- Both Mustangs have Web Electric Sequential Turn Signal Harnesses installed.
- Video shows increased delay of Sequential Turn Signals by replacing OEM Flasher 3.3uF Capacitor with 4.7uF Capacitor.
RIGHT: 2004 Cobra has OEM Flasher with standard 3.3uF Cap = 28 flashes/20 seconds = 84 flashes/minute
LEFT: 2001 Bullitt has OEM Flasher modified with 4.7uF Cap = 20 flashes/20 seconds = 60 flashes/minute
Background:
Increasing the delay of the sequential turn signals on my 01’ Bullitt
I wanted to do this because the aftermarket Raxiom brand
modified delay doesn’t have the mounting slot on the housing,
and well, I also didn’t want to spend the $30 for the Raxiom part.
Of course by doing it myself, and screwing it up
a couple times, I made sure that it cost me about
3X as much as a purchased delay - lol.
This is the SVTP link to the guy who just added a 1uF Cap parallel to the 3.3uF Cap
in the circuit to make a 4.3uF Cap:
https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/how-to-slow-down-turn-signal-flash-rate.940119/
I wanted more of a delay and went a different route.
I bought a used Flasher from ebay for 12.99 (free shipping).
So, I removed the 3.3uF Cap and replaced it with a 4.7uF Cap.
The 4.7uF Cap is from Radio Shack (~ $2).
Yes, there are still Radio Shacks around… LOL:
To start, I heated up the yellow flasher housing with a hair dryer
and removed the inner Flasher module by pulling on the metal spade lugs
with a couple of hooks.
It worked pretty well, and I didn’t break/damage the housing tabs.
Heck, I didn’t even burn my hands or stab myself with the hooks.
There are 2 slots on both sides edges of the plastic plate (shown in the red circles).
That’s where you want to insert a small diameter
angled object to gently bend the top portion of the
plastic plate towards you.
See in this pic how its bent forward?
Once you get it bent forward, insert a small hook shaped pick (shown above) into the metal spade lugs and pull the Flasher out of the yellow Housing.
Heating-up the Housing with the hairdryer
really helps to soften it up, aiding with the Flasher module's removal.
Here’s the iron, solder w/resin, solder wick,
and solder sucker I used.
I would have taken pics of how I did it but, you know.
My recommendation is to watch a few vids of people
who actually know how to solder, then practice.
Pic of the OEM Cap. It's a 3.3uF.
I removed the 3.3uF, and replaced it with the
the 4.7uF Cap shown in this pic:
I’m not a solder professional, but I put a helmet on
and play one in my basement sometimes.
Red circles show the 2 joints I soldered.
Not quite up to IPC standards, but they’ll work. Less heat is better, don’t lift the pad!
Hope this gives you some info on what it takes to "Do It Yourself".
It ain't hard if I did it...
Good Luck!
- Video shows increased delay of Sequential Turn Signals by replacing OEM Flasher 3.3uF Capacitor with 4.7uF Capacitor.
RIGHT: 2004 Cobra has OEM Flasher with standard 3.3uF Cap = 28 flashes/20 seconds = 84 flashes/minute
LEFT: 2001 Bullitt has OEM Flasher modified with 4.7uF Cap = 20 flashes/20 seconds = 60 flashes/minute
Background:
Increasing the delay of the sequential turn signals on my 01’ Bullitt
I wanted to do this because the aftermarket Raxiom brand
modified delay doesn’t have the mounting slot on the housing,
and well, I also didn’t want to spend the $30 for the Raxiom part.
Of course by doing it myself, and screwing it up
a couple times, I made sure that it cost me about
3X as much as a purchased delay - lol.
This is the SVTP link to the guy who just added a 1uF Cap parallel to the 3.3uF Cap
in the circuit to make a 4.3uF Cap:
https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/how-to-slow-down-turn-signal-flash-rate.940119/
I wanted more of a delay and went a different route.
I bought a used Flasher from ebay for 12.99 (free shipping).
So, I removed the 3.3uF Cap and replaced it with a 4.7uF Cap.
The 4.7uF Cap is from Radio Shack (~ $2).
Yes, there are still Radio Shacks around… LOL:
To start, I heated up the yellow flasher housing with a hair dryer
and removed the inner Flasher module by pulling on the metal spade lugs
with a couple of hooks.
It worked pretty well, and I didn’t break/damage the housing tabs.
Heck, I didn’t even burn my hands or stab myself with the hooks.
There are 2 slots on both sides edges of the plastic plate (shown in the red circles).
That’s where you want to insert a small diameter
angled object to gently bend the top portion of the
plastic plate towards you.
See in this pic how its bent forward?
Once you get it bent forward, insert a small hook shaped pick (shown above) into the metal spade lugs and pull the Flasher out of the yellow Housing.
Heating-up the Housing with the hairdryer
really helps to soften it up, aiding with the Flasher module's removal.
Here’s the iron, solder w/resin, solder wick,
and solder sucker I used.
I would have taken pics of how I did it but, you know.
My recommendation is to watch a few vids of people
who actually know how to solder, then practice.
Pic of the OEM Cap. It's a 3.3uF.
I removed the 3.3uF, and replaced it with the
the 4.7uF Cap shown in this pic:
I’m not a solder professional, but I put a helmet on
and play one in my basement sometimes.
Red circles show the 2 joints I soldered.
Not quite up to IPC standards, but they’ll work. Less heat is better, don’t lift the pad!
Hope this gives you some info on what it takes to "Do It Yourself".
It ain't hard if I did it...
Good Luck!
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