Need help with WOT Issues....

4stang6

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Quitman,Tx
So I recently had my car tuned after I installed the KB 2.8H. And car seems to cut out now when I slap the throttle or do WOT pulls.
If If decide to do a 25 or 40 or whatever roll race and WOT , It will cut out for a second, then Take off like nobodies business.
If I ease into the car till I hit WOT , No issues whatsoever.
If I shift gears and again WOT, It'll cut out again..
When it cuts out, I notice the fuel pressure drops drastically to about 24 or even less psi, then immideatly jumps back up to about 40 and so on....
It's bugging the shit out of me and I have pretty much ran out of leads...
Now the person who tuned it , in my eyes is very very trust worthy, He's tuned ALL my cars, my friends, etc, and has NEVER let us down, i called him, and he has been doing everything he can to try and help, He even adjusted my tune a bit to try and help it , and it DID help ALOT. But still does it occasionally.He said what he adjust was basically the fuel pressure side of it, He increased the PSI by 5 psi at all times.
Now, Together we went over what it might be, and he has basically concluded that the fuel pumps could be weak, and need to replace them with much better pumps...
I pulled the tank down a week ago to delete the PPRV when I was first having the issue and found the pumps haven't had the screens on for who knows how long, I'm sure over 4 or 5 years EASY....Screens were just floating around...
So my tuner is thinking the pumps might be worn out and weak from years of trash going through them, just can't keep up every time with the immideate demand in fuel, and do end up catching up milliseconds later.......

I also to be sure rechecked the gap in the TR6s to eliminate any thoughts of blowout as well , so all is good there.

So heres a Quick rundown on my car.

Built Motor (factory compression)
Kenne Bell 2.8H @17lbs(581whp/566wtq @ 20Dg of timing on Pump 93)

80lb Injectors
Series 1 Ford GT pumps
KB BAP
PPRV Delete
(Stock returnless system)

SCT3000
JLT CAI
Accufab SBTB

Cars has other bolts exhaust wise, and cooling wise , But the list I typed above is probley the only info really needed to help solve the issue.

So quick little details I did to try and improve the issue,
Regapped Spark plugs.
Replaced fuel filter
PPRV delete
Swapped FRP Sensor
Checked all fuel lines for damage
Checks all wiring EVERYWHERE!
Checked all vacuum lines
Checked fluids
Filled fuel tank
List goes on and on....

And again, It only cuts out for a split second, and ONLY cuts out with you do an immediate WOT in ANY gear, At ANY rpm...
(Could be in 5th gear cruising at 1800rpms and slap it open and it cuts out, then takes off!
Or I could be in 2nd doing a 25mph Roll race at 4000rpm and it cuts out, Then takes off)

It WILL NOT cut out if I ease into WOT though.
It'll pull like a train and will not cutout.

I would also like to add, on my previous setup, ported Eaton making 15lbs , made 481/516 and it NEVER cut out, or even came close, car ran normal then, and also did it on the same fuel setup I have now, except for the injectors, I then had stock 39lbers.
But obviously I now have a biggggger blower demanding more fuel, Making more power..

What's y'alls opinions on the issue ???? Any possible leads would be great!!!
 

Steve Cea

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Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
203
Location
Pennsylvania
Let me ask you a question , I see your using a KB boost A Pump , are you using the Hobbs switch that came with that unit ?? If so disconnect it completely!!! And just splice the Hobbs switch wires together ! I had the same exact issue ,fuel pressure was dropping off the table on the Dyno causing bad hesitation and or bog !! I disconnected that switch , problem solved !! Car runs like a raped ape now !! Laying down all 600+ hp no problem !!!

Sent from my SM-G955U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

Slippery Nut

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Joined
Feb 21, 2016
Messages
107
Location
Newcastle, WA
So I recently had my car tuned after I installed the KB 2.8H. And car seems to cut out now when I slap the throttle or do WOT pulls.
If If decide to do a 25 or 40 or whatever roll race and WOT , It will cut out for a second, then Take off like nobodies business.
If I ease into the car till I hit WOT , No issues whatsoever.
If I shift gears and again WOT, It'll cut out again..
When it cuts out, I notice the fuel pressure drops drastically to about 24 or even less psi, then immideatly jumps back up to about 40 and so on....
It's bugging the shit out of me and I have pretty much ran out of leads...
Now the person who tuned it , in my eyes is very very trust worthy, He's tuned ALL my cars, my friends, etc, and has NEVER let us down, i called him, and he has been doing everything he can to try and help, He even adjusted my tune a bit to try and help it , and it DID help ALOT. But still does it occasionally.He said what he adjust was basically the fuel pressure side of it, He increased the PSI by 5 psi at all times.
Now, Together we went over what it might be, and he has basically concluded that the fuel pumps could be weak, and need to replace them with much better pumps...
I pulled the tank down a week ago to delete the PPRV when I was first having the issue and found the pumps haven't had the screens on for who knows how long, I'm sure over 4 or 5 years EASY....Screens were just floating around...
So my tuner is thinking the pumps might be worn out and weak from years of trash going through them, just can't keep up every time with the immideate demand in fuel, and do end up catching up milliseconds later.......

I also to be sure rechecked the gap in the TR6s to eliminate any thoughts of blowout as well , so all is good there.

So heres a Quick rundown on my car.

