NEED HELP PLEASE!

Vinnie_B

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Diagnostic Trouble Code: P1114 - Intake Air Temperature 2 (IAT2) Circuit Low Input

Description: Indicates the sensor signal is less than the self-test minimum. The IAT2 sensor minimum is 0.2 volt.


Possible Causes:
  • Grounded circuit in the harness
  • Improper harness connection
  • Damaged sensor
  • Damaged PCM

Diagnostic Aids:

Monitor IAT2 PID. Typical IAT2 temperature should be greater than IAT1

IAT PID 39

IAT2 PID 37


Lightning Fast⚡Electrical Automotive Repair LLC
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Remote or Local (On Site) Technical Repair
 

NotSatisfied

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SCT got my car running the stock file was corrupt

Any idea why I’m getting a P1114 code constantly View attachment 1743924

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Update. Intercooler pump wasn’t plugged in, I must have forgot to plug back in… anyways the charge temps were 190-200. Maybe that’s what threw the CEL. Anyways, I plugged it back in.

Stay tuned for more adventures
 

DSG2003Mach1

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Update. Intercooler pump wasn’t plugged in, I must have forgot to plug back in… anyways the charge temps were 190-200. Maybe that’s what threw the CEL. Anyways, I plugged it back in.

Stay tuned for more adventures
Was coming to say make sure the pump is running and fluid in the res, once it gets up to temp make sure it’s circulating in the tank. Sometimes people get an air bubble at the pump and it doesn’t prime
 

NotSatisfied

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Was coming to say make sure the pump is running and fluid in the res, once it gets up to temp make sure it’s circulating in the tank. Sometimes people get an air bubble at the pump and it doesn’t prime
Oh you know me- now stressed and paranoid lol.

Anyways, I seemed to have a small leak, not sure if it’s oil or coolant/water mixture. I did notice that that top hose is wallowed out at its end quiet a bit. The clamps are tight.

 

9397SVTs

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Oh you know me- now stressed and paranoid lol.

Anyways, I seemed to have a small leak, not sure if it’s oil or coolant/water mixture. I did notice that that top hose is wallowed out at its end quiet a bit. The clamps are tight.

Is there any way to reroute and/or use a different top hose?

It seems to be squished passing over the crossover tube and then again as it goes under the blower.

It could affect optimal cooling.
 

SVTdreamin04

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Man! Way to go OP! Good work! You got the best bunch of dudes to help you out too. Just another thread that proves this to be one of the best forums out there!

Reading this thread brought back memories of all the hard times my car gave me and the help of my fellow Cobra owners with any issues brought to them on the forum.


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NotSatisfied

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Is there any way to reroute and/or use a different top hose?

It seems to be squished passing over the crossover tube and then again as it goes under the blower.

It could affect optimal cooling.

IMG_3814.JPG


Pretty sure the Whipple blower snout is weeping oil. Unless there is a vent somewhere and it’s overfilled from previous owner.



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hotcobra03

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Is po1114 still popping up after plugging in pump,,

I recall getting this code ,
For me it was iat2 connection wasn't seated.
Clip doesn't hold mine,,used zip tie ..

I thought the pump has its own code when unplugged or pump dies, like a po2xx
 

NotSatisfied

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Is po1114 still popping up after plugging in pump,,

I recall getting this code ,
For me it was iat2 connection wasn't seated.
Clip doesn't hold mine,,used zip tie ..

I thought the pump has its own code when unplugged or pump dies, like a po2xx

Never got it back. The “MAP” connector, right?Fingers crossed!


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hotcobra03

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Never got it back. The “MAP” connector, right?Fingers crossed!


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On stock it's way back on drivers side intake ..under all that crap ..


I've ran mine without intercooler pump during leaks ,or waiting on new pump..

I seen 200 without issue for normal driving ,

These oem pumps are 50/50

I'm on my 4th now

They may have better opinions now like a brushless motor .
 

