Have to be making more boost than that. I see 19lbs on a 3.3 upper with Stage 3 ported heads and custom cams. That Gen3R keeps making boost with Rpm and the max effort kit. It's a pretty wild thing to see.
Are you thinking it should be making more power at that boost level?Was this a mustang dyno by chance?…now that would be impresive.
Either way these appear to be SAE corrected numbers at 23 degrees based on your attachment so not much more room there timing-wise.
Next throw a 4lb lower in there…make 850+
Are you thinking it should be making more power at that boost level?
This does make me wonder if I should bump my timing a couple more degrees. But I can barely hook up as is.
I'm currently at 21 degrees on pump E85. I'm always curious what others are running. I guess I should dyno my car at some point to see what it does. I doubt I'll make numbers like the OP though.I think he's right on the money power wise....just curious if he was on a mustang dyno since those read a good bit lower.
With timing you want to keep bumping it one degree at a time until the increase in hp begins to diminish generally speaking......then once you find that number I typically back it off 2 degrees to keep things safe. For pump E85, 23-24 degrees is about the limit of the safe range........so 20-22 degrees is what i'd hover around if you want it a bit safer. Beyond that i'd put a flex fuel sensor kit on it to allow the car to make timing/fuel corrections based on ethanol content.
For the OP's purposes, he's pretty much out of timing so the next quest for power will be in boost........since he's already on a 2.8 i'd leave that alone and go to a 2lb or straight to a 4lb lower.......that would put this blower right in the sweet spot....24ish psi.
All that said there's always a give/take between timing/boost, but I tend to gravitate toward running less boost and more timing like the OP has for a generally less stressed, cooler running car......lower EGT's, less blower heat etc........some people go the other route but its more preference and dependent on what you're trying to do.
EDIT: from the video comments it sounds like this was indeed on a mustang dyno and run under simulated load. SAE corrected as well.......so these are pretty impressive numbers. This would be much closer to 800whp otherwise or more.
You're the man. Thanks a ton for all of your help!Beats the hell out of the Heaton! LOL
You built one heck of a Hot Rod! Enjoy
Yeah living in Indiana isn't conducive to year-round shenanigans. That's fine though, because I'd be going through tires that much quicker lmao!Nice setup, nice tune, and nice numbers. Congratulations. Sucks that you'll have to wait around 3 months to take it out for some regular fun.
Yep! On a Mustang Dyno. He said he could mess with the smoothing or something and make it show 777hp but I didn't want any inflation or BS. This dyno session was just pure curiosity and I needed to get another datalog for Kevin at the same time. Car wouldn't stay on the road in 3rd for a pull and broke loose at 5,500rpms in 4th gear. So after changing my britches, I called my buddy and strapped it down.Was this a mustang dyno by chance?…now that would be impresive.
Either way these appear to be SAE corrected numbers at 23 degrees based on your attachment so not much more room there timing-wise.
Next throw a 4lb lower in there…make 850+
What power do you think a Gen3R would make ported on a 2.8/6lb or 3.0/6lb setup? Same supporting mods OP has just with a ported blower and lower pulley...I think he's right on the money power wise....just curious if he was on a mustang dyno since those read a good bit lower.
With timing you want to keep bumping it one degree at a time until the increase in hp begins to diminish generally speaking......then once you find that number I typically back it off 2 degrees to keep things safe. For pump E85, 23-24 degrees is about the limit of the safe range........so 20-22 degrees is what i'd hover around if you want it a bit safer. Beyond that i'd put a flex fuel sensor kit on it to allow the car to make timing/fuel corrections based on ethanol content.
For the OP's purposes, he's pretty much out of timing so the next quest for power will be in boost........since he's already on a 2.8 i'd leave that alone and go to a 2lb or straight to a 4lb lower.......that would put this blower right in the sweet spot....24ish psi.
All that said there's always a give/take between timing/boost, but I tend to gravitate toward running less boost and more timing like the OP has for a generally less stressed, cooler running car......lower EGT's, less blower heat etc........some people go the other route but its more preference and dependent on what you're trying to do.
EDIT: from the video comments it sounds like this was indeed on a mustang dyno and run under simulated load. SAE corrected as well.......so these are pretty impressive numbers. This would be much closer to 800whp otherwise or more.
800+ for sure. Porting it usually adds a pound or two of boost, plus the 6lb lower will put your boost above 25psi. Stock internals? I'd be careful north of 850 on the stock bottom endWhat power do you think a Gen3R would make ported on a 2.8/6lb or 3.0/6lb setup? Same supporting mods OP has just with a ported blower and lower pulley...
Yeah, +800whp for sure. But I thought porting dropped boost? And I think 850-900whp is still "safe" for the internals. I've seen a few people making that power and their car is still kicking. You'd probably run into other issues before internals give way. Just make sure you have plenty of injector/fuel.800+ for sure. Porting it usually adds a pound or two of boost, plus the 6lb lower will put your boost above 25psi. Stock internals? I'd be careful north of 850 on the stock bottom end