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01yellercobra

AKA slo984now
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The teksid (93-99), wap (01-04) and aluminator (05-10) blocks can all be stroked to 5.0L..bored to 5.0L..or bored and stroked to 5.3L. The heads would need to be deshrouded for the larger bore.

Those three blocks are interchangable...with a slight water pump difference on the wap block..

I don't know about the aluminator block, but the Teksid and WAP can't just be bored over to hit 5.0L. At the very least the liners need to be replaced. And then if it's not done correctly it'll ruin the block. As I learned with my first big bore Teksid. That's why they talk about the Darton set up for big bores.
 

shurur

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I don't know about the aluminator block, but the Teksid and WAP can't just be bored over to hit 5.0L. At the very least the liners need to be replaced. And then if it's not done correctly it'll ruin the block. As I learned with my first big bore Teksid. That's why they talk about the Darton set up for big bores.

I meant that the blocks would be relined or sleeved...the term "bored and stroked" is still used to describe the process though....all those blocks have been around for some time now. Most will do dry sleeving for NA..the only drawback may be whether you go with boost later.
Livernois actually claims that the wap block is the strongest of the three when it has been re-sleeved.
 
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sur_real1

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When I had my 99' EG Cobra, I was able to squeeze 316rwhp out of it. Mods weren't too extensive to make more power. Long tube headers, offroad xpipe, FR500 cat back, cut and ported intake manifold, JLT CAI, Intake manifold spacer, dyno tuned. Mated with 4.10 gears, she ripped. Best of luck with your build!
 

scottydsntknow

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Shit I have a $500 JY 1999 Continental engine in mine with a bellhousing adapter with just basic bolt ons and a real good tune. She rips. Probably 290 to the wheels? Feels faster than that. 7500 redline helps.
 

TommyB

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I hope this helps in some way, look up John kaase and what he did with a 5.4


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All great info guys. I did look into the coyote swap, and for my car it would be too much hassle. I will keep you posted as to bow this plays out.
Nice numbers on your cammed cobra, trx. I will be touching base with nasvt if i go that route!
 

scottydsntknow

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Well if you are going to swap engines anyway its not really any more hassle tbth... But it also isn't like a 4.6L isn't damn near as capable once you throw boost into the mix.
 

shurur

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All great info guys. I did look into the coyote swap, and for my car it would be too much hassle. I will keep you posted as to bow this plays out.
Nice numbers on your cammed cobra, trx. I will be touching base with nasvt if i go that route!

FYI: That recipe was graciously Approved nasvt. It is gleanings of the numerous and repeated questions he was being asked across multiple mustang forums.

I have a recipe for the B-head cobra motors as well.

Still For me..there is some confusion as to what RPM range the SRI comes in to play and is needed...most pointedly with the daily driver (< 7000 RPMs) cams that I listed. I think only a light port/polish is needed or even no port/polish at all at those OEM RPMs.

For example, trx has a SRI..that is what livened up his car and his cam choice..as he is spinning his >7000 RPM.

Also there are four intakes..the 1999 Cobra extrude honed (fixed) and OEM (unfixed..may still be some not recalled..)...the 2001 Cobra..and the 03-04 Mach 1...

If you talk to nasvt (Todd) and get this intake/cam/RPM subtley cleared up..please let me know please...THANKS
 

Dave.O

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The coyote swap is more expensive than most folks think.

You could do all the na mods I listed, and be at the coyote level with a 4.6...and the coyote essentially runs mid length headers oem.

The teksid (93-99), wap (01-04) and aluminator (05-10) blocks can all be stroked to 5.0L..bored to 5.0L..or bored and stroked to 5.3L. The heads would need to be deshrouded for the larger bore.

Those three blocks are interchangable...with a slight water pump difference on the wap block..

This. When I ran the #s on a coyote swap it was cheaper and easier to rebuild my 01 with ported heads / intake, higher compression and 98 cams. And it does require any wiring mods and requires only a new tune


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scottydsntknow

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Oh for me too... I can rebuild my heads at home for just the cost of parts, rods are $200, crank is free, pistons $500 and then misc parts another $500? No need to port C heads IMO but whatevs. BUT... for those who are going from scratch and don't have it all and can do their own labor it might be close.
 

BTSMUSTANG

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380 crank horsepower should be relatively easy to obtain. The last time I dyno'd my 99 cobra it was 321 hp and 319 tq at the wheels which is around 370ish at the crank. All I had on the engine were as followed, JLT Ram intake, BBK throttle body, mild porting on intake manifold, intake spacer, MAC long tube headers, pro chamber x pipe and mac catback and a custom tune.
 

Big JROD

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380 crank horsepower should be relatively easy to obtain. The last time I dyno'd my 99 cobra it was 321 hp and 319 tq at the wheels which is around 370ish at the crank. All I had on the engine were as followed, JLT Ram intake, BBK throttle body, mild porting on intake manifold, intake spacer, MAC long tube headers, pro chamber x pipe and mac catback and a custom tune.

How do you like the BBK throttle body? I’ve heard mixed reviews. Thanks!
 

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