheck torque on all the fasteners
Aluminum heads and now aluminum block - more expansion and once that HG crushes with a heat cycle, the studs may not have the same clamp load as they did initially

Pulling the cam covers is a huge pain in the ass, blower has to come off too, etc but if it was mine and I’d spent $$$ on parts/assembly, that’s the route I’d go

I think less concern if one piece (block/heads) was iron like stock…but with mid-20lb boost goals might be worth considering

 

[01yellercobra]

Wasn't there also something about not screwing the studs all the way in? Leaving a thread or two open on the bottom. I vaguely remember someone mentioning they dropped BB's into the holes to keep the studs from bottoming out. I guess the BB's were soft enough they would crush if needed.

As for the block itself any of those will hold all the power 99.9% of us will throw at it. Maybe when you start looking at 4 digit power levels it becomes a concern, but I imagine there are things you'll need to worry about before the block at that point.

FWIW, Darton makes a big bore sleeve that slides into the Teksid block.

 

[DCguy]

The Nemak block is an excellent choice and has been used successfully in many big hp builds. I am not sure on how brittle or soft the block material is compared to a Teksid, but I think we're splitting hairs here.

I really like the Nemak because it doesn't have freeze plugs all over it....think it only has a couple. That makes block prep easier and the chance for leaks is reduced by a good margin.

The Nemak also has really big beefy main caps compared to the Teksid. They are both 4 bolt mains, but i'm not sure on the side bolt differences. The Teksid is an 8mm side bolt I believe(?) because it uses jack screws......not sure if the Nemak is larger. If it uses 9mm or 10mm that's a huge upgrade/benefit when you're talking about 1000 hp setup.

 

[Bullitt1448]

Wasn't there also something about not screwing the studs all the way in? Leaving a thread or two open on the bottom. I vaguely remember someone mentioning they dropped BB's into the holes to keep the studs from bottoming out. I guess the BB's were soft enough they would crush if needed.

As for the block itself any of those will hold all the power 99.9% of us will throw at it. Maybe when you start looking at 4 digit power levels it becomes a concern, but I imagine there are things you'll need to worry about before the block at that point.

FWIW, Darton makes a big bore sleeve that slides into the Teksid block.

I just did headstuds in mine. ARP instructions say to bottom out the stud then back it off 1/4 turn.

 

[NotSatisfied]

Good ole UPS

Should I be worried about this? Like the integrity of the block? Would you run this engine or is it too risky?


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[DSG2003Mach1]

damn you have some rough luck

 

[NotSatisfied]

damn you have some rough luck

Chaos is my life. I grew up with it and it remains today. My wife asks why I’m so high strung lol

 

[Bullitt1448]

You could have that welded back on fairly easily. Just have to make sure the mating surface is flat and true when they are done