Good to hear! You have made some ground breaking progress here, keep it up.
Get some videos up. :beer:
Get some videos up. :beer:
Modifying inlet kenne bell project!
- Thread starter venom1997
- Start date
Getting ready for March when they open up the track got the car down to 3050lb still have about 100 lbs I can get rid of but probably sitting at 500 rwhp now should be interesting
I might run a 75 shot haven't really decided that should net 600
Update just got the 2.25 pulley in along with gates k061066 belt 14.5 psi thru long tubes 115* iat wot this thing is crazy now 27x10.5 qtp let loose in second gear pull
Didn't seem to slip I have over 1/4 inch gap on the stop on the tensioner so I'm thinking I can still use a smaller belt such as k061058hd green stripe
Spun the rollers 517 rwhp 490 rwtq 10.7-11 afr 14 psi previous before the mod back in 2010 410 rwhp 395 rwtq 11.5 afr 10 psi not bad for a little 1.5l and car weight 3050lb
Same 23* timing
Nice numbers! Bet that thing is a blast to drive!
It's pretty awesome now feels like it's floating on air I want to take it down to 2800 eventually need all the help I can get 5500 ft elevation out here I'm leaving it a little rich I may throw a 50 dry shot and get about 600 out of it and call it good plenty enough for mid 10s up here
That is damn good! That is a 100hp/tq increase across the board out of that 1.5. Getting a 2.1 and I dont think 600'ish would be hard to find at all. Congrats, again.
I would also like to see a "how to" write up on your mod, and made a sticky for future SN95 KB owners.
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I'm sure with a 2.1 or 2.2 I could surpass 600@ 18-20 psi if I could make a mold of my inlet and then cast them I'd do that it was pretty strait forward just a lot of cutting grinding porting and welding but it was a huge payoff!!!
Also with instructions on installing the bypass valve would be a welcomed addition
^do you have a kb?
As for the bypass valve I used a forge 007 type 30 bucks on eBay ( the ones the vortech use or like vw turbo applications I have the 8-20 psi spring in the housing. And drill and tap a 3/4 npt port about center of the lower intake and use a 90 degree elbow with 1 inch hose barb... Thread from underside and install fitting an tighten then I ran 1 inch heater hose up from under and through backside of engine into the bottom port on bypass valve.
Then the side port of bypass valve into another 3/4 npt 90 elbow 1 inch hose barb that get tapped into the inlet before screws.
Run vac boost source to the nipple on top of bypass valve
As for the bypass valve I used a forge 007 type 30 bucks on eBay ( the ones the vortech use or like vw turbo applications I have the 8-20 psi spring in the housing. And drill and tap a 3/4 npt port about center of the lower intake and use a 90 degree elbow with 1 inch hose barb... Thread from underside and install fitting an tighten then I ran 1 inch heater hose up from under and through backside of engine into the bottom port on bypass valve.
Then the side port of bypass valve into another 3/4 npt 90 elbow 1 inch hose barb that get tapped into the inlet before screws.
Run vac boost source to the nipple on top of bypass valve
I dont have a KB, but i recently sold my cobra. I plan on getting another SN95 soon and slap a KB 2.1 on it.
Doesnt seem to difficult. Instructions are straight forward
I know this is an old thread but I recently completed these same mods on my 2.1 and am experiencing a couple problems. At idle the 1" heater hoses for the bypass valve are getting pulled (collapsed) closed, as soon as you give the engine a little throttle the hoses go back to normal. The second problem I am finding is a knocking noise at idle coming from the supercharger since pulleying it up to 12 lbs. Any advice or solutions you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
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Yes more of a light tapping noise coming from the supercharger at idle, goes away when you vary the rpm a couple hundred. Started after I reinstalled my factory crank pulley and a new gates belt.
I took the bypass out today and the tapping noise went away, I believe the tapping noise is being generated by the vaccum that is collapsing the heater hose. If anyone has any first hand experience with anything I mentioned above please chime in.
Has anyone else here done these modifications or know someone who has? I really need help getting a few answers for the Bypass. Also noticed after adding my 465 lph walbro in tank pump that the fuel pump resistor located in the passenger fender is getting smoking hot, does anyone have experience with this or know a way to bypass the resistor? Any help that you can offer is greatly appreciated.
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