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My Battery Relocation Project (MANY PICS!)

Discussion in 'How-To' started by mosconiac, Apr 11, 2006.

  1. mosconiac

    mosconiac Active Member Established Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
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    Location:
    Eastern Iowa
    Starting with the great information presented in this THREAD, I set out to do a battery relocation.

    Here's the stuff I bought (with vendor & approximate prices):
    • Taylor Battery Relocation Kit (Summit, TAY-48103, $121)
    • Summit Remote Starter Solenoid Kit (Summit, SUM-G1750, $20)
    • SWX Battery Terminal-Positive (Summit, SWX-BCPOS, $13)
    • SWX Battery Terminal-Negative (Summit, SWX-BCNEG, $13)
    • Streetwires 4AWG Ground Terminal (Summit, SWS-GT4, $12)
    • Streetwires 1/0AWG Ground Terminal (Summit, SWS-GT0, $16)
    • Streetwires 4AWG AFS Fuse Block (Summit, SWS-FH4AFS, $20)
    • Streetwires 4AWG AFS Fuse Block (Summit, SWS-FH4AFS, $20)
    • Streetwires AFS 125A Fuse (Summit, SWS-FH4AFS, $8)
    • Rubber Grommet Assortment (Summit, SUM-W5214, $10)
    • (4’) Stinger Pro Series 1/0 AWG Red Cable (Hifi, SPRO0R, $10)
    • (2’) Stinger Pro Series 1/0 AWG Black Cable (Hifi, SPRO0 , $5)
    • (30’) Stinger Pro Series 4 AWG Red Cable (Hifi, SPRO4R, $30)
    • (10’) Stinger Pro Series 8 AWG Red Cable (Hifi, SPRO8R , $5)
    • Stinger Pro Series 4 AWG Terminals (Hifi, S4PRG , $4)
    • Rubber Grommet Assortment (Summit, SUM-W5214, $7)
    • Assorted Screw & Fasteners
    • TOTAL: $320

    Hifi Sound Connection Website
    Summit Website

    I wired the system using the "Not for Racing" DIAGRAM as a starting point...with minor changes as indicated in the text below.

    Step#1: Mounting the box....
    The first step is to carefully select your box location in the trunk. I took about an hour to carefully map my location to make sure I would not penetrate the gas tank when drilling holes. This show shows where my threaded rod would be located.
    IMG_1916small.jpg
    This shots gives you some idea of where I located the rods, dimensionally. To attach the nut on the rod closest to the spare tire (a real SOB), I taped the nylock nut into a wrench and had my wife fish it up under the car until I could see it thru the hole. Then I threaded the rod into it.
    IMG_1921small.jpg
    You will note that I tucked the grounding point behind the box. I had to trim the trunk panel a smidge to fit around the 1/0AWG ground.
    IMG_2035small.jpg
    Here's the completed box installation. You can't quite see it, but I ran the vent tube thru the grommet just forward of the box.
    IMG_2216small.jpg

    Step#2: Removing OEM wires....
    I cut the OEM battery/starter harnesses away and reconnected the OEM ground cable to the new grounding point, which I mounted next to the power distribution box under the hood.
    IMG_1940small.jpg
    I cut and abandoned the starter cable in the loom...its impossible to remove it because it is taped to other conductors the length of the cable. This will now be a dead cable, so there is no concern with electrical safety.
    IMG_1961small.jpg
    This is the 4AWG ground terminal.
    IMG_1942small.jpg
    This is what the old battery location looks with the ground installed, but the new power wire yet to be installed.
    IMG_1944small.jpg

    Step#3: Running starter cable & mounting solenoid....
    I knew I wanted to mount the solenoid in the spare tire well...and I wanted to the ability to put the spare tire in for extended trips, so I ran the 1AWG starter cable around there. This let me use the IRS bracing on the other side of the trunk metal for support. The reason I used the Taylor 1AWG is it is *stiffer* than typical car audio cable so it could be trained to hug the under side of the car and not flop into the exhaust or other dangers.
    IMG_2193small.jpg

    I just followed the OEM fuel/gas vapor lines to the starter and used some "flame guard" near the mufflers for extra heat protection.
    IMG_2197small.jpg

    Step#4: Running charging cable & mounting fuses....
    I ran the 4AWG cable to the front of the vehicle as follows. The 8AWG cable coiled up there is for the future BAP installation.
    IMG_2232small.jpg
    Rear seat area.
    IMG_2231small.jpg
    Thru the kickpanel.
    IMG_2229small.jpg
    Thru the wheel well.
    IMG_2170small.jpg
    Final wheel well installation.
    IMG_2224small.jpg
    Here's the battery end 125A fuse installation (before I installed the 1/0 cable from the battery terminal to the solenoid).
    IMG_2191small.jpg
    Here's the other 125A fuse installation.
    IMG_2228small.jpg


    Step#5: Wiring starter relay & circuit....
    The yellow & white wires I ran above were for the starter circuit. This is where I diverged from the referenced diagram. I extended the existing starter solenoid circuit back to the relay to operate my own solenoid instead of tapping off the ignition. The OEM starter solenoid circuit is bundled with the OEM starter cable, so I just reused that section (to get to the starter) and spliced on my wires...you can find the OEM starter solenoid circuit at the power distribution box under the hood (white with red stripe wire). The yellow wire brings the "starter engage" signal back to the relay and the white wire takes it back to the OEM wire that leads to the starter.
    IMG_2263small.jpg

    Step#6: Don't be afraid to ask for some quality assistance....
    IMG_1898small.jpg

    Hope I didn't miss any obvious details.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2006
    White95 likes this.
  2. Pred_mech

    Pred_mech New Member Established Member

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    good write up man. Looks time consuming. lol.
     
