Need some input on this t56 rxt install (pivot ball/clutch arm position(‘g

Toast21

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Just started working on my car again after a long winter... anyway to where I left off...

I installed a new rxt clutch with the factory flywheel. I didn’t take any measurements of the stock clutch fork position which is where I messed up. I have nothing to reference off of and the McLeod instructions don’t really touch on this. Also searched and searched but couldn’t find a detailed answer. A lot of threads just mentioned pivot arm should be set so tob is parallel to the pp fingers.

I installed a shorter pivot ball to compensate for the taller rxt. I believe I had gone about 5mm shorter but I don’t remember as I did this before it got cold out.

This is currently how the pivot arm sits, I adjusted the cable so the TOB is BARELY touching the pressure plate, now my question is, does the geometry here look good or good enough? I press on the pedal and it goes to the floor without hitting anything which was my primary concern, as the arm is almost halfway through the bell housing opening when attached to the cable

The tob seems parallel to the PP in the resting position and I don’t feel any bind or difficulty when pressing clutch pedal. Really want to avoid removing and reinstalling trans if possible, but if it’s recommended I will. 1 man team and I hate working on my back!

Any help is greatly appreciated! I need to get this car running ASAP, miss bangin gears!


Pivot arm with cable attached and adjusted

48e996d034b17eb52b44ddfbe35ad986.jpg





Pivot arm with clutch pedal fully depressed
596c8cd31d138a67ec6b8794202e52df.jpg



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MG0h3

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Most people shorten it 5mm, but it can vary depending on flywheel.

Mine came with an RXT and stock pivot ball and personally I really liked it.

One thing you can run into is the fork hitting the face of the trans as the clutch wears out but this is more of an issue with the Magnum I believe.

My trans was clearances a little when I upgraded to the 1200. I clearanced it even a little more

If you’re buttoned up already I say run it!


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01yellercobra

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I'd say as long as you have some play to be able to move the fork towards the face of the trans with the cable disconnected you're good. The PO of my car didn't change the pivot ball and the fork was pushing against the trans hard enough that it popped the trans out when I removed the bolts. I didn't clearance anything on the case, but I did remove the weight on the fork.
 

Toast21

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I have plenty of space towards the face of the trans so I don’t think that should be a problem. When the clutch wears the fork is pushed toward the rear of the car? If that’s the case I feel a lot better running it as is. I was more concerned with the space left towards the front (towards flywheel) as I only had maybe an inch of travel left there after clutch was fully depressed.


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P49Y-CY

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When the clutch wears the fork is pushed toward the rear of the car? If that’s the case I feel a lot better running it as is.

yes, the fingers rise up out of the pressure plate as the friction material wears
 

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