My Battery Relocation Project (MANY PICS!)

[brian97cobra]

looks good man. congrats on the "professional" install. looks top notch, but i got to pick on you about one thing.... you got a nice cobra with a nice battery relocation why run an acid battery, especially a wal-mart one. i would recommend getting an optima or similar battery. acid batteries can still leak maint free or not and then will leave a nice mess in your trunk (ask me how i know).

 

[quick88lx]

looks good man. congrats on the "professional" install. looks top notch, but i got to pick on you about one thing.... you got a nice cobra with a nice battery relocation why run an acid battery, especially a wal-mart one. i would recommend getting an optima or similar battery. acid batteries can still leak maint free or not and then will leave a nice mess in your trunk (ask me how i know).

sooooooo..? how do you know?? loloke:

 

[stolher]

sub'n

 

[Demonio]

sub

 

[rthouck]

Why trunk mount the solenoid? Another aesthetic thing?

 

[DuffManRHA]

Why trunk mount the solenoid? Another aesthetic thing?

I think its so you don't have to run a constant hot wire through the car, both for safety and for voltage drop reasons. I've been looking into doing this in the future and from reading lots of installs it seems people do it for those reasons, but someone can correct me if I'm mistaken.

OP - did you have to get the J-bolts welded in or anything to make it legal at the track?

 

[shurur]

adding these to restore the original not-for-racing diagram link...and IMO the source of so many questions.

racing mods with shut-off switch added and necessary alternator wiring

related thread with diagrams:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/sn95-cobras-24/851492-battery-relocation.html

 

[jerry5]

adding these to restore the original not-for-racing diagram link...and IMO the source of so many questions.

racing mods with shut-off switch added and necessary alternator wiring

related thread with diagrams:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/sn95-cobras-24/851492-battery-relocation.html

I have a question- What is the purpose of the Remote Start Solenoid? I know this is probably a dumb question but is this used so that you can start the car by remote for outside the car?

 

[1raresnake]

TTT want to know what's up with the remote starter solenoid?

 

[shurur]

I think its so you don't have to run a constant hot wire through the car, both for safety and for voltage drop reasons. I've been looking into doing this in the future and from reading lots of installs it seems people do it for those reasons, but someone can correct me if I'm mistaken.

OP - did you have to get the J-bolts welded in or anything to make it legal at the track?

What DuffManRHA said...

 

[TinMan09]

subscribing for future mod so easy to find.

 

[04Mach1Blurr]

Is it necessary to have the relay in-line? Or can I just run the larger wires to the trunk where I will have my battery. And do I need to ground off the engine as well as into the trunk off the negative battery terminal?

 

[DHG4410]

Stupid question:

Any reason you can not run the positive and negative from the trunk to the factory positive and negative cables under the hood? Then you are utilizing all the factory wiring.
Thank You

 

[cobra187]

I just ordered everything needed from Ebay and Summit Racing. Hifi is too expensive for my taste. I got 30" for Stinger Pro Series 4 AWG for $44 on Ebay. Hifi wanted $158...a little rediculous if you ask me. I look forward to moving my battery to the trunk in a few weeks and making it look as clean as OPs setup. My battery box is powder coated wrinkle black instead.

 

[shurur]

I just ordered everything needed from Ebay and Summit Racing. Hifi is too expensive for my taste. I got 30" for Stinger Pro Series 4 AWG for $44 on Ebay. Hifi wanted $158...a little rediculous if you ask me. I look forward to moving my battery to the trunk in a few weeks and making it look as clean as OPs setup. My battery box is powder coated wrinkle black instead.

Yes making yourself an ad-hoc kit is the best pricewise.
A list of materials and your sources would be a great help after you are done!!

 

[shurur]

Any reason you can not run the positive and negative from the trunk to the factory positive and negative cables under the hood? Then you are utilizing all the factory wiring.
Thank You

That's what I was going to do (the non racing) and put terminal posts in front as well, (like the BMW has).
Summit sells them.

However....
I'm just a DD guy.
I just added the diagrams that were missing.


If you plan to race you need to pass inspection.
We need a racing electrical expert who knows the rules to answer some of these questions being posted.

 

[shurur]

Is it necessary to have the relay in-line? Or can I just run the larger wires to the trunk where I will have my battery. And do I need to ground off the engine as well as into the trunk off the negative battery terminal?

GND: some say you even need a ground run to the front others say no.

If you have good subframe connectors I don't see the need. Yes every ground needs a connection..."Common." Engine grounded to frame.
Battery grounded to frame/chassis. I do like the isea of bringing a ground cable from the battery all the way to the front though...and inside the car.

PWR: size of wire helps for voltage loss due to resistance, but no relay means you have a live wire running the length of the car, and should the insulation break, you have a direct short to chassis ground. It's up to you..unless you are planning to race, then you have to pass tech inspection.

edit: sorry you said relay not solenoid. I think the relay is required for the amps needed. I don't see any way around it.

 

[DHG4410]

That's what I was going to do (the non racing) and put terminal posts in front as well, (like the BMW has).
Summit sells them.

However....
I'm just a DD guy.
I just added the diagrams that were missing.


If you plan to race you need to pass inspection.
We need a racing electrical expert who knows the rules to answer some of these questions being posted.

Agree with you on the expert on the rules to answer some of these questions. I would like to relocate my battery but my car is mainly bolt-ons do I need the full race setup?
Thanks for the reply

 

[shurur]

Agree with you on the expert on the rules to answer some of these questions. I would like to relocate my battery but my car is mainly bolt-ons do I need the full race setup?
Thanks for the reply

If you are not racing, then the non race setup will be fine IMO. Anything else, you need to look up the rules for what you plan to run in.

 

[shurur]

Is it necessary to have the relay in-line? Or can I just run the larger wires to the trunk where I will have my battery. And do I need to ground off the engine as well as into the trunk off the negative battery terminal?

I found this for you....not sure I like it...because of current draw from ignition.

you might also be able to run (splice into) the wire that controls the starter solenoid to the remote solenoid, instead of the ignition line going to the remote solenoid. not sure about the current needed though...and what adding another current path will hurt..i.e. can the signal drive two starter signals?

***********************************
Reference to not for racing diagram with relay and Step 5 of original post:
This same starter solenoid signal mod was used by the original poster to modify the control signal to the relay instead of using the ignition signal for the relay..solenoid signal to starter was cut and run to the remote relay control (yellow wire to relay) but it only fed one thing still..the relay control input vice the starter solenoid control input...again current concerns as each solenoid draws current.

Then relay output forked to remote and starter solenoids (white wire from relay)..but 30A capable from the relay...fed by the battery itself. Now if the starter relay up front is 30A, then splitting the solenoid control signal (with 15A fuses on each leg) should be fine.

Edit: starter relay in fuse box is 30a bosch style. So signal driving fron solenoid should be able to drive rear solenoid as well. Rear relay in first not-for-racing diagram now seems redundant to me, as the start signal from the front fusebox relay can make both solenids.