Built Motor (factory compression)
Kenne Bell 2.8H @17lbs(581whp/566wtq @ 20Dg of timing on Pump 93)

80lb Injectors
Series 1 Ford GT pumps
KB BAP
PPRV Delete
(Stock returnless system)

SCT3000
JLT CAI
Accufab SBTB

Cars has other bolts exhaust wise, and cooling wise , But the list I typed above is probley the only info really needed to help solve the issue.

So quick little details I did to try and improve the issue,
Regapped Spark plugs.
Replaced fuel filter
PPRV delete
Swapped FRP Sensor
Checked all fuel lines for damage
Checks all wiring EVERYWHERE!
Checked all vacuum lines
Checked fluids
Filled fuel tank
List goes on and on....

And again, It only cuts out for a split second, and ONLY cuts out with you do an immediate WOT in ANY gear, At ANY rpm...
(Could be in 5th gear cruising at 1800rpms and slap it open and it cuts out, then takes off!
Or I could be in 2nd doing a 25mph Roll race at 4000rpm and it cuts out, Then takes off)

It WILL NOT cut out if I ease into WOT though.
It'll pull like a train and will not cutout.

I would also like to add, on my previous setup, ported Eaton making 15lbs , made 481/516 and it NEVER cut out, or even came close, car ran normal then, and also did it on the same fuel setup I have now, except for the injectors, I then had stock 39lbers.
But obviously I now have a biggggger blower demanding more fuel, Making more power..

What's y'alls opinions on the issue ???? Any possible leads would be great!!!
I had a similar problem and solved it by closing the spark gap a little bit.

Sent from my XT1254 using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

4stang6

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2007
Messages
884
Location
Quitman,Tx
Let me ask you a question , I see your using a KB boost A Pump , are you using the Hobbs switch that came with that unit ?? If so disconnect it completely!!! And just splice the Hobbs switch wires together ! I had the same exact issue ,fuel pressure was dropping off the table on the Dyno causing bad hesitation and or bog !! I disconnected that switch , problem solved !! Car runs like a raped ape now !! Laying down all 600+ hp no problem !!!

Sent from my SM-G955U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

Yes, it has the dial on the switch set to 40%
If I disconnect it and splice the ends together, Will it affect the tune you think?
 

Steve Cea

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Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
203
Location
Pennsylvania
That's your problem I can almost guarantee it !! No it will not affect your tune at all but if your tuner backed off on some of the fuel settings he may want to kick it back up , just unplug the Hobbs switch and put a jumper between the wires and drive it !! I did nothing further after disconnecting my Hobbs switch ! Many people say not to use it with these cars !!!

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my92gt

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Messages
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fresno cali
Please don't tell me you went with a lethal performance PPRV delete? If so you might just have the ends on the "y" fitting crimped like I did years ago. I installed it on a Friday and drove 8hrs round trip the following Monday to tune the car was bogging by Tuesday. I dropped the tank and well just look at the pictures. Either way good luck and hope you figure it out.
5a9dd552.jpg

078cb6ca.jpg
 

4stang6

Active Member
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Joined
Jun 18, 2007
Messages
884
Location
Quitman,Tx
Please don't tell me you went with a lethal performance PPRV delete? If so you might just have the ends on the "y" fitting crimped like I did years ago. I installed it on a Friday and drove 8hrs round trip the following Monday to tune the car was bogging by Tuesday. I dropped the tank and well just look at the pictures. Either way good luck and hope you figure it out.
5a9dd552.jpg

078cb6ca.jpg
Damnit!!
No I actually just fabbed up a kit.
Not the prettiest, BUT has no possible chance of restriction, Just a submersible 5/16 line squeezed over some free flowing 3/8 fittings.
20170602_211336.jpg
 

01yellercobra

AKA slo984now
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If you set the BAP to 100% full time the voltage table will need some tweaking. I had to adjust mine when I installed the BAP with GT pumps. At first start up after a reset it would be way rich, but would learn. So the table needed to be adjusted for that first start up.

It really sounds like your pumps can't keep up anymore. Going from an Eaton to KB 2.8 taxes the pumps more.
 
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4stang6

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Messages
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Its kinda what it sounds like, And it is what my tuner also mentioned, I just wanted to see if their were any other possible leads before i had to spend an additional $1300.00 in a budget return style system.
 

cj428mach

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Considering you have enough fuel to support a wot run just not a sudden acceleration, id look at the tune. Also 20 degrees seems like a bit much on timing for 93.

In a returnless system there are fuel pressure multipliers that adjust injector pulsewidth to make up for changes in fuel pressure to maintain proper fueling.
 

4stang6

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Messages
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Very possible i thought too, I've had it out before when i was going through wiring when i was splicing for the BAP, and the module to me looked OEM, No aftermarket stickers or anything on it. Just the ford manufacter sticker. I wonder if that would make a difference in the issue not having the modified FPDM.
 

01yellercobra

AKA slo984now
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I ran a stock FPDM with GT pumps and a wire upgrade for years with no issue. Even after the BAP I didn't have any issues like you're having. Just my experience.
 

4stang6

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I ran a stock FPDM with GT pumps and a wire upgrade for years with no issue. Even after the BAP I didn't have any issues like you're having. Just my experience.
Thanks man.
Maybe 1 thing for myself to consider would be to upgrade the wiring to the bap.
 

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