NotSatisfied

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On stock it's way back on drivers side intake ..under all that crap ..


I've ran mine without intercooler pump during leaks ,or waiting on new pump..

I seen 200 without issue for normal driving ,

These oem pumps are 50/50

I'm on my 4th now

They may have better opinions now like a brushless motor .

Ok that’s reassuring. Check my other post on the Whipple. Found the issue but I’m stumped.


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hotcobra03

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P1114 - Intake Air Temperature 2 Circuit Low InputIndicates the sensor signal is less than Self-Test minimum. The IAT2 sensor minimum is 0.2 volts.
  • Grounded circuit in harness
  • Improper harness connection
  • Damaged sensor
  • Damaged PCM
Monitor IAT2 PID. Typical IAT2 temperature should be greater than IAT1. Refer to Reference Values: Reference Values for ranges
 

NotSatisfied

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https://youtube.com/shorts/1vdN7NlWpOk?feature=share

Well it’s been a journey, car is back together again with some repairs, more maintenance and upgrades.

Cars got a return fuel system, I wish it would cold start better. Not sure what to do about that.

Things done:
New Whipple Snout and Seals
Laser Aligned the Pulley System
CE Crossover Delete
CE IC Adapter
Gords Fords SVT H/E
Dual Catch Can System
MGW Shifter
Borla Stinger exhaust
Amber Tail Light Install
New Headlights
MRT Hood Struts

Now going to Paint. Have an order in for BCForged MLE52. Will be swapping my Entire suspension to Maximum Motorsports. All Drag Racing TeamZ stuff is coming out. I got some other things I need to do to it but not a priority right now.



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DSG2003Mach1

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Well it’s been a journey, car is back together again with some repairs, more maintenance and upgrades.

Cars got a return fuel system, I wish it would cold start better. Not sure what to do about that.

Things done:
New Whipple Snout and Seals
Laser Aligned the Pulley System
CE Crossover Delete
CE IC Adapter
Gords Fords SVT H/E
Dual Catch Can System
MGW Shifter
Borla Stinger exhaust
Amber Tail Light Install
New Headlights
MRT Hood Struts

Now going to Paint. Have an order in for BCForged MLE52. Will be swapping my Entire suspension to Maximum Motorsports. All Drag Racing TeamZ stuff is coming out. I got some other things I need to do to it but not a priority right now.



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Since you’re only saying cold starts I assume you’re leaving the key forward a couple seconds to prime the fuel system? I usually key forward, put my seatbelt on then start it.

Otherwise it’s likely something in the tune that needs tweaking, especially if e85 and it’s cold outside
 

hotcobra03

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Something I noticed about these and starting .

Getting it to fire the second motor turns.

Mine has always had to crank a little ,nothing crazy,just not like all the other cars I've had .

But I did find ,the times I had to push start car. It fire the second motor turned. Thank God..

Makes me wonder if a direct remote button would change things.
 

NotSatisfied

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Something I noticed about these and starting .

Getting it to fire the second motor turns.

Mine has always had to crank a little ,nothing crazy,just not like all the other cars I've had .

But I did find ,the times I had to push start car. It fire the second motor turned. Thank God..

Makes me wonder if a direct remote button would change things.

:) What?


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NotSatisfied

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67289316412__151A3EEE-58BB-4B4B-8FDC-9FFDEDD1F199.JPG
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67289318950__114998C7-E152-4238-A8AA-5713652494AD.JPG


Progress, almost there.

Haven’t worked harder on a car than this one but it’s starting to pay off.

I don’t know what it is about the sun and yellow cars but they don’t get along, even the primer was cracked. Car will be done soon, need to make a decision on a painting the rear bumper lower trim gloss black or not.

Previous owner beat the shit out of the rear wheel wells to fit bigger tires, pinch welds underneath are all mangled. All that will be fixed.

Happy Friday


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