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ST/RS Fords
Fiesta ST
My new ST! Oxford White 2015 content
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<blockquote data-quote="kevinatfms" data-source="post: 16246213" data-attributes="member: 39344"><p>Are you having issues with front, rear or both? And is this during daily driving?</p><p></p><p>No a different rotor isnt the answer(slots and drilling are useless if the rotor cant absorb and shed the heat fast enough). A rotor is just a large heat sink. The larger the heat sink the more heat it can absorb before going into thermal shock where the pads overheat and leave deposits on the rotors("warping"). </p><p></p><p>Ive never found one to last longer than another in the same sizing. You would need a larger heat sink(rotor) to help take the thermal load along with a pad that can resist overheating at the higher temps. </p><p></p><p>You can add cooling ducts by two methods, one force fed from the front bumper and one by deflectors. The front bumper method is more effective but can cost a whole lot more. The deflectors are less effective but are a bolt on item that can be reversed quite easily(one single bolt).</p><p></p><p>I plan on trying out my Boomba deflectors here shortly(track day) and will record the temps of the brakes, any fade and any boiling. If the brakes still have issues i may go to full ducting using the following thread....</p><p><a href="https://www.fiestast.net/threads/my-brake-ducts-build.2251/" target="_blank">My Brake Ducts Build</a></p><p></p><p>For the lower front splitter. Rivet into place then cut out square section of the front undergaurd.</p><p>[MEDIA=amazon]B000BPUTL4[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>3" brake ducting. Cut in half(this is a 12' piece). Connect one end from each front lip duct to each wheel.</p><p>[MEDIA=amazon]B004MEGXPQ[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>3" aluminum tube for backing plates to duct air to center of rotor and hub. Bolt into place and drill 3" hole for airflow.</p><p>[MEDIA=amazon]B006K8KG8W[/MEDIA]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="kevinatfms, post: 16246213, member: 39344"] Are you having issues with front, rear or both? And is this during daily driving? No a different rotor isnt the answer(slots and drilling are useless if the rotor cant absorb and shed the heat fast enough). A rotor is just a large heat sink. The larger the heat sink the more heat it can absorb before going into thermal shock where the pads overheat and leave deposits on the rotors("warping"). Ive never found one to last longer than another in the same sizing. You would need a larger heat sink(rotor) to help take the thermal load along with a pad that can resist overheating at the higher temps. You can add cooling ducts by two methods, one force fed from the front bumper and one by deflectors. The front bumper method is more effective but can cost a whole lot more. The deflectors are less effective but are a bolt on item that can be reversed quite easily(one single bolt). I plan on trying out my Boomba deflectors here shortly(track day) and will record the temps of the brakes, any fade and any boiling. If the brakes still have issues i may go to full ducting using the following thread.... [URL="https://www.fiestast.net/threads/my-brake-ducts-build.2251/"]My Brake Ducts Build[/URL] For the lower front splitter. Rivet into place then cut out square section of the front undergaurd. [MEDIA=amazon]B000BPUTL4[/MEDIA] 3" brake ducting. Cut in half(this is a 12' piece). Connect one end from each front lip duct to each wheel. [MEDIA=amazon]B004MEGXPQ[/MEDIA] 3" aluminum tube for backing plates to duct air to center of rotor and hub. Bolt into place and drill 3" hole for airflow. [MEDIA=amazon]B006K8KG8W[/MEDIA] [/QUOTE]
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