  3. blackvenom77

    blackvenom77 killer cobra Established Member

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    Location:
    DFW, Texas
    Nice write up!
    Looks like you took your time and did a quality job. :thumbsup:
    Cute kid BTW.
     
  4. cobra12003

    cobra12003 New Member Established Member

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    Looked like very nice and long work!
    Is this just to put the weight of the battery into the rear?
     
  5. mosconiac

    mosconiac Active Member Established Member

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    Location:
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    That's pretty much it. It takes weight off the driver's front tire (which has the most of any tire on our car) and places it over the passenger rear tire (which has the least of any tire on our car). I also wanted to improve underhood aesthetics, too.
     
  6. cobra12003

    cobra12003 New Member Established Member

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    SOUTH JERSEY
    Heck, I am about 270 lbs I don;t know what would be easier losing 50 or moving the battery? Maybe both and I will really go faster!
    Someone could sell a HP modification book (diet)
    Again looks good!
     
  7. mosconiac

    mosconiac Active Member Established Member

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    Location:
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    Here's a few photos of how I ran the cable under the car...

    From out of the trunk and over the IRS...
    IMG_2196small.jpg

    Along the fuel line...with flame gaurd where it came close (within 3") to the muffler...
    IMG_2318small.jpg

    Up to the starter...with more flame gaurd for heat and physical protection...
    IMG_2320small.jpg
     
  8. devous1

    devous1 New Member Established Member

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    Location:
    Central Ohio
    Hopefully I can get some help with this. I have the thing wired using a Painless 3 relay set, and selenoid. I wired it like the schematic in this forum http://www.modularfords.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=92770 . However when I attempt to start it, I can hear the relay activate, I am getting power on the S side of the selenoid in the start position. If I jump the S and I posts it activates the selenoid on the starter. However I am unable to get the selenoid in the trunk to get power to the right side of the selenoid to power the starter. I have tried it with a light to make sure there wasn't a problem at the starter.

    I am just trying to get the thing to crank at this point not start. I have other issues to confront before I try to fire it up. I know it has no fuel pressure right now ( I did hotwire the fuel pump to get fuel pressure incase that was part of the problem). What other issues could there be, safety circuits etc. There has been alot done to the car since it last ran.

    Complete new fuel system, tank, rails, plumbing, pump, etc
    Vortech
    Brakes
    Rear End



    Either I have something wired wrong? Or there is a safety circuit involved. Also I did replace the selenoid to verify that.
     
  9. devous1

    devous1 New Member Established Member

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    One thing I think I have missed is a ground for the solenoid itself. Does anyone know if you ground the body of the solenoid or one of the posts?
     
  10. HandsomeRob

    HandsomeRob Active Member Established Member

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    Great write-up!! Looks like a pain in arse
     
  11. lodhammerdin

    lodhammerdin WHPLD03 Established Member

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    Can i pay you to come do mine please? Lol good job man, nice write up
     
  12. My96z

    My96z New Member Established Member

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    Beautiful job! Do you have to mount the relay system in the trunk as well? I though all you needed to do this was just a battery re-location kit.
     
  13. quikcobra

    quikcobra Active Member Established Member

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    I bought the kit and with a junction box ran the 2gauge back like you did. I didnt do all the starter solenoidand such. Now im thinking I should go threw it and possibly do it your way.
     
  14. red92

    red92 Never To Fast Established Member

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    Jax.
    is there a reason you ran the extra solenoid in the trunk? couldn't you just run the + from the Bat to the starter and another + to the fuse box?
     
  15. PSUCOBRA96

    PSUCOBRA96 Active Member Established Member

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    you gonna add a cut of switch? I am debating if I want to do one myself.
     
  16. SVT GT

    SVT GT New Member Established Member

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    Very nice set up!
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2010
  17. mustangcobra98

    mustangcobra98 Got Nitrous? Established Member

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    Great How to!!!! just used it to do mine! you saved me alot of time by putting together a parts list. Its greatly appreciated!
     
  18. quick88lx

    quick88lx Active Member Established Member

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    from massachusettes/ staioned in louisiana
    im bout to place my order for the stuff i need to do this! did you notice a difference at all driving or no?
     
  19. slow2002gt

    slow2002gt Detective Kia Established Member

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    I cannot figure out step 5 for the life of me and I want to do this myself, in my understanding he is using 2 solenoids? one mounted in the rear and the stock one mounted up front? he just connects them both together?
    Could use some help breaking it down barney style for me :D
     
  20. NateTermi

    NateTermi BF3- NateTermi (ps3) Established Member

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    That's a pretty expensive and time consuming project.
     

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